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Steve Maskery":35yyc284 said:
sometimewoodworker":35yyc284 said:
Also For the Inca bandsaw another way that you adjust for blade drift is by changing the angle of the fence relative to the blade, the rip fence is designed to be adjustable to some degree.

No, no, no. I'm sorry but this is wrong.

It is certainly true that you CAN compensate for drift by skewing the fence, but it is a very poor solution, because it makes the mitre slot unuseable. OK if your table doesn't have a mitre slot then I accept that it is OK to do this, it makes no difference.

But if you have a BS with a mitre slot and want to use it, then the blade MUST be tracked to be parallel to the mitre slot AS WELL AS the rip fence, and the only way you can do this is to have the rip fence parallel to the mitre slot (which is what those adjusting bolts are for!) and then track the blade to both.
Well I've been using both a slightly skewed rip fence and the mitre fence in its slot for the last 40+ years, so my experience disagrees with what you claim.

And yes the top wheel of course is adjustable in angle. But THERE IS NO WAY to use that to change blade drift. The only thing that does is to get the blade to track correctly over the edge of the tyre or incorrectly on the tyre. Any adjustments to the wheel angle change the positioning of the blade on the tyre.


As I have said what you say applies to the majority of bandsaws. It does not however apply to the Inca.
 
Steve Maskery":1f9ng2uu said:
Here you are. It's all greatly exaggerated for clarity, of course. The black rectangles are the blade in section. You can see that even though the wheels on the left are flat, as soon as the top wheel is tilted it puts the blade in almost exactly the same position as when the wheels have a crown. It makes very little difference on small machines like ours.



There are not that many things on which I really do know what I'm talking about, but bandsaw setup is one of them!


Sorry your illustration is showing a wrong setting for the flat tyre Inca. The blade teeth run just off the tyres on both the top and bottom wheels when correctly adjusted. So while the blade on the top wheel could easily be correct, the position on the bottom wheel is not. To be correct the blade will be positioned to the right in a similar place to the top wheel position.

The video under looks as if the blade setting is correct though I can't be 100% sure

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLgSoyvMWTo
 
As I've said many, many times before, it doesn't matter where the blade rides. What matters is that there is no drift. If your blade sits with its teeth off the front and still tracks true north then that is fine, that is where they belong.

The point of my illustration above however, is that tilting a flat wheel and tilting a crowned wheel have virtually the same effect.

If you are saying that your fence is skewed away from true north, so that the fence and the mitre slot are not parallel, yet ripping and crosscuts are, nevertheless, despite being pushed in different directions, cutting true, then you have a very special machine there. I do not understand how that is physically possible.

But this is a wainscotting thread. Can we please get back on topic? I'm getting tired of repeating myself.
 
Right o.
Wainscot - I'd apply finish, whatever it is, only after it's all been installed with every last detail. Otherwise you'll get all sorts of changes from one batch to another, and it's much easier to paint (etc) when it's fixed.
 
Jacob":ry82vfp0 said:
Right o.
Wainscot - I'd apply finish, whatever it is, only after it's all been installed with every last detail. Otherwise you'll get all sorts of changes from one batch to another, and it's much easier to paint (etc) when it's fixed.
What about potential white bits showing up if the panels shrink?
 
I'm planning to use Osmo. It needs two coats, so I was going to apply one coat before installation and the second in situ. Does that sound about right to you, Jacob?
 
Steve Maskery":1sxnfhcl said:
I'm planning to use Osmo. It needs two coats, so I was going to apply one coat before installation and the second in situ. Does that sound about right to you, Jacob?
Nope. Fix first, clean up, then finish. The fixing very likely will disturb any finish previously applied and very likely will show up.
 
monkeybiter":1709xvln said:
What about potential white bits showing up if the panels shrink?

I've heard them called "grins", when a panel shrinks and the bare wood then grins at you. I generally finish panels prior to assembly, not fully finished, but enough to prevent grins.
 
I've been making slow progress on this, but progress, nonetheless.

The first few boards I nailed in place, over three horizontal piece of 2x1 screwed to the wall. But it does mean nailing in a funny position, and if I tilt my head my contact lenses fall out. It's not good to be grovelling amongst plaster dust to retrieve them. So I went out and bought a compressor and nail gun. I should have done it years ago, it's brilliant.

The boards went up quickly, some trim over the top and underneath that, and a radiator cover which is an integral part of the design. I've bought some French Cane to use for the vent panels themselves.

It's all quite dark, which is what I wanted, so these photos are rather over-exposed, and they make it look a bit motley, I think. It does look better in the flesh, honest!

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I'm really pleased with the nailer. The nails are set perfectly every time. Most of them do not need an filling at all, mainly because I can't actually see them, they are so discreet. There is just one that twinkles a bit and another I fired too close to the edge and it has poked through, so I've had to punch that back. But the damage is tiny and I think I don't need any filler, just wax will do.

I've also made skirting to match, but I can't fit that until I've got rid of all the old floor.

This decorating project has been going on since July and has been dragging me down. But now I am starting to make it look better every day, rather than worse, I'm getting motivated to get it done. Carpet down before Christmas.
 

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LOL!
The (new) radiator was white and I didn't want it grinning through the cane panel, so I sprayed it brown. The top cover and ends come off, so I removed them and sprayed them on the floor in front of the radiator. It's come out lovely.

I've left the old floor down as long as possible as I hope to keep the underlay fairly intact. Unless the carpet man says it's a bad idea, I want to use is as underlay for the underlay. It will add a few mm of extra cushioning.

Incidentally, that laminate flooring there is on a layer of underlay, which is sitting on a previous laminate floor, which is sitting on its own layer of underlay!
 
Coming along nicely, Steve.

Pete

p.s. are you turning into :norm: ? :wink:
 
That looks excellent, the dark brown seems perfect.
Now you've got some in place, and it looks so good, if you find yourself taking a downhill stroll maybe take a break for a day or two and I guarantee that when you return to the job and look at what you've achieved your motivation will flood back, along with a proud smile.
 

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