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Wet rot treatment

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mbartlett99

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Hi,

Just returned from a stint at sea for my darling wife to tell me she thinks there's a problem with the dining room window. She's correct - wet rot has had a good shot at it. I've removed most of the affected wood but the window cill is only lightly affected in a couple of small areas.

So, which products do you recommend for treating the cill and filling the bits that need filling? Also any comments on a good product for preventing before I repaint would be handy.

Oops nearly forgot; can I dry this wood out chemically as its unlikely to be sunny enough after all.

Cheers
 

neilyweely

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Sir

You are only a bit down the road from me, so if you want you could come over and I will furnish you with enough to do your window. I use a 2 part epoxy based filler over a resin hardener stuff, mine is branded but I do think it is the same as wickes stuff. It works well; although I do tend to graft in bits of hardwood to replace larger affected areas. I have done a lorra lorra windows now, so am getting quite good at 'em, even if I do say so myself. They seem to be lasting well with the formula I use.

The only thing I am considering changing in my method is the use of linseed oil. I have heard great things about linseed oil being used over (?) the paint (?) and am gonna give this a go. Or is it mixed into the paint? Better find out first I guess......

Anyway; the offer stands. PM me if you like and I'll give you the address/tel no'.

Neil
 

mbartlett99

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Cheers Neil, will probably be giving you a shout - right now it seems that the problem may be a bit more serious than filling and more to do with going to the timber yard :cry:
 

Mike.S

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+1 for Neil's method.

I cut out the rotten timber; splice new wood in if necessary (just held in place really - the epoxy 'glues' it solidly) then fill any gaps and apply a coat over the entire cill (as a preventative measure - I took the cill back to bare wood) using the epoxy i.e. fibreglass resin and hardener. I found that adding silicoid additive (or wood flour) thickens the epoxy to a gel which means it doesn't run out of vertical gaps or off of a sloping cill. It can be sanded and painted as normal.

The epoxy used was branded the 'West System' but I'm sure any resin/hardener would do just as well.
 
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