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woodbloke66

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Completed this morning; a pair of wine tables in Elm with solid burr Elm tops:

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Constructed using dominos and finished with six coats of Peacock Oil which was left for a week in a very warm workshop to cure, then finished with a good application of Alfie Shine, again left for three days to harden off before final polishing. The tops were finished with six or seven coats of Polivine Acrylic Wax, cut back between each coat with 2000g silicon carbide paper, then finally burnished with 3 micron polishing film from Workshop Heaven - Rob
 

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sammy.se

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Very nice - the attention you gave to the finishing really shows off the wood.
 

marcros

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is that a gunstock mortice/tenon on the legs, rob?
 

woodbloke66

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marcros":2pezxf37 said:
is that a gunstock mortice/tenon on the legs, rob?
I have done that joint in the past but not on this job; I simply used a carefully matched piece of elm which was glued to the top of each leg in order to provide enough material for the internal curve

Edit - the blocks of elm came off the bottom of each leg (they were left deliberately over long) so there was a pretty good chance that the grain and colour would match - Rob
 

woodbloke66

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marcros":yosmcpgq said:
I had never thought of doing it that way. The reason I ask, is because I saw this item the other day, and the approach that you took would save time, effort and timber.

https://www.heals.com/agnes-high-shelvi ... mOEALw_wcB
The technique of attaching a separate block cut from the same stock is one that I first saw in Rob Ingham's book 'Cutting Edge Cabinetmaking'. The Heal's shelving units are very good but they, as you say, would have had to use wider material to accommodate the curve and much of it would then be machined away and if it was English Walnut, I would begrudge it :D
Edit - the story behind that Heals shelving unit is illustrated in John Makepeace's book 'Beyond Parnham' - Rob
 
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