OK thanks, rather than trying to machine, perfectly mating cill and frame sections. Would I be right in thinking, I could make the cills top a few mm thicker. Then use a hand plane to plane the top of the cill flush with the frame?Or if I set up moulder properly I should be able to get a precise joint? I know what I mean but may have not expressed myself very clearly on this one.RobinBHM":3iuxijz1 said:Yup, thats the correct way.
Cill say 40mm, top of groove 40mm up.
On inside usually groove 25mm up for windowboard.
It usually works out screwing through windowboard groove to fix cill.
Thanks for that tip.RobinBHM":3se3mx75 said:I think I understand what you mean!
No need for much precision, Ideally make the cill groove about 1mm deeper and wider to allow for paint, silicone and bowed cill.
It doesnt matter if cill is exactly flush with bottom of frame.
Its good practice to put a chamfer or round on top corner of cill groove as a sharp edge is a point of weakness for paint film and in a position liable to peel. The small gap can be filled with a tiny bead of ms polymer paintable silicone.
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