Which router for oak?

[timberfly]

I'm new to woodworking but have a project in mind and would like to get experimenting. I'd like to work with oak, and need a router setup that can make grooves (max 1/4") and perhaps do some light profiling (some bevel etc).

I'm on the market for a router table and router, but I've read so much that I'm not sure what kind of router I need. So many different opinions out there. Would a cheap trim router be up to it? What would be the disadvantages - would it even make it through?

On the other end of the spectrum I'm looking at going all in for a TRA001, especially for table use. I have no need to do panel raising etc, but it doesn't seem I could go far wrong with this. But maybe it's total overkill for what I need, and I'd be better off saving the ££.

Table-wise I'm looking at the Trend MK3, but might spend more if it makes a big difference. Priority for me seems a rock-solid fence. I'm not up for making my own set yet.

Welcome your thoughts...

 

[mikej460]

Do you think all your router work can be done on a router table, if so you might want to think about a bench table complete with router such as a Lumberjack RT1500; I've read favourable views about these. What you need to avoid is spending a lot of cash on gear that for the most part will sit gathering dust and getting in your way. If you can see yourself doing more router work after this project then a good quality trim router such as a Makita or Dewalt would be my choice for lighter work, you can always buy another/upgrade if your needs change. If you want to try a trim router at least cost then buy a Katsu and practice on scrap or cheap wood.

 

[timberfly]

Thanks Mike. I've seen the Lumberjack but wasn't sure if the accuracy would be up to scratch - I want solid and repeatable results even as a novice. But I'll look again.

I suppose I'm just not sure if what I'm planning to do - groove and profile some oak - counts as light work. I've seen the Katsu and might just get it to try anyway, but without the experience I don't know if I'm just expecting way too much of it. That massive Triton is definitely calling haha.

I only plan to route in the table, and do plan to do more in future. But only on the same scale - still no panels etc.

 

[Cabinetman]

Hi timberfly, as you haven’t started yet it’s a little early to say that you only plann to rout on a table, I’m not criticising it’s just that I think you ought to experiment and try your hand at different things before you go mad on expensive equipment which as was said above will annoy the hell out of you, and sit gathering dust.
Personally I would suggest you buy a relatively inexpensive palm/trim router, it will always come in handy, If you type in Behomoth into the search engine it will come up with the desk I made with quarter-inch grooves as you are suggesting, I used a Bosch palm router for that. Ian

 

[mikej460]

Take it from a TRA001 owner, it's not for light hand held work, it's definitely an under-table router unless you use sturdy jigs (but it is a great machine ). Try the Katsu but buy a couple of quality cutters such as Wealden, don't be tempted to buy a bargain set containing loads of cutters that you will never use and possibly poor quality anyway (as I did years ago). The old adage on this forum being 'buy what you need when you need it'. If you are still undecided invest in a router course before you buy anything.

 

[timberfly]

Hi timberfly, as you haven’t started yet it’s a little early to say that you only plann to rout on a table, I’m not criticising it’s just that I think you ought to experiment and try your hand at different things before you go mad on expensive equipment which as was said above will annoy the hell out of you, and sit gathering dust.
Personally I would suggest you buy a relatively inexpensive palm/trim router, it will always come in handy, If you type in Behomoth into the search engine it will come up with the desk I made with quarter-inch grooves as you are suggesting, I used a Bosch palm router for that. Ian

Thanks Cabinetman. The Behomoth is damn impressive. Lovely bit of work.

I think you're right - it's just that all of the projects I have in mind need a table for the moment, and it's hard to look past that. The ££ is important, but I don't want to buy something underpowered, get bad results, and lose heart haha.

Could I use a palm router to make 1/4" by 1/4" grooves in oak or would that be asking too much?

 

[timberfly]

Take it from a TRA001 owner, it's not for light hand held work, it's definitely an under-table router unless you use sturdy jigs (but it is a great machine ). Try the Katsu but buy a couple of quality cutters such as Wealden, don't be tempted to buy a bargain set containing loads of cutters that you will never use and possibly poor quality anyway (as I did years ago). The old adage on this forum being 'buy what you need when you need it'. If you are still undecided invest in a router course before you buy anything.

Thanks again Mike. I'm pretty focused on table work, and that's what's brought me to the the TRA. I'm just thinking that it couldn't be a bad investment. The most I'd like to do - and I'm a fair way off - is some lock mitres in oak, as well as those grooves and bevels. Is the TRA just way too much power?

I'm absolutely with you on the cutters and Wealden is my first choice. Great tip on not getting a set haha. I'll just buy for the precise cuts I need...

A router course is a good idea but difficult in these times, and honestly I'm just impatient to get working.

 

[Cabinetman]

That’s what the grooves on the desk were, the Bosch palm router didn’t falter, and importantly it’s controllably hand sized.

 

[Farm Labourer]

The general rule of thumb is don't cut deeper than half diameter. So for me, I'd happily run a 1/4" cutter over 4 passes rather than the 2 as above,

 

[timberfly]

So looks like I can save the ££ and start out with a palm router for this kind of job. Result. I guess lock mitres are too much in 3/4" oak though...?

Only issue I've read about is that the cut could be rougher with an underpowered router. Any truth in that? I'm still looking for a great accurate result.

 

[spb]

For most router work (more or less anything that doesn't involve dovetails), if you find the tool is underpowered you can just back off a bit and do it in more passes. It'll take a bit longer but should give a perfectly decent result.

 

[Trainee neophyte]

Being a cheapskate I have one smallish router which sometimes lives in a "table". The table is a sheet of ply over trestles with a hole drilled for the router bit. I would strongly recommend getting something useable handheld, and then make a very cheap table to play with. See if you like the way it works. I struggle with accuracy for the router either handheld or in the table - a combination of lack of practice, poor marking out and poor technique. I can make perfect tenons, all identical, square, crisp shoulders. The mortices are basically random - too big, too small, too deep, not deep enough.

I'm working on it.

 

[clogs]

have plenty of small routers but my go too machine is a 3hp Hitachi......
have 2 actually, 1 for hand use and the other strapped perm to a router table......
I like the weight and power (not to heavy actually).....
I find there's less controll when free hand routing with the baby machines...

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I suppose I'm just not sure if what I'm planning to do - groove and profile some oak - counts as light work.

It does in my book.

 

[AJB Temple]

Over the years I've graduated through or to a few.
AEG 1/4" now 30 years old and still going strong (but rarely used)
ELU MOF 96 (needs bearing replacements)
Hitachi 1/2" 3hp. Bought second hand for £50 (along with a trim router thrown in) - day to day user and go to tool
Trend T11 - sits in the router table - rarely used
Trim router - Stanley with alloy wind down body. Never used. I don't trim laminates though.

I dislike big routers like the Triton. They are clumsy and unwieldy in my hands, The Hitachi is of unknown age as I got it S/H from someone who used to be a member here. It is used a great deal for trimming oak, making mortice holes, doing half rebates, doing board beading and moulding, All hand held.

Don't obsess about the machine. They all just spin a cutter. Focus on ease of use: enough power, easy to control depth stop system, smooth and easy plunge mechanism (too stiff is annoying with routers), easy and safe tool change. Extraction is nice but makes them unwieldy. I find a 1/2" router does it all really.

Buy good quality tooling. Eg Wealdon. In my case I only regularly use a handful of bits. Mostly bearing guided,

Look out for a good second hand tool. Routers are pretty tough bits of kit.

Wear safety glasses or an air mask. You will find yourself getting close to the spinning bit to see what is going on. Oak is prone to having wood chips fly off.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes, the cutters are usually more important than the machine. I do query the advice given to beginners not to buy sets, though. I have a 1/2" Trend set I bought when I bought the router in 1990 that's been fine, and a 1/4" Trend set I bought a year or two ago. There will always be a few that are never used, but for value per piece they can't be be beaten even alowing for them. I have bought a few hundred quid's worth of Wealden ones since.

 

[johnnyb]

I would suggest the festool version of the mafell. its extremely powerful.make sure its got the fence as these can be a bit pricy. buy it used of course. its very underrated as people compare it to the of 2200( the version you want is the of2000)

 

[Astrobits]

My first router was a basic one from Screwfix ( FERM brand, I think it cost about £30 ) 20 years ago and it did all that I asked of it. That was joined by a TRA001 and table 13 years ago and is still going strong ( the FERM one eventually had a bearing failure and was binned ). I now also have a "baby" Triton JOF001 for hand use and that can handle anything I want ( mortises when making doors to replace my garage up-and-over ones down to decorative tapered grooves ). With the table mounted TRA I do things as small as slots for scissor hinges in jewellery type boxes for the grandkids.
My local Men's Shed has the middle sized MOF001 in a table and that has handled any project thrown at it.
My only complaint about the original FERM router ( and many of the cheap identical ones ) is the lack of fine control on the depth setting. Adjusting them by tenths of a mm is not easy, unlike the Triton ones that can be very finely adjusted with ease. I do not have the experience of other makes so cannot comment on their pro's and con's.
Nigel

 

[Astrobits]

One thing that I forgot to mention is that I have a number of Triton products. As such I have had reason to contact them for faults a couple of times and their service has been exemplary. No quibbles and very quick resolution of the problem ( days). I have no association with this company other than being a bit of a fan of their products.
Nigel