wadkin table saw rise and fallproblem

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davem62

Established Member
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26 Nov 2010
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Location
pontefract west yorkshire
hi ,have just purchased a 10ags table saw which had been reconditioned and was all in good working order having travelled 150 miles to collect and after checking the motor and arbor over all looked fine until i tried to lower the blade which was at full height. this was impossible the winder works ok and the worm drive removes the backlash of the teeth but will not lower.the tilt mechanism is fine.so after renegotiating the price decided to buy anyhow.the owner had only used it a handful of times and had left the blade at full extension in a unheated garage so thought some penetrating fluid on all pins and slides may do the trick.am leaving for 48 hours but if that fails and i have to dismantle, is it best to remove the table top ,or work from underneath. also are there any special tools required.
many thanks dave
 
I don't want to state the obvious but you have loosened the locking screw haven't you?
 
Thats the one, so has it got jamed with offcuts of wood mine is always collecting scraps around the scriber belt and pullys?
 
no chris the saw is spotless , the previous owner had hardly used it all the workings inside are all clean and hardly any sawdust at all ,he's used it about 5 times in 3 years
 
Dave, I've got the same problem with my ancient AGS. The extension wings come off with three bolts each, dead easy, just make sure you support their weight RIGHT FROM THE START or you'll strip threads. Motor ditto, support and care. Turning the saw unit upside down,the bottom - pressed steel - pedestal is also straightforward, four bolts and packing pieces. This is as far as I've presently got. The top seems to be held by four more bolts, sortof accessible, and I think our problem will be more obvious when we remove the top and expose the trunions etc. I'm hoping for mild weather this weekend to decapitate mine and suss out 'what next?'.

Sam

PS Where are you in Ponty? There was an AGS in Womersly Road for a long time on Ebay. Bloke wanted a bit much, but I don't think anyone took him on; might be open to approach?
 
Hi,

If I remember correctly, there are some gib screws that adjust the play of the rise & fall mechanism found in the back of the trunnion assembly. maybe these are too tight or rusty.
I believe you can reach there from the open side of the cabinet.
 
WadkinAGS.jpg


Does this help
 
sammy i'm in carleton ,didn,t see the one from knottingley or may and gone and had a look,this one came from carlisle it has a new clarke 2hp motor and the guy paid 120 pounds just before christmas to have a new soft start switch fitted,pity he didn't use it a bit more before selling. i wil try and loosen the gib screw suggested by cerdeira and see if that helps,it may take some of the pressure and get things moving if not the tops coming off.
ps sounds like you have some local knowledge of ponty.


yes katellwood thanks very much
 
davem62":1xeqd82m said:
bob
sorry for the late reply, but work gets in the way at times. thanks for the thread lead and will read up before starting tomorrow

many thanks dave


Yes I used to have that problem. I've given up work now and things are much more relaxed! :lol:

Bob
 
problem solved

many thanks to every one

first i took r/h side table extension to allow better access and slightly slackened the gib screw suggested earlier , alas this made no difference ,then off came the motor to see if a reduction in weight would help but no joy so i took the complete table off next. after cleaning out a little saw dust, at the base of the riving knife bracket, is the bottom pinch bolt for the riving knife height adjuster which was missing, great this is the problem but no still seized ,so now is the time to strip all the trunnion and motor bracket down,first job is there is a small plate about 40mm wide and 100mm long which allow the motor bracket to be held against the trunnion and has the brass play adjusting screw tapped into it. the 2 13mm held bolts removed and the spacers behind fell down but the flat plate had stuck to the sliding face of the motor bracket alight tap and the plate is off and full height adjustment now possible, it seems because of lack of use and damp the sliding faces had stuck together and the worm drive had not got the torque to over come this ,although i would rather do this than risk damaging the teeth.

the plate that was stuck i think is like no 17 in the diagram above although mine is a plate with spacers and not a complete unit as in the picture.

sam,
will try and post some photo's of the strip down if this helps ,just need to work out how to do it.

all the best dave
 
Thanks, Dave. I had to work this morning, then air the womenfolk, so got no dust and grease time at all. Will try tomorrow to follow your lead.

Sam
 
SUNDAY

Dave, I followed exactly wot you wrote above, and I sussed out each piece as you did, motor off, No 17 part removed (Gawd, see the gunk behind that!) etc, etc. I've got some photos to complement things, post them later when I have resized them. I DO have a bigger problem than you though and it's that the thrust bearing (poss. No 46 in drawing? ) seems to be allowing axial play on the shaft No44 in the sketch. The rise and fall handle now winds smootlhy in its rotation, but about 2/3rds way through, toward lowest position, handle continues to rotate, but trunion assembly stays where it vertically is for a second, then drops an estimated 2-3mm, clunk, before continuing. Simultaneous to this, the said thrust bearing drops it pants and does a quick moon...I mean, it extends from its housing and the balls are plainly visible, whereupon it snaps shut again. Hmmmmmm.....

I'll try to get to photos after tea, but the Financial Controller and her First Born are hassling me to get PC use. Taa raa!!

Sam
 
Right, Dave et el; here's where I've gotten to. The motor and its support bracket are off and so are a few miscellaneous bits

Firstly, two for Peter G Denmark: his missing ironwork.

6744617713_cdedd3c559.jpg


6744620985_89303f1dd5_z.jpg


Now, for Dave:

Turn 'er upside down and you can see the six bolts holding the pressed steel plinth on and the four holding the table on..."Get 'em off!"

N.B. the two table nuts nearest the cameraman's feet will only fully screw off if you lift the cast iron shell as you unscrew. Might need a buddy for safety, lest you nip a finger? I was alright, but I'm a Kamikase, 17st, impetuous, ex-rugby player (translated = ejit).


6744584355_7ecd635311_z.jpg


Ah! FAR more room to work.

6744587123_0837eed081_z.jpg


Now we're cookin' on gas!

6744589859_3e2db3526a_z.jpg


Jeez, there's SUCH a load of gunk and S-H-one-T in there...

6744592507_e7582dd7a0_z.jpg


Here's me horrible bearing behaving itself

6744624663_ae51e2e32b_z.jpg


An' here's it showing its undies to everybody...I bet the sawdust can hardly wait to get stuck in there..

6744628295_37e152d5c5_z.jpg


I managed to complete the breakdown with the aid of a high-intensity torch (invaluable) WD-40 (inevitable) and judicious application of an FBH...(indespensible).

More pikkis later in the week. I've yet to decide if I'm replacing the bearings and the degree to which I will paint the beastie. I must say I am tempted to show Shane Whitlock and Jack 613 on OWWM that the Belfast Shipyard can still inspire good things

Sam
 
sam these are the photo's i took you can see that the plate guide plate for the rise and fall mech is the same as peter denmark, and i believe my saw to be a1990 model as this is stamped in the table top. also all the bolts are metric.
now starting to re-assemble ,just waiting for new drive belts to arrive and then check everything is ok before putting top back on.

i,ve change the table bolts to hex cap screws so with a ball-end type allen key should be a lot easier to tighten up and adjust
 

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Many thanks Dave. You've got a couple of nuts'n'bolts more than me and I'm glad I saw 'em as I was wondering how some pieces related.

There was obviously either a transition period in the '60's with a hodge-podge of different bits, several variants of the same model, or a combination of both? My model is (I think) exclusively Whitworth era fastenings, yours is all Metric, yet has the same basic components? Your spindle looks a little different too. Later models had a squarer fence housing with a possibly better mechanism.

I am still swithering over where to go next. I hope to use Saturday/Sunday to evaluate that spindle and its bearings, then form a plan.

Sam
 

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