Woodburner Flue route

[Grahamshed]

I am thinking about getting one of these http://www.stovesandfires.com/products.asp?cat=47&subcat=183&range=345 for my workshop but I am having a problem sorting out a good and safe position for it that does not involve the flue exiting through the roof.
What I would like to do is take the flue up to just below rafter level then go horizontally for about 2.5 metres and through the end wall, then up past roof level.
Question is will the fire/flue work with a horizontal run ?

 

[maltrout512]

May be better to have a 45* above stove to wall, making an exit with another 45* outside and up if you see what I mean. I would stay clear of a horizontal anywhere in the line.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

On cold, damp days you'd probably have a lot of trouble lighting it, and you'd certainly have trouble with it sooting up - I have trouble with soot, and mine's forty five degrees. It sounds like you have a pitched roof - why the reluctance to go through it? After a long wait for someone to do it (and ever diminishing funds), I fitted mine, and it really was quite simple.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

In a domestic setting where building regs apply, this is a no-no. No horizontal runs; at most 4 bends, 45 degrees. The reason why is not difficult to see - not only do you need to get brushes through to sweep it, but a soot fall needs to go back into the stove, not lodge at the bottom the the vertical bit, block the flue and just possibly fill your 'shop with smoke and carbon monoxide. You may however find pictures on the web of American installs that have horizontal runs (enough said ?) - but they dismantle the flue to sweep; again a building regs no-no.

 

[Grahamshed]

It sounds like you have a pitched roof - why the reluctance to go through it? After a long wait for someone to do it (and ever diminishing funds), I fitted mine, and it really was quite simple.

hi Phil
It is a slightly sloping flat roof which I have only just finished putting a new rubber covering on
The building has two doors on its long side, some 5 feet or so apart, and I want to put the stove between them. This long side has a wide veranda running along it shich again I do not want to punch a hole through. So I thought I might take the flue up the wall behind it, over the top of a door, and out of a convenient opening on the end wall.
But I can see the point about it sooting up.

 

[Grahamshed]

I dont think building regs will apply. This is a double skin brick building in my garden which is essentially my garden shed!! ...... Though I do see the point in them and take it onboard.

 

[Giff]

Sorry if it puts a damper ( no pun ) on the idea but I had ( have ) one and took it out of the workshop as I felt I was constantly breathing smoke. The whole workshop had a smokey atmosphere all the time. It did burn all the offcuts and even sawdust but I wasn't convinced it was very " lung friendly. Geoff

 

[jakethebuilder]

Soot isn't the only worry. Horizontal runs pose a fire hazard. Accumulated soot or other residual combustibless can eventually catch fire inside the chimney. If that happens, it's likely to burn down the entire place. Any "horizontal" run must have a slight incline toward the stove, which allows the heavier residuals to fall back into the stove and get burned up. That being said, lots of people in the U.S. install their stoves that way, but rather than a rergular elbow outside the wall, they use a "T" chimney pipe, with a removable cap, to allow for cleaning it out periodically. Don't blame you for not wanting to punch a hole in a new roof. I had the same issue with a new barn last year, but as someone said above, it's really quite easy to install. I ended up going straight up from the stove. It's just easier and cleaner that way.

 

[Grahamshed]

Soot isn't the only worry. Horizontal runs pose a fire hazard. Accumulated soot or other residual combustibless can eventually catch fire inside the chimney. If that happens, it's likely to burn down the entire place. Any "horizontal" run must have a slight incline toward the stove, which allows the heavier residuals to fall back into the stove and get burned up. That being said, lots of people in the U.S. install their stoves that way, but rather than a rergular elbow outside the wall, they use a "T" chimney pipe, with a removable cap, to allow for cleaning it out periodically. Don't blame you for not wanting to punch a hole in a new roof. I had the same issue with a new barn last year, but as someone said above, it's really quite easy to install. I ended up going straight up from the stove. It's just easier and cleaner that way.

Thanks for your reply.
So...... If those across the pond do it then presumably horizontal will still allow the burner to 'draw'.
I wonder how 'slight' the incline needs to be for safety? My rafters over the fire start at 2.35 meters, the door between it and the end wall is presumably no more than 2 meters......
This thing would not be burning all day every day, maybe only a couple of hours on the average day......
Don't mind cleaning out the flue now and again.....
Mmmmm..... decisions decisions.

 

[Stormer1940]

This may also help and clarify a few things already said

http://www.workshopstoves.co.uk/worksho ... ptype=int1

 

[Grahamshed]

Thats a great link Stormer. Thank you.
Interesting to note that the roof gaskets are made out of EPDM ( which I have just put on my roof ) Maybe I will punch a hole in it after all

 

[jakethebuilder]

The recommended slope for the horizontal run is a quarter inch per foot. The lower end always being toward the stove. Regulations over there may be different. But again, if you look at the trouble, and the cost of that extra length of double-walled, insulated metal chimney, and securing the vertical portion to the side of your building, going straight up through the roof is almost always the best option.

 

[Grahamshed]

The recommended slope for the horizontal run is a quarter inch per foot. The lower end always being toward the stove. Regulations over there may be different. But again, if you look at the trouble, and the cost of that extra length of double-walled, insulated metal chimney, and securing the vertical portion to the side of your building, going straight up through the roof is almost always the best option.

Quarter inch per foot I could manage easily..... but I may well decide to go straight through the roof. I was worried about sealing it with an EPDM roof but it may not be a problem. I am checking.