WOODEN SHUTE PLANE wip

[tobytools]

I'm a previous thread I did a ukw member AndyT shared some very useful and interesting information about Shute planes that I rather liked.

Here is the thread:
big-woodie-iron-t80297.html

After juggling the idea in my head for a day or so I decided to do another custom job on a woodie.
I'm still not finished but I though I would share where I'm at so far

Tho the tote is very different to the ones shown by AndyT in his reference I wanted to go with this look, a bit like the stanly version. When I did try it out, I held it as if shooting with a mitre plane. the tote looks fancy .

I want to add a bit more weight so I will at some stage drill a hole in the front and drop a cylinder steel blank into it then put a wood patch over it.

Any ideas to improve look, efficiency anything please let me know.

If I've missed something I'm sorry it's gone 1
Zzzzzzzzzzz
Thanks.
TT

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I don't know about your plane being at an almost perfect right angle - but your pictures are.

 

[RogerP]

^^^^ I've got neck ache looking at 'em. :shock:

 

[AndyT]

Hmm... It will be interesting to see how well this plane works in practice. Just armchair theorising for a moment, why were the old shuteing planes not like this?
I think it's because you only have one hand to hold the plane - the other one is holding the work. So you need to push forwards while pulling the plane sideways tight to the work. The smaller pattern of tote lets you push using the web of your hand while curling the fingers round the body of the plane to pull it sideways.
On yours, you get the sideways pull by twisting your wrist, which could be painful after a while.
But I could be wrong; or you could build a sled which holds the plane in a groove, like the Stanley one.

 

[Carl P]

In the catalogue the handle is quite far forward, possibly nearly level with the mouth which I'm sure would affect that aswell - I'd really love to see some photos or proper plans of the original!

I'm tempted to try and make an adjustable handle to see how it would work - but obviously I'd never get round to it, mind you I do have a couple of jacks in the too good to cannibalise/not good enough for ebay category.

Nice work though Toby. By the way I'm going to post some photo's inspired by your change of signature later on - LOL, I nearly cried!

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[Jacob]

Having the handle on top of a shooting plane (why the funny spelling "shute"?) is basically impractical as the action requires you to push the plane in towards the shooting board, as well as forwards. An ordinary non specialist plane would do this better (and is what almost everybody uses for the purpose).
Compromise would be to have the handle at 45º?

 

[MIGNAL]

This is the method that I use to join thin bookmatched sawn veneers. The technique frequently calls for transferring weight to a different part of the plane as the stroke starts and completes. Not dissimilar to edge planing a board when held in a vice.
So at the start of the Plane stroke all the 'weight' will be towards the front of the Plane. When nearing the far end of the joint I often use my right elbow to place the 'weight' at the back of the Plane, the right hand still providing the momentum. I don't use a handle at all, I'm fairly certain that if I used a handle I would want it positioning in line with the mouth of even slightly forward of it.

Actually I think better still would be a 'corner handle' (whatever they are called) that fits on the junction between top and side cheek of the Plane. I guess that's Jacob's 45 degrees. The position would still be nearer towards the mouth of the Plane. Doesn't need to be a handle proper, something like 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 5 " with rounded edges.

 

[AndyT]

why the funny spelling "shute"?

Because I was referring to the Preston catalogue, as in the thread Toby linked to in his original post. Here is the image again

 

[tobytools]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/dogtjd3fb2fp3 ... .36.43.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bx29wijdsvopv ... .02.03.jpg

Just some clearer pics, recently learn to post pics myself, so bare with me.

Thanks for your comments, now thinking about it I would chamfer the outer edge and insert the tote there (45 degrees)
We live and learn.
The reason for the positioning of the tote was because too far forwards and my mortice would damage the inside if the cheek and render the plane useless, if I put it even further forwards at the toe then I would be pulling the plane and that's no good either.
My purpose for the thread was just for fun and to experiment really, like Andy I'm interested to see if it works, I personally believe it will, I how have the added weight ready to be put into the toe of the plane to increase it's weight and hopefully so it keeps a streaky course (tote to far away for total control)
The weight will be positioned on the inner side of the plane closest to the original sole (so it's closet to fence) vertically through the toe. Hope that makes sence.

Andy thanks for clearing up the reason I used the word Shute, again thanks for the image.

I'm just spitballing here but if I built a specific shooting board for it and make it run along a toung or several it would never go astray, grooves would have to me put into the plane. This would elliminate the new to pull it to the fence as it will be perfectly parallel to it by the skates (t&g)

What you think have I lost the plot yet.

Cheers TT

 

[t8hants]

Having no knowledge on the subject what so ever, but as I understand it the idea is to apply pressure downwards, forwards, and sideways all at the same time. So what is the reason the handle is not fixed on the diagonal corner of the body of the plane?

 

[MIGNAL]

No idea but No.s 380 in the AndyT book will function fine. The pad of the right hand will contact the top surface of the Plane and provide the sideways force required for shooting, or shuteing. The handle in relation to the Planes mouth certainly appears to be in the obvious position.

 

[bugbear]

No idea but No.s 380 in the AndyT book will function fine. The pad of the right hand will contact the top surface of the Plane and provide the sideways force required for shooting, or shuteing. The handle in relation to the Planes mouth certainly appears to be in the obvious position.

Even the Stanley #51 has a diagonal tote, although it runs in a "fully captive" mode.

BugBear

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Even the Stanley #51 has a diagonal tote, although it runs in a "fully captive" mode.

Adding a side fence is the only way you will make the shooter run true.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[David C]

I think this is because the handle is rather far back from the blade.

One holds a regular bench plane near the blade.

The illustration above has handle near blade.

09 with hot dog is held near the blade.

I think with the 51, function has been sacrificed for comfort. Hence the need for the extra fence.

David Charlesworth

 

[AndyT]

Well here's a thing to upset any sensible thoughts about needing the handle near the front... Looking in vain for a Marples 5 1/4 I spotted this in the 1938 catalogue - a Marples "Shuteing Plane" with the handle (designed to fit the web of the hand) behind the mouth, near the back. It looks as if it's fitted at a slight angle too, not parallel to the body, which I expect made it a more natural fit to the hand.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

It would have made it slightly easier to hold against the work as well, I suspect.