Where did I see this workshop security????

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angelboy

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I don't know if anyone else can remember seeing a way that a guy had secured his workshop/shed whereby he had a metal bar along the inside of the door (like a drawbar or like the ones you see attached to the outside of the door but inside) but then round the side of the shed he had a little locked box/door that allowed access to the bar to be then opened from the outside.

Does it ring any bells?
 
sunnybob":3ug7rlq9 said:
sounds like a lot of work just to end up with one lock anyway.

I can't remember the details really, other than thinking at the time it looked pretty interesting, which is why I want to try and find it again to see the reality lives up to my recollection.
 
But if the internal bar arrangement can be easily moved by undoing the separate lock, theres no difference to having a reinforced door with a 7 lever lock (apart from being a lot less complicated).
 
I can't find it - I was just curious anyway.

Instead of buying one of those bar kits on the internet (which would have been £60+ because the door is 1400mm so I needed 1800mm) I've bought a Unistrut bar with brackets and I'll find a suitable padlock once it arrives. If anything, it's just a deterrent. The Unistrut bar, brackets and delivery came in at £25 for 3m and it's already pre-drilled along its length!
 
sunnybob":3r88kksv said:
But if the internal bar arrangement can be easily moved by undoing the separate lock, theres no difference to having a reinforced door with a 7 lever lock (apart from being a lot less complicated).
But the scrotes won't know that, will they? Have you ever come across a locked door and thought I bet there's a little hatch on the side wall I can get into to pull a bar out?
 
Most serious thieves "case the joint". They will watch and look., but hey, thats just my opinion.
i have fitted enfield locks to my garage doors, at ground level right in the corners, so even a disc cutter would not be able to get in there. Luckily I live in a very low crime area.
 
sunnybob":8tb58qz8 said:
Most serious thieves "case the joint". They will watch and look., but hey, thats just my opinion.

But the vast majority of theft is opportunist - if they're going to case anywhere they'll pick commercial premises with tools worth nicking. Besides which if they can't reach the locks with an angle grinder they'll saw a hole in the door with a battery jigsaw.
I'm sure the best deterent around here would be to put the thieving little barstewards in the stocks for a week for first conviction (I did read somewhere that the average thief was believed to have committed 164 offences before first being found guilty of one) - at least it make a change from their laughing at us. Chopping off the right hand seems to work well in Countries that employ that method.
I remember reading of a judge who just before the abolition of the birch sentenced someone for a particularly violent robbery to a term in gaol with 12 lashes the day he went in so he could show the inmates and another twelve the day he came out so he could show his friends. :D Good man.
 
This is like a sharpening thread :shock: Everyone has their opinion, and all of them are right. i totally agree that penalties are nowhere near enough, but an opportunist thief doesnt carry a battery disc cutter and is going to be put off entering a building (even a shed) by a large padlock. A serious thief (officially classed as "going equipped" is not going to be put off, regardless.
I have photographs of all my tools and cabinets and equipment, and insurance. 8)
 
Luckily I'm also in a low crime area and the occasional visit from the travelling community usually peaks the crime stats. They're the ones that are opportunistic but also pretty prepared.

I think they'd probably go for my garage first rather than the few outbuildings 50m away at the bottom of the garden, which is why I'm moving most of the stuff out of the garage and into the new shed.

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Where I live if I had a shed roof with that overhang that wasn't held down I'd find the roof in next doors garden one morning. :D
I meant the tea leaves were opportunist in the sense that that their victims were random rather than that they decided to go out thieving unprepared on the spur of the moment.
 
I once had a load of rusty old mackerel feathers nicked from a shed. They were hanging across the inside doorway drying out, (about six sets of six). Someone had broken off the padlock, opened the door, then ran off with my feathers??? ignoring all the tools and other goodies???
Funny thing was, the spate of recent shed break ins stopped after that.

Fishing can be very rewarding sometimes 8)
 
phil.p":33866ft6 said:
Where I live if I had a shed roof with that overhang that wasn't held down I'd find the roof in next doors garden one morning. :D


It’s all pretty secure plus it’s lasted all through the last winter and the windy spells.

Once I’ve finished I’ll do a WIP (even thought it won’t actually be in progress).
 
I've layered dacron and rebar mesh inside my doors to jamb blades and drills.. I have an Abus granite padlock on the outside and an alarm.. (130db) when the door is opened you only have a few seconds to silence it with a remote key but on the inside I have chain attached to both doors and a second lock inside so the door only opens a few inches..

I figured if they manage to break the padlock and get the door open then the chain will keep them out long enough for the alarm to trigger..

Also the guy next door has cctv covering his back gate that also covers my workshop doors.. :D

But the best bit is all the tools get marked and photographed for insurance..

Best thing you can do to protect your stuff is to try and steal it yourself.. think like them try and adapt your security to fit.. wired glass and grills/shutters are good too.
 
there is a easy and cheap way for workshop security, all one needs is a car horn the louder the better car opening door switches - the ones that put the light on when the door opens - a car battery and a on off switch so one can shut the alarm off outside the shop, the door switch goes in the door jam then wired to the horn and then to on off switch outside, which is wired to the battery, and the it sounds complicated but it is cheap and effective one can also incorporate a indicator relay to allow the horn to blast on and off . one can put as many light switches in the system is required to fit all doors . long time since I used this method but it is effective,

hope this helps

take care

John
 
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