wadkin PK restoration

[wallace]

Spent a good while prepping the saw today, all the little dings and casting inperfections sanded.

Then a good hoover of the workshop and extractor on for an hour ready to zinc prime.

I also cleaned up the wadkin writing with a dremmel

 

[wallace]

Sprayed the saw today, Not too happy with the paint. When I got the paint mixed I asked for some matting to be added so the paint wasn't glossy.

 

[wallace]

Update, managed to get the tilt mechanism put on. It was pretty heavy. Then started putting the bits that are done back on.

I have found a problem with the tilt gears. I did not remove these, just cleaned them in situ. When I turn the wheel to tilt, it does not feel right, very stiff. I dont know what it should be lubricated with if anything. After a couple of goes I noticed a brightness on the brass screw gear and a little swarf. Now thats not correct is it.

There is no adjustment that I can see, there are two nuts on top of the screw gear but I cant see how they could do anything. Any ideas anyone?
Do you think it should be greased?
Mark

 

[dickm]

Not sure, but it looks from the pictures as if the worm is not exactly tangential to the gear wheel. I THINK this would cause the teeth/worm not to mesh correctly, making the movement very stiff and the gear will in effect be trying to grind the brass worm to fit? But don't know how you would adjust to correct for this.

 

[wallace]

Hi Dick, It all seems to move freely when it doesn't have the weight of the motor and tilt. It moves pretty good at first then stiiffens up. I cant see how to adjust it.
Mark

 

[wallace]

I think I may have sussed it. I found the manual and it says the worm gear should be greased. Will give it ago tomorrow.

 

[tool613]

Mark

I can't see if you have the motor back on ? the tilt on the pk is well balanced in the first half of rotation. If you don't have the motor in that will make it hard to rise the trunnon/ blade enclosure(the weight of the motor helps with the tilting balance). the wheel is big for that reason(not like you are tipping a 10" blade). and with mine it takes two hand to get from about med way to 45 dregs. I think the manual is talking about the rise and fall bull grear for grease. You do not want to lube the open works there as it will gum up with dust(Wadkin went to the trouble to make that oil bronzes gear so grease was not needed). Try a dry lube or like i did spray it with T9.Oil on the trunnon after a good spray with T9 is the place for oil(light machine oil like 3in one). The Pk is a Pattern maker saw that is built to engineering standers and tolerances. everything fits very close so it's a little stiffer than you may be use too. It should be stiff but smooth.

the saw is looking very nice so far Mark. I have been hard at work in the shop on a big job and i have not have the time to comment. I have be looking in on you . I am enjoying watching you work on the best saw every made.Welcome to the PK club.

jack
English machines

 

[wallace]

Hi Jack thanks for the input, My first thought was as you say dont use grease on the worm gear because it will collect dust and gunk up. When I turn the wheel it feels grindy? I had a look on daltons site for the PK manual and it says grease for the worm gear. And grease for the gearbox on the blade raise.

http://www.daltonsmachines.com/uploads/ ... Manual.pdf

What do the two nuts do on top of worm gear, is it purely to hold the shaft or does it alter anything?

Mark

 

[tool613]

Mark

The oiler on the face of the the crank casting runs to an oil bath just below the bronses grear(this could be full of dirt). the 2 nuts on top (one a jam nut) hold the gear to the shaft. Do not grease the bull grease but only the gears under the bronzes gear. I would take it apart and clean the oil bath.

Was the oil cap missing in front ?

jack
English machines

 

[wallace]

Hi Jack thanks for that. I will take it to bits and clean, see if that improves things. I gave the handwheels a few coats of paint, it took longer to mask them up then to paint.

Mark

 

[houtslager]

looking damn good so far

K

 

[wallace]

Thanks K, A little warning to anyone wanting to put bits of painted metal in the house oven to harden off. Don't do it the wife really does not like it.
Mark

 

[SammyQ]

Mark, you are married how many years and you have only now discovered this.....? :-"

Sam

 

[houtslager]

PMSL

KPMSL


K

 

[tool613]

Speaking of hand wheels::::::::::::::::::::

this joke come to mind.

A ship captain go into the bar with the ship wheel down the front of his pants.

The bar tender asks" What with the ship wheel in the pants"?

Captain reply's "ARRRR she driving me nuts"

ANON

 

[wallace]

Sam weve been together 23 years but married 11. I'm the one that does the cooking, so thats why I think I've got away with it for so long. It was a bit smelly. She doesn't normally notice when I put bits of metal in the freezer to shrink or oven to expand them.
Jack dont give up your day job :lol:
Mark

 

[SammyQ]

Mark, I quite sympathise, really. I 'm trying to decide if I dare buy some ashphaltum and turpentine to re-japan an old Bedrock plane I picked up years ago and for which I need the oven to polymerise the japanning...Its electric, the oven I mean, so no risk of ignition of vapours, but I can't guarantee the same will hold in human terms if I do it without clearance from Meggie [-( .

Sam

 

[jimi43]

Mark, I quite sympathise, really. I 'm trying to decide if I dare buy some ashphaltum and turpentine to re-japan an old Bedrock plane I picked up years ago and for which I need the oven to polymerise the japanning...Its electric, the oven I mean, so no risk of ignition of vapours, but I can't guarantee the same will hold in human terms if I do it without clearance from Meggie [-( .

Sam

Hi Sammy...

The recipe I have for cold japanning is asphaltum and marine varnish. Do you have one for "hot" japanning?

Jim

 

[thick_mike]

Mark, I quite sympathise, really. I 'm trying to decide if I dare buy some ashphaltum and turpentine to re-japan an old Bedrock plane I picked up years ago and for which I need the oven to polymerise the japanning...Its electric, the oven I mean, so no risk of ignition of vapours, but I can't guarantee the same will hold in human terms if I do it without clearance from Meggie [-( .

Sam

I would not count on it. The ovens we used in the paint industry were all EX rated. Non EX rated ovens definitely have a risk of explosion.

 

[SammyQ]

Mick, point taken.

Jimi, there are various brews around; most centre round a slow drying organic solvent evapourating, leaving behind the dissolved, or suspended, ashphaltum in a solid state. Some authors - Derek Cohen for one - have speeded up the proces by using heat. In Derek's case, this was of course the blistering Aussie sunshine, but I think a hotplate borrowed from work, on a long extension lead, in the open air, might be safer and emulate the Perth infra-red. Belfast just does not have the solar cachet needed.....

Sam