Walnut and painted WIP

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Paul Chapman":3k56daml said:
That Walnut looks lovely, Jon.

I agree with Paul, beaut.

Wouldn`t be any bowl sized off cuts would there :-"

Keep the pictures coming, best wip I can remember.

Cheers.
 
Mattty":q24qtwda said:
How well did the joints turn out in the worktop? Looks good, that worktop will be impressive.

The dry run was perfect so hopefully the finished thing will be ok it's still cramped up in the workshop at the moment.

Regards the weight it's heavy ish but I'll make sure I have my weetabix

Paul Chapman":q24qtwda said:
That Walnut looks lovely, Jon. Any particular reason why you use UF Resin to glue up the worktop?

Cheers :wink:

Paul

Only reason Paul is that I generally use uf for making up panels and ive never had a problem and it's got a decent open time to get the clamps on in time

Doug B":q24qtwda said:
Paul Chapman":q24qtwda said:
That Walnut looks lovely, Jon.

I agree with Paul, beaut.

Wouldn`t be any bowl sized off cuts would there :-"

Keep the pictures coming, best wip I can remember.

Cheers.

Don't worry there is a little stack with your name on I'll bring them next weekend :wink:

Cheers

Jon
 
The top glued up fine and first job today was to shape it

Brand new 63mm trimmer in the router

k-1611024x765.jpg


The edges are trimmed to the template

k-1601024x765.jpg


After much sanding it was heaved up to the spraybooth upstairs which was quite an effort.

Is been sprayed with a 30% sheen 2pack Lacquer Its probably a bit shinier in the photos as it had just been coated

k-1621024x765.jpg

k-1631024x765.jpg


Thanks for looking

cheers

Jon
 
Beautiful work and great pictures. Were you at all worried cutting that curve that you'd split the end grain? Whenever I'm doing a job like that I always worry the bits going to catch even with the tinyest cut.
 
Chems":cuv3x1u3 said:
Beautiful work and great pictures. Were you at all worried cutting that curve that you'd split the end grain? Whenever I'm doing a job like that I always worry the bits going to catch even with the tinyest cut.

Yes it's always a bit nerve wrecking doing it. My procedure for doing it was to get the shape close with the jigsaw about 2-3mm from the line . Cut forwards on the curve bit that's going with the grain and carefully climb cut the edges and curve that's against the grain then a full sweep round to tidy it up.

Cheers

Jon
 
Hi Jon
Really inspiring work!
On page 2 of this post you use a 45 degree cutter to make the notches to allow for beaded frame construction. Would you mind telling me where you got the cutter - the only similar one I can find on the wealden site is called a mortar cutter http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Mortar_Groove_80.html. At present we use a 45 chamfer cutter with a pointed end which works but makes it more fiddly and time consuming particularly for clearing out.
Many thanks and keep on posting..
Tim
 
That top looks great Jon. I have found with a new router cutter i get shavings rather than dust when trimming the end grain, it is still always a worry that it will catch though and tear out a big chunk.
 
Hi Jon
Thanks for your reply.
I'll get the Wealden cutter - I've always been happy with their cutters and service.
Keep up the great work.
Tim
 
I fitted the Island unit a few weeks ago but have to wait until the blinds have been fitted before getting some photographs done. This is the unit in the workshop

k-1501024x765.jpg


k-1511024x765.jpg


Been making a drawer liner for the island unit this week in maple as it was thought this would wear better than walnut and provide a nice contrast.

The outer frame is 14 mm solid maple and is a domino construction

k-1561024x765.jpg


The notches for the dividers are done with a simple jig and handheld router to do a 9mm slot. Tried out the new bessey clamps and they work very well

k-1541024x765.jpg

k-1551024x765.jpg


A round over is put on the 11mm dividers and a very shallow tenon is created for a neat joint

k-1521024x765.jpg


k-1591024x765.jpg


Drawer is assembled but the bottom is going to be screwed on from underneath so it can be replaced if it becomes scratched

k-1531024x765.jpg


Cheers

Jon
 
Looks good mate.

Always nice to have all your tools too hand :D
k-1531024x765.jpg


(pot, kettle, black) x
 
Nice work Jon.

Bog roll easily to hand in the last pic for the curved work on the spindle is it?
 
Mr Ed":pk6xdrqv said:
Bog roll easily to hand in the last pic for the curved work on the spindle is it?

& there was me thinking it was keep his bot clean

















His glue bot that is. :D
 
Best thread I have read on here since I joined.

Various reasons for that comment.

Your client was obviously minted and had an eye for detail with the veneered panels inside etc...., The design is not my style but beautiful, the standard of craftmanship is first class, the amount of photos and updates with explanation on each photo was great and generally, thoroughly enjoyed drinking my glass of Rioja and taking my time reading all 7 pages. Well don Jon. You should be very proud of that job.
 
Only just found this thread and read it through from beginning to end. Just like a good novel I couldn't put it down. Stunning work Jon and so much to learn from the copious detail in the photos. Really inspiring. Thanks so much for posting.

Can you be a little more specific with regard to the spray finish on the Walnut? Which brand of lacquer did you use? What needle size on the spray gun? I'll want to attempt something similar on oak veneered end panels with my Earlex 5000.
 
Thanks Roger and Greedo.

Roger the walnut was sprayed with Morrells A/C lacquer http://www.morrells.co.uk/products/wood/17 if you look at the link I use the ones with the 440 code but they are all pretty much the same. Spray setup is a Fuji q4 with a 1.4mm nozzle setup and the lacquer sprayed with no thinners although you can add about 10% ac thinners if needed for your setup.

Hope to get back with a photographer soon to get some pics of the finished kitchen.

Cheers

Jon
 
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