wax sealing for turning blanks

[Random Orbital Bob]

I think my problem is polarised due to the enormous logjam I have. Once I've got through all the stuff I've collected, been given, windfalls etc it should slow to a steady pace and won't be such a problem. For right now though I've got literally hundreds of blanks waiting to be cut from the log or be wasted so the scale is unprecedented.

 

[CHJ]

.. I've noticed the wax doesn't stick properly unless it's nice and hot.

Hence why I get mine just up to, or very close to, fuming point and let the moisture boil off the wood surface as steam, the wax then gets sucked into the surface pores as it cools.

 

[Grahamshed]

I think my problem is polarised due to the enormous logjam I have. Once I've got through all the stuff I've collected, been given, windfalls etc it should slow to a steady pace and won't be such a problem. For right now though I've got literally hundreds of blanks waiting to be cut from the log or be wasted so the scale is unprecedented.

Why is there no emoticon for 'purses lips, raises eyebrows, smiles and shakes head all at the same time while slowly turning green' ?

 

[Spindle]

Hi

Rather than going straight to individual blanks it can make sense to board your stock if you have the facility - stack with sticks and seal the ends.

Regards Mick

 

[Dalboy]

I try and get logs in 6' lengths seal the ends this is great as I can then store them until I am ready to rough turn and reseal. I use emulsion paint to seal as soon as I get home

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I do seal the log ends too Dal. Trouble is they don't dry very quickly when kept in the round
And Mike. I agree that storing the timber in sticker'd boards is ideal. Then I could use it for furniture as well ie I have more options. It's also a lot easier to store because I have limitless outside storage in which I can improvise cover

In fact to that end I've been reviewing Alaskan mills after PaulM and I discussed it some time ago. He uses one and I have no doubt they are the right way to go. Just don't own one yet. Also some of the timber I get in the round is just too small to bother milling in that way. Further the kerf sizes do waste a lot of sometimes very valuable and rare timber. (Walnut and Laburnum being cases in point)

So it's not an either or for me, rather it's both.

 

[jonbee56]

Apologies here for hijacking the thread

I've started using PVA on a 50/50 water dilution. Will it really matter or should it be 100%PVA

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I've experimented (a little) with dilution of the PVA and I found it just gets too runny to stick to the surface in any decent amount if I dilute any more than by about 10%. I can't say how that performs as a water slowing down agent ie is it still doing its intended job but I notice the blank ends look a lot less shiny (once dry) if you dilute much more than that.
I'm taking that shininess to mean the end is sealed well and therefore slowing down water loss.

But like I said there's no way I've measured the difference in any way other than anecdotally so I could be completely wrong.

 

[Grahamshed]

When you buy ready prepared blanks ( and I have done so from more than one place ) they are WAX covered. I'm guessing they do that rather than PVA/paint/whatever for a reason, be it effectiveness, simplicity or a mixture of both.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I bet its related to drying time. Because the hot wax solidifies very quickly as it cools, the blanks can be stored efficiently with little mess

 

[Soylent1]

Thanks Tony. Just one thing, you mention that its more expensive in pellet form, how else does it come?

Sorry for the late reply Bob, I think this question has been answered by other members?

If you do decide to use wax & cooker, and have any questions I'd be happy to help. I don't have many skills but sealing things in wax used to be my thing ( I really am that sad ), and full of useless information on the subject. For example if you give the blank a light dusting of talc before sealing It'll make stripping the wax about a million times easier :wink: :wink:

Tony

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Wow Tony....you are THE wax man

Did you used to be the curator of madame Tussauds by any chance?

 

[bobblezard]

Hi Bob,

YEs I think this is the way forward, I recently bought 5kg from a local craft shop (£20.99) and used an old stock pot and a camping stove to start sealing and as you say it makes large batches lots quicker and cleaner to deal with.

One tip I picked up from another thread was to melt the first layer in with a blow torch and then rewax to ensure good penetration and protection. Not sure this if is overkill but I've tried it with a few pieces that look awkward and that I really want to give the best chance of making it to the lathe.

Good luck, Bob 8)

 

[Soylent1]

Wow Tony....you are THE wax man

Did you used to be the curator of madame Tussauds by any chance?

Unfortunately not, but I always seem to end up working with a load of dummies

Tony

 

[Woodmonkey]

One tip I picked up from another thread was to melt the first layer in with a blow torch

I would be wary about using a blow torch on it, paraffin wax is flammable is it not?

 

[Soylent1]

+1 for the above!
I would be very careful using a naked flame anywhere near it, It's quite volatile when in liquid form. Also there's no reason to have it over about 70 degrees maximum for sealing.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Wow Tony....you are THE wax man

Did you used to be the curator of madame Tussauds by any chance?

Unfortunately not, but I always seem to end up working with a load of dummies

Tony

=D> =D> =D> =D>

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

+1 for the above!
I would be very careful using a naked flame anywhere near it, It's quite volatile when in liquid form. Also there's no reason to have it over about 70 degrees maximum for sealing.

I rather thought Chas's idea of heating the wax to fuming point and then seeing off any water vapour near the edge to be sealed sounded sensible? That would mean the wax would suck into the pores better and the seal would be more effective don't you think?

Also were you in the British Antarctic survey or something? Wondering why you needed to wax core samples....samples of what core?

 

[Wybrook]

Not sure sealing ice cores with hot wax would be too effective ! Cue one big puddle :lol:

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

LOL...you have a point