wadkin pk restoration

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wallace

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I sold my beloved pk recently so to cheer myself up I bought another one. The old one had really big tables and took up a lot of room in my shed. This one is normal sized.

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Its a rough old thing

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This one dates from 1941

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some one never believed in extraction

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Im surprised the tilt and raise still worked

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Farmer Giles

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Nice one Mark :) did it come with any accessories?

I haven't touched my PKs or those qudrant castings yet, still working on the kitchen.

Cheers
Andy
 

wallace

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It came with a fence and a nice brass crown guard but no mitres. I took one of those quadrants to a local engineers to price up machining. £3OO per section :shock: It would be cheaper the more done.
Its suffered some damage with a cast lug being knocked off. On later pk's this is attached with a hinge bolted on.

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I thought it would be safer to cut the pin then risk break the other lug, it took ages to hacksaw through with only an inch of blade stroke.

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78 years old and comes out pristine

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The part must of been put in place drilled and tapped and not moved

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Original paint under the tag

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First time I've seen witness marks on a wadkin

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To remove the handle just drill the peened over part and give it a wack

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Bondo time

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Everything disassembled and in its own box

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Farmer Giles

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Once I have all the carcasses for the kitchen built and no longer need the temporary bench for sheet material, I'll get one of the PKs up into the workshop and start looking at the quadrant castings. I think I can do them myself, with advice from my toolmaker neighbour. If it goes according to plan I'll give a shout if you want yours doing.
 

Trevanion

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Whaddya reckon Wadkin and other manufacturers used to coat the screws that made them come out so pristine? Some kind of light grease or oil? It was something I was wondering when I rebuilt the Multico Thicknesser and was putting it back together, I just put a load of grease on all the screws when I put them in.
 

wallace

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Trevanion":332yv5ut said:
Whaddya reckon Wadkin and other manufacturers used to coat the screws that made them come out so pristine? Some kind of light grease or oil? It was something I was wondering when I rebuilt the Multico Thicknesser and was putting it back together, I just put a load of grease on all the screws when I put them in.

Theirs never any residue of oil or grease just as if the threads were cut yesterday. Maybe the whitworth thread is a tight fitting thread. Another thing I've noticed is bolts are never over tight
 

Trevanion

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I suppose Wadkin would have been actually making their own screws to tighter tolerances than you could’ve bought off the shelf.
 

wallace

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This is the stuff I use for filling. Its a lot denser than normal filler plus I like the finish.

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wadkin on tiptoes

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Lots of casting crud to remove

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I thought I's treat myself to a new mop, not impressed. Its made from different types of recycled fabric. I cant imagine nylon is going to work on a mop

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Because I'm painting the base with the trunnion arms in place I thought I'd clean the bolts up first and then mask them off.

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A bit primer will help highlight any bits I've missed

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Trevanion

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I'm loving it already, but what I'm secretly coveting is all those drawers you've got in the background :lol:
 

wallace

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one of the best things I bought for my shed, Found one for sale on ebay and the guy had another 6.
I painted them wadkin grey of coarse
 

Trainee neophyte

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wadkin on tiptoes

I see what you did there.

We will need the full photo montage of Wadkin puns, please.

Wadkin on sunshine.
Wadkin dead (I think you may done that already)
These boots were made for Wadkins
...and many more.
 

wallace

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Deadeye":20zv4qpd said:
Can I ask a dumb question please?
What's the process/products to get those bolts so shiny?

I used to glue various grades of sandpaper on a board and then sit comfortably listening to the radio whilst sanding each flat of the bolt until you've gone to about 6OO grit the further you go the better the finish. Then just polish with compound on a mop. I've tried lots of compounds and the best for me is silverline red. The kits you get with different compounds are pants.
I've just glued some Velcro to my little disc sander so I can change the abranet. You just have to remember not to take too much off or your spanner wont fit :D
 

wallace

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The handwheels are a bit crusty

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Stick it on the lathe spin and clean up with a flapper disc on a grinder

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Go through the grits

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The bone handles are rough but they clean up lovely

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To fill in the bottom of the lettering I leant it over and used a 2 pack high build primer

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Followed by top coat

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My spraying was not as good as I'd hoped

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I mixed too much 2pack paint so sprayed some drawers I had in my stash. I really like the bisley type drawers. These will be great for spindle moulder tooling.

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I went around the electric enclosure door wording with a Dremel

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I never had a spanner big enough for the but so stuck it in the vice

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And a big bar and stilsons to loosen it

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This was a bit disappointing, to get original SKF bearing is £25O

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wallace

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After much searching I found some replacement bearings, to get original spec for the big one was too expensive for my little wallet so I had to go for a pressed steal I did manage to get a Hoffman for the other end. £1OO for them both which I'm happy with.

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The motor went together really easily with the bearings being a push fit.

I made some stuff shiny

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I then got stuck into the frame that supports the sliding table.

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When it was first built, it was set up at the factory and each eccentric pin had a hole drilled to hold it in place. Assuming no ones swapped things around I should be able to put it back to factory spec.

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The bearings are good quality but seized solid. Replacements are about £14 each so I will stick these in a bathe of evaporust and see what happens.

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The pins cleaned up ok

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There are 6 plane bearings which are used to adjust any lateral play in the slider. I'm surprized the pins aren't snapped because they are very hard and brittle with a very small eccentric head which the bearing runs on. You can also align the double mitre to the blade using these.

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I presume this frame was planed

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Next up is the bit that holds the motor mount and pivots to achieve different cutting angles. Its quite a lump

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It had lost a hinge lug at some point

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I thought the easiest way to fix was to put a rod in and weld over the top and then drill the rod out

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Not pretty but a grinder and filler will fix that.

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It worked

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The fence is in good condition.

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To get the pins out you have to drag them out with a bolt. On later models the pin holes go all the way through so you can knock them out.

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