Which 12x8 Workshop/Shed

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fraser

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Hi everyone,

Firstly, I wasn't sure whether this should go under the other ongoing shed thread. I decided against it as I didn't want to risk taking over the original posters thread. I may not get any replies yet, but thought I would start another.

I am looking into buying a 12x8 cave to have some space at home to work in. Nothing mad, just some basic woodworking in good conditions. I wondered what you peoples can suggest on the options I might consider. It will need the basics putting in after-power for a few bench top machines, decent light, etc. But as for the building, what can I consider? Or has someone already done the research for me and found the best solution?! This is really the biggest I can consider in the space I have.

I will not be making my own-it will be a bought job. Budget wise, open to suggestions but nothing too crazy!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 
Depends how much you want to spend! Sheds labelled as 'workshops' tend to be more robust with thicker framing and matchboarding rather than shiplap. There are loads on the internet with their detailed specifications so you can compare value. We had a local shedmaker who would adapt to your own specification and I ended up with a higher spec at a lower price than a standard model. Garden centres may be useful to go and look at the standard offerings. These days they often do higher quality sheds that serve as summer houses or somewhere to put your sauna or hot tub with approx 40mm cladding but they cost a lot more.

Do you want a wooden floor or will you lay a concrete slab? Check the door size so you can get all that expensive machinery in, often you can get a double door at extra cost. Think about the position of the door so you can handle long pieces of timber. How many windows do you need?

Budget for insulation. I found lining the walls and roof with foil bubble wrap made a lot of difference to the comfort.

Best of luck.

Keith
 
Hi Keith,

Thanks very much for the reply. Re insulation, what did you cover over the bubble wrap with? Do you think it made a big difference? It sounds like you have something similar to what I first had in mind-how dry is yours?

To add to your points and to better my description of what I am looking for: a double door is essential however it doesn't actually matter whether it is on the front or the side as there is decent access both ways. I am looking for a wooden floor and regarding windows, number is not not really that important I don't believe, but location is. At least along one face so I can get some light in, one side will not get any light anyway but the other 2 faces, anything is a bonus I guess. I did have a look at the summer houses although they tend to have a lot of glass, some of which the bottom edge is very low, which then means you can't put anything against it. Having glass all the way round in this way is just asking me to smash one! And like you say they cost alot more.

I think I will at least be in the market for what they call, a workshop shed.

John
 
Hi there, regarding buying a shed, if you put your location in the post then I am sure some one from your area will be able to recommend a good local firm.
 
Hi John,
I bought an allotment shed from these people: Foster Fencing in Romsey earlier this year. Their website will give you a good idea of prices but they don't mention delivery to the IOW - ferry prices are the usual problem as you will know only too well. However, their sheds are strongly made and it's worth a call and may be worth a visit to discuss your requirements with them.

Local to the island I've found Lushingtons but have no experience of them or their products.

David
 
Hi David,

Thanks for your reply. I know of Lushingtons and plan to visit there this weekend, though I found their website last night and it didn't fill me with too much hope to be honest. Otherwise it would have been ideal where it is local.

I hadn't heard of Foster fencing and will definately be giving them a call, they look very good. Like you say delivery may be a problem but this is probably the case for all firms, maybe not the bigger companies. What type of carcass did you go for?

Thanks again

John
 
fraser":jf6rqmsi said:
Hi Keith,

Thanks very much for the reply. Re insulation, what did you cover over the bubble wrap with? Do you think it made a big difference? It sounds like you have something similar to what I first had in mind-how dry is yours?

To add to your points and to better my description of what I am looking for: a double door is essential however it doesn't actually matter whether it is on the front or the side as there is decent access both ways. I am looking for a wooden floor and regarding windows, number is not not really that important I don't believe, but location is. At least along one face so I can get some light in, one side will not get any light anyway but the other 2 faces, anything is a bonus I guess. I did have a look at the summer houses although they tend to have a lot of glass, some of which the bottom edge is very low, which then means you can't put anything against it. Having glass all the way round in this way is just asking me to smash one! And like you say they cost alot more.

I think I will at least be in the market for what they call, a workshop shed.

John
Hi John
I used insulation similar to this http://www.source4me.co.uk/store/store/ ... d_304.html although I bought mine from Focus DIY when they were reasonably good for DIY materials. I lined the walls, door and roof with it using a stapler and it made a big difference to the warmth.

The shed has kept dry but I think the main thing to keep an eye on is the felt roof covering. I also used a good quality preservative (Sadolins) on the outside. I find Sadolins lasts five years on most woodwork unless it is south-facing when three years before repainting is worthwhile.

I expect you have to pay a delivery premium for the pleasure of living on the IOW.

Regards Keith
 
Hello Keith,

Thanks very much for the link and info. How much do you think this helps with noise reduction? Not sure how it compares but I have also recently been introduced to rockwool, will have to look into the differences between the two. As a guess I would say your method is easier to fit and does as good as a job, rockwool is probably also more expensive? Did you insulate the roof and did you do anything to the felt? Or just keeping an eye on it?

Also, assuming I go for the maximum 12x8' size I am looking for any suggestions upon how to lay the shop out. Everything seems to be such a catch 22 whereever you put it, I know space is going to be tight however it gets kitted out but there must be a happy medium somewhere!

Assuming there is windows along one of the long faces, I think my 5 1/2' bench would be best under the windows to catch the light, maybe in the middle of the wall (??). I would probably put a small sharpening 'station in one of the corners, where I don't need much space to work. The same will go for another station for a drill press, disc sander, whatever, in another corner. So these could, in theory, go all against the same wall which would fill it up. I plan to have an overhand planer/thicknesser combi, a table saw and a router table in there also. All on wheels. However all of these need space for infeed and outfeed and it is these which is causing me the most brainache. There won't be a great deal of sheet cutting done, but there will be some, doing some outside when the weather permits would help. But it would be nice to do as much inside as possible. Going to need some storage in there somewhere and these will have to fill the gaps.

Could any one please help on guiding me where to put these machines? I hope I have made my ideas clear enough, they are only ideas at this stage clearly.

Any further help really would be great!!

John
 
fraser":3k54oyy3 said:
What type of carcass did you go for?
I bought a 6 x 4 Shiplap shed and asked them not to treat it. I have painted it inside and out with Cuprinol "Garden Shades".
As I built the shed I used a clear silicone mastic to ensure the corner joints were watertight and, despite some tremendous storms this summer it has stayed completely dry.

Good luck

David
 
fraser":1otp4asd said:
Hello Keith,

Thanks very much for the link and info. How much do you think this helps with noise reduction? Not sure how it compares but I have also recently been introduced to rockwool, will have to look into the differences between the two. As a guess I would say your method is easier to fit and does as good as a job, rockwool is probably also more expensive? Did you insulate the roof and did you do anything to the felt? Or just keeping an eye on it?

Also, assuming I go for the maximum 12x8' size I am looking for any suggestions upon how to lay the shop out. Everything seems to be such a catch 22 whereever you put it, I know space is going to be tight however it gets kitted out but there must be a happy medium somewhere!

Assuming there is windows along one of the long faces, I think my 5 1/2' bench would be best under the windows to catch the light, maybe in the middle of the wall (??). I would probably put a small sharpening 'station in one of the corners, where I don't need much space to work. The same will go for another station for a drill press, disc sander, whatever, in another corner. So these could, in theory, go all against the same wall which would fill it up. I plan to have an overhand planer/thicknesser combi, a table saw and a router table in there also. All on wheels. However all of these need space for infeed and outfeed and it is these which is causing me the most brainache. There won't be a great deal of sheet cutting done, but there will be some, doing some outside when the weather permits would help. But it would be nice to do as much inside as possible. Going to need some storage in there somewhere and these will have to fill the gaps.

Could any one please help on guiding me where to put these machines? I hope I have made my ideas clear enough, they are only ideas at this stage clearly.

Any further help really would be great!!

John
Hi John
Sound insulation with bubblewrap would be very low compared to Rockwool. I did put bubblewrap on the ceiling as well as the walls.

Re the roofing felt it is worthwhile asking for a heavy mineral surfaced felt even if it costs you extra. Wickes do a Super mineral surfaced felt with up to 15 years life. Some shed manufacturers supply sanded felt that is more akin to a base layer than a top layer. At the first signs that the mineral surface is going I renew it because the cost compared to all that expensive machinery below is minimal.

I have my bandsaw, drill press and multi-purpose table all on castors and regularly have to move them around but woodworking for me he is a hobby and time is not money.

Have a look on this site for workshop layouts to give you some ideas.

Regards Keith
 
Hi

I make timber framed buildings for farm animals, although I won't recommend the company as price wise it will be too expensive I can recommend a supplier for insulation. We use http://www.jablite.co.uk/products/show/ ... rsal-board in all our buildings, although we do have it to order at 44, 72 & 95mm. Stanadard thicknesses available are 25 & 50mm.

Hope that helps, one day in the future I hope to be doing the same as yourself so good luck.
 
Hi there

Thanks again for all the replies. Just wondered if anyone has any other recommendations for sound and heat insulation? I have had a look and struggling to come up with the best option.

Also, some recommdations for what to cover the insulation over with would be great. So far I'm thinking 
some 1/2" cheap ply painted white all over, is there anything else that would help with the light in there and look ever so pretty?!!

Thanks
 

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