vandyke IS a great product when used in the right circumstances. The biggest mistake people make IMO is not understanding how a thicker solution can influence things. Saying vandyke stain is great per se is a bit of useless info if it is not followed on by saying how thick to mix it as that can influence a jobs outcome massively. To this end, its good to see the explanation given in this thread...
What finish over Vandyke crystals?
- Thread starter oakfield
- Start date
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Lofty
Established Member
Mignal, Marcus, thanks for the comments on French polish. what mix (cut) do you two guys use? Assuming you keep it in an airtight jar how long does it last before it is no longer useable? What happens when it is too old?
Mike
Mike
I'm assuming you are referring to just Shellac in Meths and not the easy French Polish.
I use a 1lb cut. That's for French Polishing. If I'm brushing it on I might dilute it further.
How long it lasts depends on a number factors. A 3lb cut will have a longer shelf life than a 1lb cut. Big variations in temperature are to be avoided. As it gets older the stuff takes longer to dry and finally remains 'gummy'. You have a hard time cutting it back with wet and dry as it tends to gum up and clog the paper.
According to the Chemist at Liberon, their ready mixed Special Pale Polish might last 2 or 3 years if kept in ideal conditions. He also stated that it's preferable to decant and exclude air. That came as a bit of a surprise. I'm not sure if Liberon are doing anything special with the stuff to get that kind of shelf life. Usually I discard after 3 or 4 months. Then again I mix from dry flakes and make up small batches for the project at hand. I get very little waste.
I use a 1lb cut. That's for French Polishing. If I'm brushing it on I might dilute it further.
How long it lasts depends on a number factors. A 3lb cut will have a longer shelf life than a 1lb cut. Big variations in temperature are to be avoided. As it gets older the stuff takes longer to dry and finally remains 'gummy'. You have a hard time cutting it back with wet and dry as it tends to gum up and clog the paper.
According to the Chemist at Liberon, their ready mixed Special Pale Polish might last 2 or 3 years if kept in ideal conditions. He also stated that it's preferable to decant and exclude air. That came as a bit of a surprise. I'm not sure if Liberon are doing anything special with the stuff to get that kind of shelf life. Usually I discard after 3 or 4 months. Then again I mix from dry flakes and make up small batches for the project at hand. I get very little waste.
I do it by eye, I put some flakes in a jar then fill with meths till the total height in jar is four times the height of the flakes. No idea what cut that makes technically! For finishing spirit I just dilute with more meths until its a very pale yellow. Not very scientific I'm afraid! RE shelf life etc, just as Mignal says.
BTW old washing up liquid bottles are a great way to store it and dispense onto rubber....
BTW old washing up liquid bottles are a great way to store it and dispense onto rubber....
Lofty
Established Member
OK, thanks for that I'll give it a try. I'm experimenting with various stains and finishes at the moment so I will add it to the list.
Mike
Mike
@MIGNAL
staying slightly off the van dyke topic, i too am a polisher of many years and also think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference with a french polished piece that's had multiple mop coats, left weeks to harden (what a luxury!) then flatted and rubbered - as opposed to many bodying routines. Though for the purists who may use pumice in their rubbers to grind flat in bodying stages and only really get the mop out for turnings and fiddly areas - they would likely scoff at this approach. Both methods should give a flat, hard unsinking finish with minimal difference if executed properly IMO.
Sean
staying slightly off the van dyke topic, i too am a polisher of many years and also think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference with a french polished piece that's had multiple mop coats, left weeks to harden (what a luxury!) then flatted and rubbered - as opposed to many bodying routines. Though for the purists who may use pumice in their rubbers to grind flat in bodying stages and only really get the mop out for turnings and fiddly areas - they would likely scoff at this approach. Both methods should give a flat, hard unsinking finish with minimal difference if executed properly IMO.
Sean
Well yes. This was a real quick trial, largely to see what effect waxy button polish would have. Usually I decant the Shellac so that I'm left with very little wax. This is 6 brushed on coats, all done in one day. very next day - 800G, 1200G, 1500G followed by Liberon Burnishing cream. To be honest it was less than half the effort that I normally go to, I should let the whole thing dry and harden for a few weeks before hitting it with the abrasives.
PS. We will see how much of a difference (if any) once I have concluded my side by side test. I'll try to discern a difference in the hardness/durabilty that a few people have told me exists between the two methods.
PS. We will see how much of a difference (if any) once I have concluded my side by side test. I'll try to discern a difference in the hardness/durabilty that a few people have told me exists between the two methods.
