Workbench for holding machines- Drill,sander and grinder

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Hsmith192

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Hi everyone!

I’ve made a workbench with some prebrought metal legs but finding that it is a little wobbly.

The bench is to hold a pillar drill, sander and possible wet stone grinder. (120kg in total)

Can anybody suggest or have an example of a machine style bench made from wood? Maybe one with a plywood top but softwood legs?

Hope I’ve made it easy to understand.
 
I think what you’re looking for isn’t so much a bench as what I call an assembly table I have two on castors But you can make them any shape and size you want of course.
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A picture would help.

Are they the pre-drilled 'dexxion' type of legs that are like giant meccano with loads of holes or something welded together?

Some diagonal braces along the front and sides / wooden triangles bolted on the front and sides would help stabilise it.

A low shelf (unless the sander and grinder are stowed there) Would add extra structure to the bench - If possible you could store heavy things there to add mass.

Depending on the building - can you attach it to a wall / to the floor / another large cupboard or bench?

Hope this helps.
 
The drop-down panel on the first photo is just to reduce its size when not needed it’s held up in place by a diagonal piece of 2 x 4 with a birds mouth at one end
 
Hi everyone- thanks for the suggestions. It’s a Clarke workbench legs- they are a little thin for the weight they need to hold.

I was thinking of upgrading it or changing it but was struggling to find a good way of doing it.
 

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Crossbracing. Add either stretcher across the back, or a full sheet of thin plywood. That should stop any racking (side to side movement). If it’s wobbling front-to back then add weight or fix it to a wall.

Those Clarke legs will be perfectly rigid in themselves, but the fixings are relatively close to the edge, so flexing is likely there.
 
Crossbracing. Add either stretcher across the back, or a full sheet of thin plywood. That should stop any racking (side to side movement). If it’s wobbling front-to back then add weight or fix it to a wall.

Those Clarke legs will be perfectly rigid in themselves, but the fixings are relatively close to the edge, so flexing is likely there.


Thank you so much- I’m going to try the cross bracing and hopefully that will help.

It’s moving a little left and right. So I’ll try that and see how I get on. I was thinking of this new structure if not out of maybe some redwood?
 

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Thank you so much- I’m going to try the cross bracing and hopefully that will help.

It’s moving a little left and right. So I’ll try that and see how I get on. I was thinking of this new structure if not out of maybe some redwood?

I made one simalar to this 4"posts 4x2" rails top and bottom.

I made top 28" top and 20" shelf.

Cheers James
 
Your local fabricators can weld up box section quickly and quite cheaply, it’s not for everyone, but so far as stiff and strong goes it’s the Gucci option
 
Crossbracing. Add either stretcher across the back, or a full sheet of thin plywood. That should stop any racking (side to side movement). If it’s wobbling front-to back then add weight or fix it to a wall.

Those Clarke legs will be perfectly rigid in themselves, but the fixings are relatively close to the edge, so flexing is likely there.

I agree with Dave. It would be a shame not to use them as they look robust in themselves. Try screwing a sheet of ply across the back
 
Thank you so much- I’m going to try the cross bracing and hopefully that will help.

It’s moving a little left and right. So I’ll try that and see how I get on. I was thinking of this new structure if not out of maybe some redwood?

I made a frame similar to the one you show to support a 3m long piece of kitchen worktop using 3x2 and lap joints.
It has an intermediate shelf using 18mm flooring chipboard offcuts. Seems plenty strong enough.
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