Workbench Design

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First coat of shellac on. I can't tell to be honest. Ho hum.

I've only done the visible parts, seemed pointless doing the insides.

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Just a quick update. The total cost of the bench is currently standing at £269, I just have to add the cost of the abrasives/finishing.

However, in order to make the bench I also had to buy some new kit, so I've also spent £135 on a track saw and extra track, £26 on a router bit for the grooves and £18 for a 1/4" collet, and I still need a bit to do the holes in the surface, which will probably be another £40-£50 by the look of it.

Pretty good value all things considered though I think.
 
Avon wanted about £70+VAT for the purple cos they were getting rid of the stock, and yeah 19mm indeed. Usually about £10 more I think?
The list price is now GBP 112+Vat though you can get a bit off that. I have a sheet of the orange to make some MFT tops (with the Part guide 2). It's not cheap stuff and not that common (in the SE anyway!) so had to be ordered in especially...
 
Just a quick update. The total cost of the bench is currently standing at £269, I just have to add the cost of the abrasives/finishing.

However, in order to make the bench I also had to buy some new kit, so I've also spent £135 on a track saw and extra track, £26 on a router bit for the grooves and £18 for a 1/4" collet, and I still need a bit to do the holes in the surface, which will probably be another £40-£50 by the look of it.

Pretty good value all things considered though I think.
New toys tools are never counted toward a project cost!

I'll have to see what needs adapting to make my router/outfeed solution.
 
OK so today I cut the Valchromat to almost finished size, it's currently 1205mm wide but I'm leaving it for the time being until I've had a full proper test fit, I can always skim it off with the track saw.

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The mitre seems OK on a rough test.

The front panel has also been cut to size, I'm not sure on which method I should use to fit it all together quite yet. Glueing the two valchomat panels together is one, which means they'll be joined at 90 degrees independently of the base. Downside is that I know I won't get it exactly on 90 degrees so is there any point?

Second method would be to put the side panel on first, because then I can trim it and match up the top panel which is easier to do if the vertical one is glued in place. Only problem with that is that if the join isn't 90 degrees there's no way to adjust it.

Third is the reverse, so the top panel first, and then put the bench on its side and fit the vertical one. The benefit with this is that the top has a lot of planes where it sits on the frame, and if I glue it on first, I can tinker with the side panel (only a quarter of it touches the frame) to get it exactly 90 degrees. This seems to be my preferred option right now.

Mulling over what to do about the MFT aspect, I think I'll just scrap my 100mm spacing idea and use the Parf guide system despite the cost, because it gives me the comfort of doing it right. Probably.
 
Top glued on. Used my router for the first time today and miraculously didn't make a mess of it. Who said they're noisy things btw, mine's as quiet as a mouse!

Now saying I didn't make a mess of it I *almost* did because I set the fence up (used the rear of my saw track) then forgot that I had to allow for the base of the router :LOL:

Adjusted, got the track clamped on, checked with my straight edge. All seems good.
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Results are perfect.

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This post has gone through a quality control inspection.

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Top glued on. Used my router for the first time today and miraculously didn't make a mess of it. Who said they're noisy things btw, mine's as quiet as a mouse!

Now saying I didn't make a mess of it I *almost* did because I set the fence up (used the rear of my saw track) then forgot that I had to allow for the base of the router :LOL:

Adjusted, got the track clamped on, checked with my straight edge. All seems good.
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Results are perfect.

View attachment 99140View attachment 99141

This post has gone through a quality control inspection.

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Must have been a butt clenching moment ripping, then routing that expensive top Bill, especially given the aggro you went through getting it delivered! Looking great (y)
 
Must have been a butt clenching moment ripping, then routing that expensive top Bill, especially given the aggro you went through getting it delivered! Looking great (y)

Yeah a few test pieces got used before I let loose with the router! The mitre looks a bit out of sorts, been though it looked 45 degrees it doesn't seem to fit well at all when I'm loose fitting, I'm going to dry clamp it up after Xmas and see how it really looks.
 
So being Xmas day I treated myself to the Park MkII system, give me something to do over the new year weekend. Also ordered the router plate for my router table so that's everything I need to finish this and my other project just in the nick of time for 2021 (well, a few days late but...).

Between now and then my only task is to fit that front panel, trying to work out the best way to achieve it which I think I've figured out now.

It seems like it's taken me forever to build this but in actual work hours it's probably not bad at all, I had to glue it up really slowly because of a lack of clamps, then I spent a good while waiting for materials to arrive. The track saw definitely sped things up, a table saw would have made this a complete breeze and certainly improved the accuracy, something to which I paid some attention but perhaps not enough.

However all things considered at the end of the day: -
1. it's stable and level
2. it's robust and sturdy
3. it's more than adequate for my needs

Perhaps once it's finished I'll look to making some storage units for the shelf underneath, perhaps a few drawers that can be opened from the front, and then use the space on top of them to access stuff from the sides, or dump stuff there.
 
OK more progress, in fact the construction elements are now, finally, done!

Put the bench on and end to fit the side panel as this gave me leeway to adjust in the two directions most likely to be an issue.

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Yes I know I need more clamps.

End results - it's square to the top. The groove (which I know is straight) is the same distance from the top, using the ruler on my square, consistently along the length to within 0.5mm. This means I can use it as the starting point for the MFT holes.

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So the one "problem" is there's a pretty obvious mitre gap - I saw problem because I suppose really it's aesthetic since what's more important is being square and true. I can always fill a gap in. I've struggled with trying to get the track saw to do a 45 degree cut consistently but maybe this is vengeance for buying a cheap one.

I'm sure there's some pretty obvious things I could do to make the joint better (apart from being at 45) since the placement of both pieces counts too, maybe the top is too far back/forward?

All things considered, I'm still happy with it. I have a lot of scraps to fill in those gaps, maybe I should round the edges slightly, I think Dennis from HoW rounded his.
 
Just needs some holes now!

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I used a slither of valchromat from one of the mitred cutoffs to fill in the gap at the front, and taped it up to dry. I'll sand it down in the next few days. Now I can also do the grooves on the router bench so they align with the workbench as best possible.

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Is there any reason why most woodworkers benches are open underneath?

Asking as I'm planning for a workshop build next year and don't want to waste valuable storage space.
 
I have plastic crates under mine - one for screws another for nails and another for bolts/nuts.

On my other bench I have one for drills another for saws and another for sander / router.

Makes it sound grander than it is!!

Cheers James
 
Is there any reason why most woodworkers benches are open underneath?

Asking as I'm planning for a workshop build next year and don't want to waste valuable storage space.

It'll be used for boxes and crates, either that or I'll make some drawers. I just like the flexibility and so far I haven't really found much need for drawers as I'm putting tools on the wall.
 
Is there any reason why most woodworkers benches are open underneath?

Asking as I'm planning for a workshop build next year and don't want to waste valuable storage space.

If I have anything underneath it just fills with shavings and dust, I try to clear as much up every night to lessen any fire hazard.
Sometimes an awkward shape can be clamped to the front much easier if the space under the bench is clear.

As Bill is doing, boxes or crates IMO is better than drawers as they can be pulled out.
 
Is there any reason why most woodworkers benches are open underneath?

Asking as I'm planning for a workshop build next year and don't want to waste valuable storage space.

That's a great question! And I keep meaning to start a thread addressing exactly this point.

IMO turning a bench from this,

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Into this,

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Adds hugely to its practicality.

Besides the obvious advantages of having your tools right at hand, you also then have a useful shelf where you can park tools or components that are in use,

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Add in a removable tray system at the back of the bench and you've got the most efficient working environment that I know of, at least for cabinet makers like myself.

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Removable trays also allow clamping from the back,

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Anyhow, I could bang on for hours about these and many other elements of practical bench design and workshop layout...but to be honest I'm so busy actually building furniture that I never seem to find the time!
 

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Anyhow, I could bang on for hours about these and many other elements of practical bench design and workshop layout...but to be honest I'm so busy actually building furniture that I never seem to find the time!

We all love a bit of practical workshop stuff Mr Custard

Tom
 
Hey Custard I imagined you to be a woodworking wizzard in an old barn!!

Only to find a clinical workshop with breeze block walls!! Lol

Cheers James
 

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