Wooden mitre plane sold on ebay

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Mr_P

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Not seen one of these for sale on ebay before but then again I haven't been looking for one.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-wood- ... fresh=true

£225 sounds a lot for a woodie but when you consider how rare it is, maybe not.

Fancied it for myself for reverse engineering purposes after messing up my first attempt at a woodie recently (wise words from D_W after the event on one of his videos "Don't put the float all the way through or you will blow the mouth") but when the price shot past £50 common sense prevailed and I realised there were more than enough pictures on the net especially Bill Carters site not to need one in the flesh to copy and besides I've enough projects on the go.


A few links for anyone interested in having a go:
http://berinsblog.blogspot.co.uk/2012/1 ... plane.html

I think I spotted these pictures pinned up in Berins blog
https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/sto ... 0c.%201800

Bill Carters site
http://www.billcarterwoodworkingplanemaker.co.uk/8.html

Richard Arnold made one from the an old woody
new-mitre-plane-show-off-yours-too-t77164.html
mitre-plane-restoration-t74156.html

Krenov style don't usually do it for me but Klaus made an absolute stunner for shooting in the above thread.
 
Beautiful example though, nice honest condition, and judging from the name stamps it has likely been kept in the same family for at least two generations.
 
If you are looking for plans, I have a pictorial on my website of building a strike block plane. This is bevel down at 37 degrees.

BuildingaStrikeBlockPlane_html_71a1e942.jpg


Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... Plane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
It's funny. Just yesterday a German woodworker named Alexander showed his brand new creation of a wooden mitre plane on the German forum. He managed it to realize a skew edged plane by using a rectangular shaped iron. Not that easy. The plane is loaded up with about 2 kilos of lead. The total weight with the steel sole n'all is about 4,100 grams.

68556_7.jpg


68556_8.jpg


68556_4.jpg


68556_1.jpg


Though being a hobby woodworker he managed it to do the build within 7 (!) days what I can witness since he was kind enough to keep me updated with build pics.

Klaus
 
Klaus Kretschmar":31q66dk5 said:

Very Nice, Klaus. Somehow, I expected when I saw you posted to this thread, that the plane would be a little lighter in color!!

There are some familiar elements to that one, but the steel is new!
 
Yes David, there are some familiar elements indeed. Alexander wanted to go with a steel sole however. His shooting board has a nylon runway and he tells that his steel soled plane is gliding rather good. The sole is removable though.

Klaus
 
If you are looking for plans, I have a pictorial on my website of building a strike block plane. This is bevel down at 37 degrees.

BuildingaStrikeBlockPlane_html_71a1e942.jpg


Link: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTo ... Plane.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, have you had a chance to gather thoughts about edge holding?

I have enough japanese planes that I was thinking about building a strike block plane 40 or 42 (japanese planes are always a contest to get some clearance and still avoid chipout without adding a back bevel).

I have a half dozen or so of those kenyon irons and use one in a jack, it's quite nice, but that jack is common pitch and doing coarse work, so it's hard to tell too much. Every decent iron seems like a winner in a jack plane.
 
Hi David

I built this strike block plane along with a few other planes (jointer, coffin smoother, router planes) for a demonstration of plane building at a LN Tool Event a couple of years ago. I don't run it that much in my workshop as I have a #51/52 as my go-to. The strike block plane has had several good runs at a couple of wood shows, including one where it was used over the course of a morning by another demonstrator. Overall, it really has held up extremely well on these occasions.

However, my experience has been variable with the Kenyon blades I (and you) purchased on eBay. Some were too soft, a couple were too brittle. This one appears to be just right (sounds like Goldilocks and the Three Bears :) ).

The bed angle was a good choice. It is essentially the same as a LA Jack with a 12 degree bed and a 25 degree bevel. I doubt whether you would gain much by adding a degree or two. That is not a significant difference. I can compare the effect with a HNT Gordon Trying Plane, which has a 60 degree bed and 30 degree bevel. The strike block plane is a much smoother worker, and leaves a finer finish. The finer finish is important when sizing drawer fronts.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
Thanks, Derek. I may be a bit of a chicken to build one bevel down for fear of bedding a bum iron.

Which leads me to question everyone else - does anyone have an example like the one in the first post where they could post pictures of one side, the bottom, the top and in the mortise so I could scale them and make a copy?

I usually buy a plane to copy and then dump it if successful, but I've not checked to see how difficult it might be to locate one of these.
 
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