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Wood to painted wall adhesive

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Osvaldd

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I want to install a wee coat hanger. Its a piece of pine with a few brass hooks. I absolutely cannot use any mechanical fasteners because its a stud wall full of pipes and wires.
Any decent adhesive options?
please let me know
 

thetyreman

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you will find it won't take the weight without fixing to the wall, that's been my experience anyway, I have used pink grip for fixing skirting to walls but I am not sure it would take the weight of several coats.
 

MikeG.

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There are plenty of things which will stick wood beautifully to paint. But will the paint hold the weight of a rack full of coats?
 

Osvaldd

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yeah, I worry that most of these contact adhesives work best on bare surfaces
 

MikeG.

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Here we go again. You've been told, Osvalld, that sticking load-bearing stuff to paint won't work. No matter how many times you ask, it still won't work. The bond between wood and paint won't fail, but the bond between paint and plaster will. There is absolutely nothing you can do about that. Your plan will fail. When it falls off the wall, the paint will be stuck beautifully to the back of the piece of wood.
 

Osvaldd

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lol, take it easy Mike. You are being very harsh on me(tough love?).
I posted this YT link just for a bit of fun, a beautiful blond woman gluing a mirror to a wall.

I absolutely understand the conundrum of using adhesives like CT1 on painted walls, but the reason I asked was because maybe theres something else out there that I don't know, maybe theres some kind of glue that penetrates the paint and sticks to the plaster?
or perhaps scraping the paint off would be a thing to consider ?
 

Osvaldd

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I just checked the wall is a layer of plasterboard and 20mm of plywood so I think I can safely use 40mm woodscrews and some CT1. That should be alright I think.
 

MikeG.

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Osvaldd":mw53iifv said:
lol, take it easy Mike. You are being very harsh on me.......
No, I'm not. This is you behaving as you have done in multiple threads. You were told twice that your idea wouldn't work. You ignore that and plough on anyway, posting a video showing someone sticking something to a wall, and ask if that would work. You either do this stuff to wind everyone up, or you are completely and utterly impervious to advice. Which is it?
 

That would work

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Is there any way that you could fix a larger board that spans the studs? Fix that into the studs then fix your hook timber to that? Maybe make a feature out of it
Edit
OK just seen the 20mm ply post.
 

Osvaldd

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I genuinely do not know how to respond, Mike. flabbergasted. :eek:
 

J-G

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Osvaldd":1eztvitz said:
I genuinely do not know how to respond, Mike. flabbergasted. :eek:
Perhaps an apology and a promise not to do it again? :)
 

Geoff_S

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Can you hang it from the ceiling but flat against the wall. Use fishing line to disguise it or fancy chain as a feature? 8)
 

Lindas

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How would marking where it will go on the painted wall and then remove that painted area and abrade the plaster. I see you can screw it so that should be fine. I've used a pattress in places in my house where there are stud partition walls and it works well and can look good depending on the design of your wood. Hope I am allowed to join in!!
 

Trevanion

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I guess the answer from me is, "it'll probably work, but...". As has already been said, mechanical fixings would be the best solution (Especially since you've got 20mm ply in the wall) but I don't think I've seen anyone else ask, how large is this proposed coat hanger and how many and how heavy are the coats are you proposing of hanging off it? I personally reckon a 3" x 3" square of wood stuck to the wall with something like pinkgrip would hold up a single or even two hefty coats pretty easily. What's the worst that could happen if it doesn't work? Coats fall on the floor and possibly the paintwork on the wall gets a little messed up.

In an ideal world Osvaldd, fix it to the wall with some screws for a proper job. But you could probably get away with just sticking it if there's enough surface area on your piece of pine. If it fails, there's no harm done and no massive amount of time wasted.

I wouldn't bother with CT1, very overpriced and not particularly good. Some people swear by it but I haven't noticed a difference that makes it worth £5-10 a tube more than everything else for general work.

Not a definitive test, but I was surprised that practically the cheapest tube of the lot (Pinkgrip) held the brick in place on the wall the best.
[youtube]uZxNGQ7t0BU[/youtube]
 

MikeG.

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Lindas":2earon1h said:
How would marking where it will go on the painted wall and then remove that painted area and abrade the plaster.......
I'd abrade/ remove the paint, Linda, but not the plaster. Plaster relies on its polished surface for its strength, and once that is lost or damaged it exposes something quite weak and powdery underneath. Whilst removing the paint is an improvement over sticking stuff to the paint, plaster itself isn't very strong, and will easily pull out in lumps if the adhesive is strong and the weight is too much. Frankly, there are no circumstances in which I would consider anything other than a mechanical fixing for a coat rack.
 

Lindas

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Yes, I think fixings are best in all circumstances where weight is to be taken, my dad would have gone with the longest screws and good rawl plugs and I am the same really. It's not a happy thing to have stuff fall off the wall!
 

sammy.se

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MikeG.":2ep6eskq said:
Plaster relies on its polished surface for its strength...
Wow, did not know that....

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

Bm101

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It's a little known fact that pritt stick was invented for exactly for this reason. That's why it comes in a round tube see!? It matches the dowel.
Obvious when you know.
Simply twist the handy tube bottom and apply to your dowel. Both ends are recommended when applying coat rack to flaky, chalky or rain damaged paint surfaces. If the paint is sound you are laughing structurally speaking. Certainly if it's had more than one coat you might get away with just licking the ends of the dowel and do away with a frivolity like the pritt stick altogether.
It's all to do with how weight is compressed into force when it becomes shear.
Certainly you wouldn't feel the need to use dedicated shear fixings such as these https://www.screwfix.com/c/screws-nails ... and=gripit
or similar to hold up two simple end brackets made from squares of wood with a hole cut in each.
That would be madness.
 

Trevanion

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Bm101":3tom75wt said:
It's a little known fact that pritt stick was invented for exactly for this reason.
That's why they're called trade SECRETS! You're not supposed to divulge them on a public forum so that any old punter could do it! How am I going to add £50 to the bill for "special coat hanger glue" now!?

My disappointment is immeasurable, and my day is ruined.
 
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