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woodfarmer

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Working through the pear blanks I decided today to try turning a natural edge bowl, have seen some pictures of interesting objects. The outside is no problem but the ongoing battle to face off the bottom of bowls has become exacerbated with this. I can bore down fine but turning the corner to cut the bottom of the bowl is proving to be difficult. I think the varying edge is depriving me of manoeuvring room. So what is the best way to finish the inside on the bottom? bowl is about 8 inches diameter.

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Hi

Either use a round nosed scraper or have a look at the ground angle of the bowl gouge, (I'd suggest grinding to around 60 degrees - this will allow you to maintain bevel contact but approach the work closer to it's axis). As your technique improves you can revert to a more normal shallower ground angle.

Edited to say - the tool rest looks a little on the high side, but that may be a result of how it's photographed.

Regards Mick
 
Your tool is pointing too high, starting at the outer edge you should be aiming to form an arc with the cutting edge that passes through the centre of the bowl.

And as been said adjust your bevel angle, such that you can maintain bevel contact through the whole sweep.

Spend some time doing this with the lathe stationary.

You may find that relieving the back of the bevel at a sharper angle gives more clearance on the curve without the heal of the bevel rubbing, just make sure you have sufficient working bevel to support the cut.

Whilst you are checking bevel contact with lathe stationary also investigate the effect of rotating the gouge slightly in your hands as the cut progresses, this, dependent upon how the gouge wings are ground can alter the angle of the bevel that is in contact.

One other point, although you have to be firm in the support of the tool, if it is sharp and cutting freely you don't have to grip it like a cold chisel, try putting your left hand under and on the outside of the front end of the gouge against the rest, sometimes referred to as a pinched grip, that way it is easier to traverse the tool towards the centre as you are pushing with you left hand in the direction of the required cut not just holding it down on the rest, the force of the cut will keep the tool on the rest.
 
Some good advice from all above as usual :)

Just to second Chas's point about relieving the heel of the bevel, that should help get the gouge round a tighter bend, as well as all the other advice.

Cheers, Paul
 
As you turn the corner to do the bottom, ie where you are in the first picture, try twisting the gouge with your left hand so the flute is pointing up as you pull your right hand towards you.
 
Steeper bevel, pinch grip, pivot against your thumb and roll the tool tip towards the centre. It is as easy as it sounds once you get into the swing. I used to produce bowls with a sudden ledge until I relaxed a bit too.
Good luck
 
As a novice, I find having a bowl rest that curves inwards and maintains a more even distance between support and cutting edge helps with the smooth curving transition. The straight rest leaves a big overhang at the most difficult part, the point between base and side.

Phil
 
If you have trouble getting the bowl gouge to make a smooth transition from side to bottom then, as already suggested, use a scraper. This is often the case with steep sided or or natural edge where you can't get the gouge handle far enough back without fouling the rim.

I use two forms of scraper to finish bowls....this I was taught by the great Richard Raffan himself.
Sharpen them before each use and they will do the job nicely.
Always use a gentle touch and stop the lathe regularly to check the results.
Use a pencil to indicate high points and scrape off the pencil line.

1. A curved scraper for the transition from side to bottom

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2. An almost flat scraper from the transition to the centre

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CHJ":wc6wfpc5 said:

Thanks, from your pictures I can see I have the cutting edge too high over the centreline. It was a mistake I made believing if the cutting edge was high, a dig (when starting the cut on the wings) would be less serious as a sudden down movement hopefully would reduce the depth of cut. Maybe over analysing. The boring down cut was fine for me, but at the turn I was losing the bevel to rest on so the cutting edge was badly supported.
Usually as I swing out to cut the bottom I turn the flute to face the centre but here I could not bring the handle back to get bevel support for the beginning of the facing cut.

What configuration of gouge are you using for

http://quest42.co.uk/woodwork/nebowl/DSCN2022.JPG

and for

http://quest42.co.uk/woodwork/nebowl/DSCN2024.JPG

Will do a few practice dry runs tomorrow.
 
Plus one more vote for the change in left hand grip. It helps to develop a lighter cut and allow the right hand to slide further back along the handle. And if you can, relax your grip, to allow the right hand to swing in a smooth arc. Words are useless for these prompts, as a few moments watching a demo by a competent hand would more effectively show the idea. Keep trying though, because when you find the right action you will look back and wonder why it seemed to be a problem. Such is the way we learn.
 
Thanks all, especially Chas, I did a few dry runs with the lathe stopped. Amongst other things I realised to some extent I was "painting myself into a corner". by making too quick the transition from side to bottom. started off ok funnelling in to the centre but the when I started boring down the sides I was going too deep before swinging the tool around (pivoting on the tool rest). The picture wasn't one of me turning, just leaning over for my wife to take the pic so you could see what I was trying to do. Re the left hand, I was very aware of teh waney edge and was keeping my hand well away from the toolrest :) I did manage to finish off the bowl inside today by finishing the bottom from the middle out and re joining it to the sides so I could make the turn and take a single sweep from edge to centre of the bottom. There is a branch stump sticking up and I thought to clean the top for waxing. does anyone else have a suggestion for dealing with the branch stump?

Will finish the outside tomorrow.

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