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Whitehead PTJ 12" x 4" planer/thicknesser knife removal and spare part

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Plane Nick

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Hello - I have acquired the above machine built in 1949! I am in the course of renovation and would be grateful for assistance with the following:
1. Removal and adjustment of the knives. I am unsure how to do this. I am familiar with later machines but despite removal of the allen key grub screws the knives and adjacent spacer bars are in tight. No doubt the system used is common to a number of older machines. Suggestions gratefully received.
2. The cast iron support arm for the thicknesser table adjustment threaded rod is fractured. It has PJ10 cast into it. Is there any prospect of finding a spare?
 

Cordy

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Hi
I own a Junior Whitehead Planer; 6 inch wide by 3 ft long bed
Can you post photos of your machine ?

edit -- some of the knife bolts are anti- clockwise, meaning the opposite way to normal thread
 

Jelly

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2. The cast iron support arm for the thicknesser table adjustment threaded rod is fractured. It has PJ10 cast into it. Is there any prospect of finding a spare?
Highly unlikely without finding someone breaking a machine for spares.

If it's fractured but not actually broken into pieces (or even if it's in bits but only one or two and you still have them all) then it's an excellent candidate for a brazed repair.
 

Plane Nick

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Thanks - it is in two pieces with a clean break so will try getting it brazed. Alternatively could be cast but might be expensive.
The 12" is the planing width capacity. The 4" is the thick depth capacity.
IMG_5327.JPG

I still don't see how to remove blades and to set up blade and the table heights.
 

RobinBHM

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That's a proper machine with a cast body.

Once you get it set up and fettled it will be a workhorse capable of working all day every day with repeatable accuracy.

In regards to setting up the knives / tables - the usual method is to set the knives in the block with a setting gauge so they are parallel to the outfeed surfacer table. Then if required adjust the height of the outfield table so it's a few thou lower than top dead centre of knives.

as far as I can see it's the 6 holes where the locking bolts / Allen head set screws / whatever are what holds the wedge bar and cutter in place. If the wedge bar is still tight you probably need to give it a hammer downwards as it's probably stuck with a bit of rust.

Spindle moulder cutters always get stuck and need a tap down to release.
 

Plane Nick

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That's a proper machine with a cast body.

Once you get it set up and fettled it will be a workhorse capable of working all day every day with repeatable accuracy.

In regards to setting up the knives / tables - the usual method is to set the knives in the block with a setting gauge so they are parallel to the outfeed surfacer table. Then if required adjust the height of the outfield table so it's a few thou lower than top dead centre of knives.

as far as I can see it's the 6 holes where the locking bolts / Allen head set screws / whatever are what holds the wedge bar and cutter in place. If the wedge bar is still tight you probably need to give it a hammer downwards as it's probably stuck with a bit of rust.

Spindle moulder cutters always get stuck and need a tap down to release.
Many thanks for that Robin - it gave me the courage to apply a little force. They were really stuck in and needed repeated taps from below through the 2 bottom holes and then from the side on the wedge bars which then came slowly out with the knives. So success and now cleaning them up.
As for the part, my local foundry is casting one for me using the old parts as a pattern. In the meantime I continue to restore the workhorse.
 
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