Wood Shingles Production

[Aden30mm]

Is anyone out there, able to provide me with details of producing shingles / shakes.

My initial research suggests that a froe needs to be used. However, could a bandsaw be used, to cut the shingles?

Any advice would be gratefully received. I would prefer advice from folk that are, or have produced these items.

Regards

Aden

 

[marcros]

i saw a youtube video once. I presume that the froe is in order to split rather than cut them.

 

[nathandavies]

I have done it with a froe, once you get going it would be quicker, some work after the froe needs to be done as well.

personally I would prefer the more natural look of the froe, and you are going with the timbers own grain, I would have thought this would make them slightly more durable.

 

[woodfarmer]

As said, split timber has much less end grain showing than cut timber and that makes it longer lasting. Instead of a traditional fro why not use an electric one ? The vertical log splitters are very easy to use. You might want to make a wider flat blade for it though. I split a lot of thin short planks for kindling.

 

[Aden30mm]

Yes, I accept splitting them will allow for the timber to split on a weaker fault line along the grain.

I carried out an online review and the knowledge seems to emanate from our friends across the pond. They still use this building means there, whereby here in UK it arguably, is a skill we have left behind.

However,some of these items are produced via mechanical means, be interesting to understand how this happens.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Using a froe cleaves the wood which means it splits with the long grain each the same length as the shingle. In other words all the straws are the same length. By cutting timber the blade sheers through many of the straws so shortening and weakening the same length of timber. Traditional native UK species for shingles include oak and chestnut. Cedar is if course the classic choice for non native species

If you're doing it yourself the timber wants to be as straight grained as possible

 

[Benchwayze]

A split shingle has its long grain formed into 'ridges and valleys' along the length. As well as a more rustic appearance, doesn't that also help to shed rainwater more easily?

 

[Self Taught]

Aden30mm,

Hope the link works, it's on the difference between shingles and shakes, hope it helps.
http://www.cedarshinglesinformation.co. ... nd-shakes/.

Jamey

 

[Benchwayze]

Well... Learn something every day.

The 'Ridges and Valleys' are very plain all the same! :lol:

 

[Aden30mm]

Many thanks for all your kind assistance.

I'ts got me hooked, so I'm off to look for a 10in froe, and see if I can pick up some cedar logs from my local sawmill.

All or most of the online clips tend to show large logs that have been quartered out, timber that I can source will never have the girth, and when quartered possibly will have not much more than a six inch width. That may even be overestimation as the sap wood and bark will also need to be cut out.

I only have a small garden structure to cover, so it will be amusing project.

I'll post the results, when I get sorted.

Again thanks troops for the advice.

Kind regards

Aden

 

[marcros]

i noticed that too. I presume that it was to be able to get the straight grain- you wouldnt want to have too much movement with them, and i winder whether it would be worth the effort on small stuff.

However, a small structure may look better with smaller shakes/shingles on so you could be onto a winner!

 

[AndyT]

Aden - I see you are in Lincolnshire. One of the few places making tools such as froes is Ray Iles - The Old Tool Store - in Horncastle. As well as selling online they can be visited if you ring up first.

http://www.oldtools.free-online.co.uk/shop/froes.html

I am reliably informed that a visit is well worth while.

Also, Roy Underhill has a good chapter on shingles and other sorts of wooden roof in his book "The Woodwright's Companion."

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

You should also join the bodgers forum