Wooden Loo Seat

[Jamesc]

I have a new project to make a wooden 'Throne' type wooden loo seat. similar to http://dragonquarry.com/products/mahogany-throne-seat.

I would like to make mine in oak. I have the tools and (hopefully) the skills to make it. My queries are on the design. Most older seats I have seen use the breadboard construction shown in the link above, whereas the modern seats don't. Looking at the originals they appear to be glued together.
I can't see how this would work as seasonal movement surely must pull things apart of at the very least warp the seat which kind of defeats the purpose. If it is not fully glued it is not going to be the most hygienic.
Secondly what finish would you suggest, I have been thinking along the lines of Rustins plastic coating as it has worked well for me in the past.
And finally as to my choice of wood, oak would fit in with the overall scheme, I have some nice clear AWO that has been kilned in store. Alternatively I have some old mahogany that came from an old bank about 30 years ago that I could use.

I'd be grateful for the groups wisdom on this

James

 

[AndyT]

I think oak would be less suitable than your old mahogany, as oak is so porous and therefore difficult to seal.
As for a finish, I'd have a look at one of the modern hard wax oils sold for wooden kitchen worktops, which should be easier to refresh if necessary without needing to strip back to bare wood.

 

[Jamesc]

Thanks Andy, echoing my thoughts to be honest. I would like to go with the oak as the loo is to be oak panelled and it would fit in with the Arts and Crafts look we are going for but the open pourous structure was worrying me.

 

[AndyT]

In theory, you can fill all the pores with a grain filler. I've not done this myself but I expect someone who has can advise.

 

[Racers]

How about a good soak in BLO or Danish oil?
Done in a vacume tank for total penetration!

Pete

 

[Jamesc]

Thanks Pete, I don't have the facilities to vacuum the wood so I am afraid that is out.

Does anyone have any opinions on the construction please?

 

[Bod]

Splinters....doesn't bare thinking about...

Bod

 

[yetloh]

On visiting a friend's house I noticed his splendid (albeit conventional) loo seat in quartersawn European oak. Having never seen one like it with fabulous medullary rays I asked him where he got it and, of course, he made it himself. I don't think you will have any problem with porosity provided it is thoroughly finished. If it was me I would give it lots of coats of Danish oil, by which I mean at least six and maybe more - the wood will tell you when you have enough and you can leave it glossy or cut it back with wire wool to a lovely soft sheen according to your taste. Your antique style seat should be very tactile to sit on, accompanied by a good woodworking magaziine, what more could you ask for!

Jim

 

[mouppe]

Have you considered an antibacterial varnish?

http://www.polyvine.com/index.php?optio ... 48&lang=en

 

[Jamesc]

Wow mouppe I had never even considered that. I must admit the Danish oil is my favourite as I use it often and know it.

Jim you have read my mind, I haven't worked out the details yet but a bookshelf is definitely part of the design,

Again thanks for all the advice on finish but does anyone have any thoughts on the construction, particularly the bread board ends?

James

 

[marcros]

i wouldn't use wire wool on oak. use scotchbrite or similar.

 

[yetloh]

I must say the breadboard ends are what cause me the most cocern. You could glue them for only the first inch or two at the front to maintain a smooth profile there and peg it through the tongue in the middle and back through slotted holes in the tongue to allow the movement which will undoubtedly happen over that distance. If you don't want to see the pegs, you could put them in from the underside and stop the holes short of the upper surface. However, the continuity of the finish at the joint will inevitably break down with this movement regardless of which product you use. potentially allowing misture in. The chances of this being a problem are increased with a loo seat because flushing creates an aerosol which escapes into the atmosphere. Having a lid (if you plan to) makes this worse because the aerosol is more concentrated in the area under the lid, increasing moisture levels around the seat.

Although you probably like the breadboard ends, if I was intending to make one of these, I would dispense wiith them and run the grain from front to back which would remove all the movement problems. To make the sides more interesting, I might introduce some curvature to them rather than leave them completely straight, which would also make for more tactility. The downside of this change would be that the grain of the back hinging board would run at 90 deg. to the seat. But, if you look at some original seats you will see that many were made in this way, I suspect for the reasons I have mentioned.

Hope this helps .

Jim

 

[Jamesc]

Thanks Jim, I am not particularly attached to the breadboard ends. I want a period look and many of the original examples I found had them. I could foresee the problems you mentioned but wondered if I was missing something, after all I am far from an expert.
I am off to see my father tomorrow who has a good stock of old timber and will see what we can come up with. I think he has some walnut which may do the trick as my wife is not keen on red woods.
Thanks to all for your help, I have decided to go with a front to back construction with no breadboards and plenty of coats of Danish oil as it is a finish I am comfortable working with.
I can't promise a WIP (I am hopeless on remembering to photo things) but will post a picture when I am done. - Just don't hold your breath as there is a wealth of other things to do as well.

James

 

[dickm]

Just one word of warning from scarring childhood experience. We had a (probably joiner-made) oak seat on our outside loo which developed a split in the upper surface. Clearly open when seat was "unloaded" but could close up with uncomfortable results if sat on unwarily.

 

[Jamesc]

Just one word of warning from scarring childhood experience. We had a (probably joiner-made) oak seat on our outside loo which developed a split in the upper surface. Clearly open when seat was "unloaded" but could close up with uncomfortable results if sat on unwarily.

Ouch!

Hopefully the seat will be of thick enough timber not to cause a problem