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What table saw and router table - circa £600

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Franky

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Hi

I was going to bid on the triton work centre on eBay, however given its now at £300 odd, it'll cost me £70 or so to get it delivered, I need to reform my plans.

I'd like a table saw for general DIY(my house is a massive project), where with the right blades its capable of nice fine cuts for making shaker style doors etc.

also a router table, so I can match lots of old beading in the house, again for the doors above and to basically move my skill set on a bit.

Ideally about £600ish for both, however happy to listen to suggestions.

I've already got a router, so budget is for a sensible table only.
 

Jameshow

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Does it need to be portable?

If not then go cast iron preferably 10"

If yes then Bosch DeWalt Makita etc.

Get the best table saw you can and then build a router table....

Cheers James
 

Franky

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Portable would be nice, just as I can then move it around the house etc.
 

Rorton

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I’ve been really happy with the Bosch gts10j and it’s stand. I got a crosscut sled made for it. And also made a router insert to use it as a router table. I did make a bigger router table too, but this is handy when the table saw is setup and you need to route something, you don’t have to setup the other table. My stuff is in a garage so all has to be out away when not in use.

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Franky

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I like that. Looks like a great setup.

I'm looking at this/the xc version/dewalt 7485.

ends up being a minefield. really clever use you've got there.
 

Rorton

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Thanks. The dewalt 7485 replaced the 745 which had a bigger blade, so you will only get 210mm instead of 254 blade so bear that in mind.
router insert plate cost £30 from eBay, and my router stays attached to the plate all the time, I usually use trim router for the bits of handheld I do, otherwise the router in the table. I can just drop in the wooden insert, put the router in with its plate attached, and I’m away. Cut a few rails and styles using this using a 1/4 slot cutting bit

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Franky

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really nice and clean/neat/tidy. Its got me thinking! seems like the sensible way forward.

how do you find the 'fence' on it?
 

chunkymonkey

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About 12 years ago I was in the same position as you re table saw , A good friend of mine who has a lot of experience , told me to get a DEWALT 744!
He said they had perfected the rack and pinion design and it was the most accurate on the market.
I took his advice and bought a secondhand one it is still doing me proud ,and most of my mates have bought one on the strength of this .
They are not cheap but the best never is , buy it use it ,look after it and you will get your money back when you sell it ! if you can bear to sell !!!!
 

Rorton

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really nice and clean/neat/tidy. Its got me thinking! seems like the sensible way forward.

how do you find the 'fence' on it?
the fence was a bit odd to start off with, as you move it it didn’t seem to lock parallel due to the small tolerance needed to slide it in the first place, but I since learned that if you just press on the end of the fence where the lock down is to square it up to the track it runs in, it’s perfect. I’m impressed for a job site saw to be honest
 

Franky

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the fence was a bit odd to start off with, as you move it it didn’t seem to lock parallel due to the small tolerance needed to slide it in the first place, but I since learned that if you just press on the end of the fence where the lock down is to square it up to the track it runs in, it’s perfect. I’m impressed for a job site saw to be honest
did you extend your table also?
 

Franky

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another question, sorry and thanks!

Which router table insert did you go for? seems to be 10000 types around, all with mixed reviews. I've a beefy dewalt 625 router.
 

Rorton

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it was this one.


you will need to drill it to suit, and you may need longer bolts to secure the router to the plate - the ones that attach your current plate may not be long enough - the triton router I had were non metric too which was a pain, so check the tread and length of the bolts holding your current plastic plate to the router

Its been ideal - it comes with 4 magnets to add into your tabletop recess, then 4 grub screws that go into the plate itself to help you level it up, and these 'sit' on the magnets, which goes a solid base for the grub screws o sit instead of sinking onto. the plywood. Use some loctite on the grub screws once you have it how you want it, as they will move through use and it becomes a pain!

When cutting the recess for the insert, place the insert where you want it on the ply, then surround it with offcuts of timber all around to form a fence - this has to be tight up against the insert

Then stick another piece of offcut in the middle to keep the router stable,


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and using a pattern bit (with the bearing closer to the shank) start to route out the material to the height/depth you want it

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the width of the groove I cut matches up with a groove on the insert of the base which I why I chose that width, then just chop the rest out with a jigsaw or router

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PhilipL

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I’ve been really happy with the Bosch gts10j and it’s stand. I got a crosscut sled made for it. And also made a router insert to use it as a router table. I did make a bigger router table too, but this is handy when the table saw is setup and you need to route something, you don’t have to setup the other table. My stuff is in a garage so all has to be out away when not in use.
I am downsizing and have been selling off all my larger tools so looking for more portable replacements. This setup looks exactly what would suit me. I am not sure whether you added the extended fence or whether the standard machine comes with that. There doesn't seem to be anything in the manual about the table being extendable to the right. Could you clarify?
 

Rorton

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hi, its a standard thing on the saw, increased cutting capacity

if you have a look here you can see from pics on the Bosch website that show it


With the extension thing closed up, your rip capacity is 260mm, if you need further, the fence 'clamps' to the extension piece, and then you move that out to get increased rip capacity

in the manual - have a look at the section - Adjusting the parallel guide
 

PhilipL

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hi, its a standard thing on the saw, increased cutting capacity

if you have a look here you can see from pics on the Bosch website that show it


With the extension thing closed up, your rip capacity is 260mm, if you need further, the fence 'clamps' to the extension piece, and then you move that out to get increased rip capacity

in the manual - have a look at the section - Adjusting the parallel guide
Yes, I see it now. I wondered if the one at Screwfix was a slightly different model. Many thanks.
 

Ollyis

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Does anyone know if this kind of mod would work on the Axminster Hobby Series BTS10ST? It has a similar sized extension
 

Rorton

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looking at the Axminster saw, it seems the fence itself moves - where as on the Bosch, the table sort of splits and moves - I'm not sure how much weight the arms will take, and as the fence seems to be the piece that moves, you wouldn't get open access to that end of the table as the fence will be in the way at the end?
 

Ollyis

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looking at the Axminster saw, it seems the fence itself moves - where as on the Bosch, the table sort of splits and moves - I'm not sure how much weight the arms will take, and as the fence seems to be the piece that moves, you wouldn't get open access to that end of the table as the fence will be in the way at the end?
Thanks, the fence flips down 90 degrees so it getting in the way wouldn't be an issue. I think you're probably right on the wight bearing abilities of the arms tho..
 
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