Why safety goggles are important ....

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RogerS

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......or why removing the crown guard is not a great idea (unless you have no alternative)

I needed to rip down some wood but the depth of my table saw blade wasn't enough unless I removed the crown guard. Which I don't like doing, for obvious reasons.

There was a knot in the top which disintegrated as the blade went through it.

 
Ah, you needed one of these Roger.

none-shall-pass.jpg


Pretty standard equipment for most workshops including two pushsticks and a heavy iron weight.
 
Which is why, when I can't use my normal crown guard, I use a magnetic stand-alone guard which prevents that sort of event, whilst still allowing me to make the cut.
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Glad it wasn't worse.
 
I saw a safety quote a while ago that I thought was excellent.
Employer, talking to metal worker not using goggles; "Why are you not using the goggles i provided?
Employee; "boss, I've already lost the sight in one eye from a spark, what are the chances of getting caught again"?
Boss; "higher then the chances of me employing a blind welder". =D> =D>

But, strangely, only 4 days ago I was cutting ceramic floor tiles with a disc cutter, using mask, goggles and ear muffs, when a chip flew up, bounced off my mask, under the goggles and straight into my eye. It was big enough that I even saw it coming and felt the bounce on the mask.

I had to quickly pull all the gear off, hold my eye lid up so I didnt blink, get indoors and grab a piece of kitchen roll, twist it into a point, get to a mirror and flick the piece out. Not that I've had to do this before you understand :roll: :roll:

Now I'm on the hunt for better goggles.
 
That must have been a massive knot, it's taken all your hair off .......................
 
Steve Maskery":3jmyh4tu said:
Which is why, when I can't use my normal crown guard, I use a magnetic stand-alone guard which prevents that sort of event, whilst still allowing me to make the cut.
...
Glad it wasn't worse.

How does that work with a long rip cut, Steve? Where's the fence ?
 
RogerS":20nu8ajc said:
How does that work with a long rip cut, Steve? Where's the fence ?

I wouldn't use that guard for ripping, Roger. I have my SUVA-style guard for that. This one is for the other cuts where I can't use the SUVA. It's usually when I'm using some kind of jig or fixture where the SUVA gets in the way.
 
I have had fragments get up under safety glasses also. Since I started turning I got a full face shield. From day one it was used with all power tools. It is so much better than goggles as I can wear my glasses under it and the current one has built in ear muffs too.
Regards
John
 
Since I had an accident with my eye a few years ago I always wear safety goggles when doing anything remotely dangerous. I damaged the lens and pupil in my eye at work when I was breaking some slate up with a hammer to use as joist packers and a piece flung off and stuck in my eye. Its a bloody horrible feeling when you can't see anything out of one eye then you look in the mirror and see what a mess your eye is! Luckily now I've had cataract surgery with a new lens and had my eye stitched up so I've got quite a bit of sight back in it. Always wear goggles! I wear the skiing type ones now so stop anything getting past. Can wear them over my glasses too.
 
Steve Maskery":1zaerl3g said:
RogerS":1zaerl3g said:
How does that work with a long rip cut, Steve? Where's the fence ?

I wouldn't use that guard for ripping, Roger. I have my SUVA-style guard for that. This one is for the other cuts where I can't use the SUVA. It's usually when I'm using some kind of jig or fixture where the SUVA gets in the way.

The SUVA fits to the riving knife, yes ? I also use the SUVA this way. But if the thickness of the stock is too high to go under the SUVA guard while fitted to the riving knife then .....?
 
SUVA type guards are supported by a separate arm with parallelogram linkage and float over the blade and riving knife assembly, typically without connection to the riving knife.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 
RogerS":3rx0nilb said:
The SUVA fits to the riving knife, yes ? I also use the SUVA this way. But if the thickness of the stock is too high to go under the SUVA guard while fitted to the riving knife then .....?

No, the SUVA is mounted on a boom arm from the far RH corner. It is supported by a shoe on the fence. I also have a shoe which clamps in the mitre slot for when I'm not using the fence (or using it to the left of the blade, such as when bevelling).

I never do anything without some sort of guard. If the job can't be guarded, I look for another way to do it.
 
siggy_7":3ob5rw72 said:
SUVA type guards are supported by a separate arm with parallelogram linkage and float over the blade and riving knife assembly, typically without connection to the riving knife.

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

That's what I thought as well but then when I Googled SUVA and got this

suva.png
 

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Steve Maskery":30ome439 said:
....
No, the SUVA is mounted on a boom arm from the far RH corner. It is supported by a shoe on the fence. I also have a shoe which clamps in the mitre slot for when I'm not using the fence (or using it to the left of the blade, such as when bevelling).

No way I can do that on my combi.
Steve Maskery":30ome439 said:
If the job can't be guarded, I look for another way to do it.

That's how I started to rip the wood. On my bandsaw. Which made a complete pigs' ear, cutline wandering all over the place, up/down/sideways/not-vertical etc. Probably because my bandsaw is too small. Ergo...table saw.
 
I'd call that a crown guard.

SUVA is, I believe, an acronym for a Swiss insurance company, who approve the design.

This is mine:
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In this picture I have the fence on the left so that the blade is tilting away. On the fence is a shoe (not easy to see as it is clear) and that normally supports the boom, but as the fence is on the left I am using an auxillary shoe which clamps in the mitre track.

I thought you had my DVDs Roger? It's all documented in WE8.
(Well all bar the auxilliary shoe, that came later.)
 
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