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Here's the meat of the other link
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There are 3 bowl coring systems out there, the McNaughton, the Oneway, and the Woodcut. I have all 3 and prefer the McNaughton.
The Oneway is the most expensive. It is on a pivoting center, and the big blade I think is an 8 inch radius. Plus side, it is the most stable for coring big bowls. Down side, it sets up on a plate, which involves a wrench, not the banjo. There is a support finger that goes under the coring blade, which you have to advance for about every 2 inches deep you go. This means turning off the lathe, advance the finger, which involves a wrench, then turning the lathe back on again. Also, you have to remove the tip to sharpen it (you can buy a jig, or just hold it up to the grinder).
The Woodcut is a nice little unit, emphasis on little. The big blade is a 5 inch radius, so, you can core a 12 inch bowl fairly easily. It mounts in the banjo, and you move the tailstock up to the back end, and it attaches there as well. It is on a pivoting center and easy to use. Changing the blades out isn't too bad, but not simple as you have to move both blades. It will chatter a bit on dense woods like locust or osage.
The McNaughton is the only system that is free handed as in you do the aiming. You also have to keep it on track as it does tend to drift to the outside of the cut as you core, which can make it bind up in the cut, and you have to learn how to correct if it drifts off a bit. It has the widest selection of blade shapes, from a straight parting tool to a flat curve blade which is about a 20 or so inch radius. This blade is good for coring shallow platter type forms, or deeper vessel forms, which the other systems can't do. You can probably get by with only the standard set of blades. I use the medium curved blade for about 90% of the cores I take. Randy Privet of Monster tools makes an excellent laser pointer that will go on the McNaughton, and Kelton makes one as well. This really lets you know if you are off course, and need to correct your aim. McNaughton does make a micro set of blades, which are the only coring tools made specifically for the mini lathes. The McNaughton is by far the fastest and most efficient to use, but it does have a learning curve. Mike Mahoney has a DVD, and I do as well. He cores rough turned bowls and returns them later, I turn green to final thickness, and let my bowls dry and warp. Slightly different styles.
All of the coring tools cut as scrapers, and with the exception of the McNaughton micro set, the cutters are about 3/8 inch wide. So, if you can take a 3/8 or 1/2 inch scraper and take a full width shaving, you can core.... But... 1 hp motors are considered kind of minimal, 1.5 hp is better, and 2 hp 220 volt or more is best. Do core on slow speed range, and for first attempts, use some green wood that you don't really care about. Fruit woods have great texture/grain for easy coring, not too hard, not too soft. You don't want black locust for your first efforts.
I just did a 'Saw Dust' session for the Willamette Valley Woodturners in Salem, OR, with the bowl coring systems. The most interest was in the McNaughton, and the Woodcut.
I figure I get about 1 core per 1 1/2 inches thickness of wood. You can take that one last little bowl, but unless the wood is special as in very expensive, and/or sentimental, it isn't worth the effort.
If you sell, it is a necessary tool, you do save time and money. Or you may just need another excuse to buy another tool for the shop.