Which digital vernier caliper

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SamTheJarvis":m9px8kgp said:
For woodworking, basically any digital caliper will do.
Unfortunately that is not my experience, hence the post. The pair I bought have over 0.5mm zero error due to the poor construction and allowing the jaws to misalign. I will see what is available at Harrogate but the M&W ones look like a good option
Thanks everyone
Ian
 
Hornbeam":12zmlbnr said:
SamTheJarvis":12zmlbnr said:
For woodworking, basically any digital caliper will do.
Unfortunately that is not my experience, hence the post. The pair I bought have over 0.5mm zero error due to the poor construction and allowing the jaws to misalign. I will see what is available at Harrogate but the M&W ones look like a good option
Thanks everyone
Ian

If you are interested pop and see us at Harrogate you might want to try out our iGaging, my preference is the cheaper EZ Cal range, 14mm tall numbers in the screen becoming more useful all the time :)

Cheers Peter
 
Peter Sefton":2w80cmss said:
If you are interested pop and see us at Harrogate you might want to try out our iGaging

I actually wanted to say in my earlier post that I'd heard good things about the iGaging calipers from when I was looking to upgrade, but I couldn't for the life of me remember what the name was!
 
Trevanion":15wkzvfl said:
sunnybob":15wkzvfl said:
Not if the battery is dead you cant, :roll: :roll: 8)

I keep a couple of spare batteries in the box :wink:. Although I haven't had to change them in the 1.5 years I've had the M&W.

God damn it, Bob! You must've jinxed me as the battery did go dead in my calipers tonight and I didn't have a spare battery like I thought I did! :lol:
 
For those of you who have experienced battery problems with cheap calipers, the answer is to switch from using LR44 (alkaline) batteries to SR44 (silver oxide). The voltage of an LR44 drops over the duration of usage and will soon drop below the 1.25V or so needed to power the calipers. The SR44 has a flatter discharge curve and will remain above 1.5V for 95% of it's life.
 
Simo":4bg0iczv said:
For those of you who have experienced battery problems with cheap calipers, the answer is to switch from using LR44 (alkaline) batteries to SR44 (silver oxide). The voltage of an LR44 drops over the duration of usage and will soon drop below the 1.25V or so needed to power the calipers. The SR44 has a flatter discharge curve and will remain above 1.5V for 95% of it's life.

Work with digital calipers every day and must have tried nearly every model out there including the plastic ones that seemed like a good idea for employees that are less concerned with tool care. I find that batteries last quite well in most but never considered a different type for them so that's really useful info, thank you.

We mainly use sealey ones for about £20. They fare well in an engineering workshop and I don't have to cringe every time someone chucks it on the workbench. They also have timed screen shutoff.

On the upper end I have two genuine mitutoyo ones and they never seem to go wrong although maybe that's because I never let anyone touch them!
 
Bought the EZ , iGaging, calipers from Peter at Harrogate. Excellent advise both through the forum and on the day.
No zero errors and really easy to use
Thanks Ian
 
I bought an imaging 100mm one from Peter 3 years ago. I like the shorter length because when making pens, my measurements were mainly between 8 and 30mm. No idea which range it was but I am very happy with it. Changed the battery once I think in that time.
 
I have the GemRed digital calliper s from Axminster, and after 4yrs i’ve only changed the battery twice and it’s worked great...

https://www.axminster.co.uk/gemred-elec ... per-952910

Buuuuuuut, I use a Mitutoyo digital calliper in work for structural monitoring of cracks and it feels so much nicer to use, much sturdier and better quality feel to the GemRed. When I get a few spare bucks I will be upgrading to the mitutoyo.
 
Now that is weird, I also have a Mitutoyo that I used to measure crack monitor movement between pins, although the centre graph was usually accurate enough.
 
A fellow structural engineer I see. Small world! We don’t tend to use tell tales much anymore, just the stainless steel pins (depending on the type of cracking). I find the Mitutoyo repetably accurate, often within a hundredth of a millimetre
 
Correct, but long retired now and living half the year in France where my workshop is, must admit I never measured to a hundredth of a millimetre, the cracks I used to monitor where usually in the huge range, had to be careful not to knock the structure over. LOL
 
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