wax sealing for turning blanks

[Random Orbital Bob]

I've been using PVA to seal my blanks for the past year and its quite a time consuming job to basically paint the end grain. Sticky, messy etc. Starting to dread it.

Commercial blanks are always sealed with wax. I was wondering if other turners use this and if so what exactly is it? Paraffin wax? Also typically who is a good supplier and what does it cost. A quick check on ebay reveals 5kg of pelleted form for £23, but that seems toppy to me? (5L pva = £9)

Also the improvement I'm thinking of is that I simply dip or roll the blank in the melted wax and then once withdrawn, it dries fast without mess or further adhesion. What do people do to maintain a hot melted reservoir of the wax? Heat from below with a gaz type setup or what?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Soylent1]

I used to seal core samples for testing in paraffin wax. Which would work just as well for turning blanks I imagine? It's really just a matter of using an old deep fat fryer, set the temperature to just above the melting point around 60 degrees if my memory serves me correct.? dip it in and its done, you can add a couple of layers if to make sure of a good seal. Although it might be more expensive to buy the wax in pellet form it is re-usable, if you strip the blank for turning just put the stripped wax back into the fryer and leave it for an a while, any dirt or contamination will settle to the bottom. HTH
Tony

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks Tony. Just one thing, you mention that its more expensive in pellet form, how else does it come?

 

[nev]

would it be any cheaper/ feasible to use pound shop cheapy candles?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

interesting idea. Not sure, I guess it depends on what weight you get for your pound. I already get CA from the local pound store because it is the least expensive source. I'll have a look next time I'm in.

 

[CHJ]

I use old candles and keep an eye open for bargain bin sell offs.
I heat wax to fuming point in a large pan and if blank or log end will fit in I immerse for a few seconds and let water vapor boil off a little then lift out. Round blanks get edges rolled in it.
If too big for pan or picking up I paint hot wax on with bristle brush.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks chaps

Was just surfing and found this site

http://www.4candles.co.uk/candle-making ... ainer.html

They do 10Kg for £33 plus I expect postage on top of that, seems about the cheapest I've found so far. I would have thought that candles would be expensive because they've already had the cost factored into the making process ie someones expecting to recoup their labour. Bargain bins would help though.

Thanks for the input all, at least I know what it is now and how to cook it

I'll keep my eyes skinned for inexpensive sources. One of those slow cook ovens would make a good reservoir because they're long and oval shaped so larger diameter bowl blanks would fit in.

 

[Roger C]

Bob give these chaps a call and see if there is a stockist near you, they stock wood sealing products.
Regards Roger C

J.J. SMITH & CO. LTD.
Liverpool, England UK
email: [email protected]

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Stick an ad on your local freecycle for old candles/candle ends. You get all sorts, even scented ones in little glass jars which can be re-used in projects or by other craft people.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Thanks chaps. That's helped me start down this path, much obliged

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've always used old oil based paint on the ends of boards - what's the difference?

 

[chipmunk]

I don't know if you've considered it but I've heard of people recommending using a deep fat frier rather than an open flame to heat the wax. Alternatively you can buy single ring electric hobs for safer use in the workshop.

HTH
Jon

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

the difference is ease of application. Wax dry's the moment its not hot any more which means you can store your blanks in their final resting place within minutes of sealing them. You also don't need a brush ie just dip. So its a lot less messy and less time consuming/no temporary staging area while the paint (or pva in my case) drys.

I'm just trying to get more efficient that's the drive behind this that's all. Ideally I would have a dedicated old slow cooker that lives in the workshop into which my wax goes and then when I'm bandsawing blanks, just have it in liquid form and then process the whole lot straight away. Right now, using pva it takes ages, its pretty much another whole job after the bandsawing and I want to cut that time down. The temptation is you don't get to them til the following day and then checks start to appear in the end grain. This is about the necessary speed to avoid checking.

In fact, I guess the best way is not to batch them at all but to bandsaw, seal, bandsaw, seal that way you have no standing time at all before they're sealed. Right now, I'm certain I'm losing blanks to checks due to too long an open time after prepping.

 

[Grahamshed]

Interesting thread Bob. Do you still stick the blanks for air circulation or just pile them up ?

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Morning Graham

No I don't sticker them, I probably should truth be known but it just seems overkill given they're not great long slabs destined for furniture use. I have checked many times and no mould growth is apparent on adjacent blanks so that's not a problem. A case could probably be made for them not drying as fast but with the best will in the world, I just don't have the indoor space to have the luxury of stickering blanks.

 

[Grahamshed]

Thats good. Don't need to feel guilty about mine then.

 

[Woodmonkey]

I use the pellets, 5 kg lasts me a long time although I'm maybe not doing the volume that you do. I've seen it stated on another thread that cheap candles are not as good as they are not pure paraffin wax so doesn't stick properly to the blank... Deep fat fryer sounds like a good idea or slow cooker, I just use an old big frying pan over a camping stove outside the front of the workshop - its easy to roll even quite large blanks in this whereas you might not fit in a fryer unless you had the wax right up to the top. I've noticed the wax doesn't stick properly unless it's nice and hot.

 

[Grahamshed]

So now I have to tell SWMBO I need a slow cooker in the workshop ???
She will suggest I get a bed as well

 

[paulm]

I used to do the wax method Rob but changed to dipping in sealer or brushing on if too big. Reason being that it was too much effort and time unless doing big batches all at once, and even then delays from cutting all then sealing all weren 't helpful .....

Cheers , Paul

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

thanks again chaps.