Wall of Shelves

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oakfield

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I have a large shelving unit to build
It covers a full wall and goes around a doorway, with a cupboard on one side.



I will be building separate units and fixing them together with a face frame on the front.
The units will be made from 18mm mdf, with a 6mm mdf packing piece between the units, which will also act as a tongue to locate the face frame (an idea shamelessly stolen from on here!) which will be 2x1 par.
It will all sit on a 6x1 base

Does anyone have any comments or advise on this?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Allow room in your design for scribed edges to the face frame along the walls and ceiling and check it in advance for plumb or level.
Also allow for some sort of anchoring method to the walls and between each unit that has some 'float' in it.
Admittedly I've not built something this big but feel that as whole it should have a bit of elasticity in it.

Looks good
Marko
 
Thanks for that suggestion Paul - it never really crossed my mind that the timber could shrink and alter my perfectly leveled base!

Marko - i have allowed 3x1 for the sides and top of the faceframe, which should give me enough to scribe them and leave enough to look good.
I wasn't planning on fixing to the walls as i think they should stay under there own weight along with the caulk around the faceframe and also, due to being right to the ceiling, there isn't enough room for them to tip.
I was going to fix the units to each other at the front edge and not at the back to allow for a little 'wiggle room'.

I've not done anything this big before either, which is why i welcome any comments or suggestions.

Thanks,
Mark.
 
You definately want to fix them to the wall, its easy with that 6mm gap just use an angle bracket or three before you place the next cabinet. If you have a 2" gap at the top which you will with a 3" faceframe there is nothing to stop them tipping, maybe not actually falling but that will depend on the depth.

I'd also faceframe it in MDF as the swd is likely to move unless you have kept it in a centrally heated room for several weeks.
 
Your right they probably wouldn't tip, especially when loaded. Just belt and braces really for very little effort.

I'm recalling an exploit when I was not much older than 4 and I decided to scale the north face of some shelves dad had put up in my bedroom. They held up but he wasn't best pleased! Ar there children where this is being put up? Might there be? I know, I know. I'm going h&s loopy.

Best with the build.
 
There is one shelf 930 wide, most of them are 570 wide, but at 330mm deep and 42mm thick, laminated from 3 sheets of mdf i don't think they will sag.

Good points about fixing it to the wall and as you have both said it will be easy to do so it would be silly not to.

Jason - I did think of doing the face frame in mdf but I've always felt that a couple of the reasons for putting a face frame on are to get rid of any mdf edges and protect the delicate corners of the mdf which is why i went for real wood. I will rethink that now though, as I know you are an expert with this type of build and i value your opinion and advise.

When you do this type of build i guess you spray before fitting? How do you touch up any damage or scuffs caused while fitting, or are you just very careful? or do you hand paint so it's easy to touch up?

Thanks again,
Mark.
 
I'm no expert but I am in the process of making quite a lot of bedroom fittings using MDF. After messing around with many alternatives, none of which I found satisfactory, I now use iron on edging on exposed edges, whether they will be seen or not. Despite an initial outlay for some decent edging in both Wood and Melamine and the trimming tools It has made things a lot easier in the long run.

HTH
 
MR MDF face frames will be more durable than 2x1 softwood and you don't get such a fluffy edge as standard MDF. But if I need durability then beech works well.

Yes I hand Paint

J
 
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