Which turpentine for beeswax finish

[tibi]

Hello,

I am going to finish the restoration of my great-grandfather's workbench in 4- 6 weeks. I would like to make my own beeswax finish for it.

I would like to include beeswax, Carnauba, and turpentine.

In English-speaking sites, turpentine is always referred to as turpentine only. However, in Slovakia, I can buy both Wood Turpentine and Balsamic Turpentine and I do not know which one is suitable for this application?

Also, what is a good ratio of compounds, and are there any hazards concerning preparation and usage I should be aware of? Is this finish suitable to be in contact with food or for children's toys?

Thank you very much.

 

[Rich C]

I think wood turpentine is traditional. That said there doesn't seem to be much difference between them, they're both extracted from pine.

 

[johnnyb]

does balsamic turpentine also contains copaiba balsam? Portugal makes the best turpentine.

 

[Jacob]

Possibly overthinking it a bit. Turps is just a solvent and white spirit or other things would do just as well. Some smell nicer though!

 

[Jacob]

does balsamic turpentine also contains copaiba balsam? Portugal makes the best turpentine.

And SW France in the Forest of Landes. There is a Museum of Turpentine at Luxey - worth a visit!

 

[johnnyb]

it's as simple or as complex as you would like really. turps and white spirit are not the same( though they may dissolve similar materials) I also believe turpentine substitute and white spirit are not quite the same one being used as a thinner one as a brush cleaner.(in fact they are usually the same these days)
same with thinners many different solvents all will dissolve lacquer.

 

[Jacob]

https://www.abelard.org/france/les_landes_forestry_industry3.php#resin_distilling

 

[tibi]

Here is the difference:

Wood Turpentine - turpentine is made of wood or roots (wood turpentine oil). This turpentine is made by extraction from branches or roots of pine using a problematic chemical called petroleum ether. During the extraction, some other substances are created like Alpha-Pinen and Alpha -Terpinen. Turpentine oil does not have the quality of balsamic turpentine.

Balsamic turpentine is extracted by steam distillation from the resin outflow (balsam) of various pine species. As a rule, about 70% of the pine balsam consists of rosin resin and 30% turpentine oil. The world’s pine forests release several million tons of turpentine oil into the atmosphere every year.

 

[Jacob]

Here is the difference:

Wood Turpentine - turpentine is made of wood or roots (wood turpentine oil). This turpentine is made by extraction from branches or roots of pine using a problematic chemical called petroleum ether. During the extraction, some other substances are created like Alpha-Pinen and Alpha -Terpinen. Turpentine oil does not have the quality of balsamic turpentine.

Balsamic turpentine is extracted by steam distillation from the resin outflow (balsam) of various pine species. As a rule, about 70% of the pine balsam consists of rosin resin and 30% turpentine oil. The world’s pine forests release several million tons of turpentine oil into the atmosphere every year.

Yes but what's the difference? "Balsamic" turpentine seems to be normal world wide turpentine as extracted from resin everywhere.

 

[tibi]

Yes but what's the difference? "Balsamic" turpentine seems to be normal world wide turpentine as extracted from resin everywhere.

This is what I wanted to know that i should use balsamic, not the one made from wood and branches i.e wood turpentine

 

[Jacob]

This is what I wanted to know that i should use balsamic, not the one made from wood and branches i.e wood turpentine

If in doubt I'd assume it would make no difference.

 

[Rich C]

This is what I wanted to know that i should use balsamic, not the one made from wood and branches i.e wood turpentine

I would use whichever is cheaper.

 

[Devmeister]

Wood turpentine. Turpentine is named after a chemical in trees called turpins. Green evergreens have the most in their needles. When trees die, the turpins dissipate. But green evergreens also have a lot of moisture.

In forest fires, green trees are harder to ignite but when they do, the turpins really burn and burn hot.

Turpentine is a turpin based solvent made naturally. Much better for wood finishes than petrol based solvents. The turpentine wax finish is a classic but needs to be replaced ever so often. It’s only downside is it doesn’t POP the grain like an oil finish. For a workbench that not an issue. For figure you might try a light coat of linseed oil first. Not a finish coat but just to pop the grain.

The beeswax is awsome but it’s a tad soft. So that is why the carnuba wax is used also. Makes the finish a bit more durable.

The lacquer and poly finishes have their place but on fine pieces it looks like a coyote terd wrapped in cellophane.

 

[Jacob]

.....

The lacquer and poly finishes have their place but on fine pieces it looks like a coyote terd wrapped in cellophane.

I agree.

 

[TRITON]

If not mentioned before(tl:dr) you can buy pure turpentine. Artists use it to thin oil paints, and its available from better art shops. I got some last time i made up a wax compound, using bees and carnauba flakes.
Not cheap though.
Might also be known as distilled turpentine(or that might be the same thing as pure).

It cost me about a tenner for a 1/2 litre

 

[tibi]

Wood turpentine. Turpentine is named after a chemical in trees called turpins. Green evergreens have the most in their needles. When trees die, the turpins dissipate. But green evergreens also have a lot of moisture.

In forest fires, green trees are harder to ignite but when they do, the turpins really burn and burn hot.

Turpentine is a turpin based solvent made naturally. Much better for wood finishes than petrol based solvents. The turpentine wax finish is a classic but needs to be replaced ever so often. It’s only downside is it doesn’t POP the grain like an oil finish. For a workbench that not an issue. For figure you might try a light coat of linseed oil first. Not a finish coat but just to pop the grain.

The beeswax is awsome but it’s a tad soft. So that is why the carnuba wax is used also. Makes the finish a bit more durable.

The lacquer and poly finishes have their place but on fine pieces it looks like a coyote terd wrapped in cellophane.

Thank you Devmeister,

Thank you for your answer. Some people also add BLO into the mixture. Is it necessary to add a boiled linseed oil before as a separate coat or it can also be a part of the mixture and it will pop the grain?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

https://www.warriorwarehouses.co.uk...eatments/Turpentine-Genuine-250ml-19BA-TUGE25
Two years ago it was £3.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Basically the turpentine required is known simply as 'genuine gum turpentine', which sometimes includes the word American in the title. One source in the UK is here. I've no idea where you'd get the stuff in Slovakia, so try a local search. I can't recall a prescriptive mix for the ingredients for your polish. It's been many years since I put together a polish like that, but I seem to recall the proportions can be adjusted for specific characteristics. For example, add extra carnauba wax if a harder finish is wanted (closer to a film finish) but doing so makes buffing out somewhat more difficult. Slainte.

 

[tibi]

Basically the turpentine required is known simply as 'genuine gum turpentine', which sometimes includes the word American in the title. One source in the UK is here. I've no idea where you'd get the stuff in Slovakia, so try a local search. I can't recall a prescriptive mix for the ingredients for your polish. It's been many years since I put together a polish like that, but I seem to recall the proportions can be adjusted for specific characteristics. For example, add extra carnauba wax if a harder finish is wanted (closer to a film finish) but doing so makes buffing out somewhat more difficult. Slainte.

Thank you very much. Gum turpentine is balsamic turpentine, so the problem is solved. I would need to experiment with the ratios, starting with some known formula that I will find online and then adjust accordingly.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I use microcrystaline wax and carnauba in preference to beeswax on things that get handled, they're much harder and have a higher melting point. Beeswax is a lovely polish but marks very easily. M/c and/or carnauba take longer to make as they're harder. Do it in a bain marie or glue kettle for safety. I did have a source for m/c wax but the last time I emailed he didn't answer.