What Ripping blade for Electro B bandsaw 88"

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La Gib

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Hi all

I haven't been here for a while so sorry if this is a well flogged subject.

I have a BAS 315 bandsaw. I think it's pretty rough to be honest but it works.

I would like to rip some timber and oak is included if possible width up to 125mm but around 100mm would be the norm. .

The blade is 88" in length but I am not sure how wide the blade can go up to. The rubber belt that the blade runs on is 20mm wide.

I believe the less teeth per inch is better so a 3tpi blade sound right.

Also would like to upgrade the top and bottom guide bearing units not just the bearings.

Has anyone any ideas or suggestions. :?:

A source of good long lasting blades would be very helpful
 
Talk to Ian at Tuff saws. Tell him the macine and the type of work you do and he will suggest the right blade.

Lot of members here use his blades and swear by them (rather than at them!)

Bob
 
And another one for Tuffsaws.... [email protected]

Ian just sent me two blades for an old 3 wheel Burgess BK1 which I use for roughing out curved shapes....

It used to be a reasonable saw for that sort of work but now...well it's blinkin' brilliant! Because the welds are perfectly done...and finished...there is no clicking anymore...and it runs really smoothly.

I was going to ditch it at a bootfair...I only paid a tenner for it...but with the new blades...it's now definitely a keeper.

Tuffsaw blades literally transform bandsaws...and that is no exaggeration.

Jim
 
Hello! - blades apart, and they are very important - I had a BAS 315 til recently so I know what it can and can't do. My basic rule (discovered I suppose, the expensive way) is take the claimed depth capacity as the stated depth under guides, and assume no more than about 60% of that. Short of buying a massive old Wadkin, or a resaw - ripping 12" hardwood regularly is beyond any machines in the sub £2k bracket. (I am about to be told I'm wrong... I can feel it coming!).
BUT if your usual top-end is about 125mm, that is readily achievable on a sensible budget.
Most here will probably say Startrite. I have a Record Power 500 and it will cruise through the stuff you want to do. Look at the Startrite 502, or the 401. But do look out for a used one in that size-range too. And don't ignore the Record Power ones. My 500 just ripped over 500 feet of 2" ash, and was deep-ripping 6" oak just before that (all on the same blade).
I'll admit the bandsaw is just about my favourite machine. Ripping is one thing bandsaws are really very good at. Table saws are not designed to rip, and certainly not in volume.
Also, get a floor-standing one, as the footprint is really no more than your 315 on its stand, and they often have wheel and a jack so they live against the wall. That is one of many reasons why a bandsaw is a really great machine. My table saw would be virtually useless against a wall.
Last thought - be very wary of the bargain bandsaws... far better seeking second-hand.
Hope that helps a bit.

Douglas
 
condeesteso":1l67uulv said:
Table saws are not designed to rip, and certainly not in volume.

Whoo-hoo! I think lots of people would disagree with that statement! Although if you are talking about 12" DOC then yes, OK, but for most of us, that is serious re-sawing rather than ripping, is it not? A well set up tablesaw with a ripping blade will likely produce a better result than most bandsaws, I suggest. Not the capacity, true, but surface finish, certainly. A 10" saw like mine will happily rip 3" timber, and how many of us regularly need more than that?

condeesteso":1l67uulv said:
Last thought - be very wary of the bargain bandsaws... far better seeking second-hand.

Ah, on that we are agreed.

S
 
Hi Steve - I take your point, others will too. First, for LaGib may I explain that i doubt the 315 will rip 125mm hardwood satisfactorily on a regular basis. I failed to mention that above. It will do it (I have done 6" oak on that machine) but you will get bored.
I am not anti table saws, but for ripping alone, they cannot be first or best choice. Kerf about double, for a start. I know everyone here loves a Tuff M42, but a cheap Silco (for example) blade will rip the heart out of any table saw when we get going. Going is 5" plus I'd say.
Re finish, agreed totally. Off your table saw you are closer to 'finish'. But i don't think that is what ripping is for. Rip'n'finish all in one sounds like compromise to me.
For LaGib - your 315 may well do what you need, in moderate volumes - try a good 1/2" max blade, tune the guides (I wouldn't bother changing them, too much hassle and a great blade will do more good) - and feed steadily. It can do it, good machine but you will be at its limits.
Hot tip ripping!! - do not assume the fence is useful. It needs to be but do the old trick. Lose the fence, take a piece of thin straight waste and free-hand rip along a line. Once the cut is going straight, stop. Bring the fence to the stock, and it will NOT be square to the stock (bet you five quid). Adjust the fence to the stock. The principle is, the back of a rip blade (i.e. a wide one) must not touch the exit kerf on either side. If it did, it would bias the blade, creating drift in the cut. Honestly, in deeper ripping, this is really important.
If none of this is useful or even vaguely interesting then I apologise - nothing at all on TV.

Oh, and the five quid thing - didn't mean everyone everywhere, ever. Just LaGib. But I will win.
 
Hi everyone.

Thanks for the help and replys. I have emailed Ian at tuffsaws and he has sent me some info. Today I am ordering two M42 Blades.

Condeesteso. Every thing you say makes sense to me and I am aware that the ripping process on the band saw will be slower. Good point about the capacity not matcing the distance between the blade and the guide. I have ripped quite a few timbers on the saw and it has been quite good but kills blades. I think I will try the new blades but not expect the answer to all timber ripping.

Jimi43. The click now that you mention it is really anoying it's something I have taken for granted and forgot about, hopefully I will also be click free.

I will fit the new blade and tune the machine up. Once that is done I'll experement with the capacities and take it from there. If it transpires three inch timber ripes best then I shall glue up to create wider boards.

Thanks again

Alan
 
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