Wadkin AGS10 restoration

[Krysstel]

Fairly sure I've got the old manual on an email somewhere but in the meantime. Parts 37 and 37. Are they the 2 bolts you can just see through the front opening ? Too late if so. I slackened them off and then tapped the housing apart to see if that solved my dilemma, which it didn't ! Anyway managed to pull the flanges back together again with the same 2 bolts so hopefully no harm done.
Will hunt for the missing allen head tomorrow.
Thanks in the meantime Sam

 

[Krysstel]

The big slot head screw on the side ?!
Got it ! No worries. Thought that was something else.

Great and thanks ever so for your help.

Mark

 

[Krysstel]

And I found the old manual and checked all the numbers you quoted. Found everything and it all looks like plain sailing

One other thing.
When comparing the rise/fall worm with the tilt worm I can see that the rise/fall is a lot more worn. The worm teeth are almost pointed whilst those on the tilt worm are square topped. This results in a marked amount of backlash in the rise/fall. Anything I can do about that ? Like replace the worm for instance !

 

[SammyQ]

Hmmmm....Here's what mine looked like on disassembly, then after cleaning with metal polish and garden twine:

Sam

 

[Krysstel]

Comparing the condition of my worm with the one in your last picture it's obvious mine is very worn. Zooming in on my picture you can see quite a gap between the worm and the teeth on the quadrant.
I guess I could live with the backlash as the weight of the motor and trunnions will probably hold the blade down but since I'm stripping the whole saw down it would seem sensible to replace the worm now.
I've found the WORM here - but at a price ! Do I have any options ?

 

[Krysstel]

BTW Sam - The dark green you repainted with. Is that a hammerite colour ?

I'm looking at different machine enamels right now with a plan to brush painting with a green colour which is not the original Wadkin RAL code.

Mark

 

[deema]

It will be I suspect a standard part. The trick is finding the spec to source one correctly. However with you having your old one you can take the dimensions to find a replacement. Locating your local retailer of such items and pop down with the old one to get a match is often the easiest way.

 

[Krysstel]

Popping over from Oslo might be a little tricky but I think I can source the part online if I'm careful about the part number etc.

 

[SammyQ]

Those guys are good for spares, but pricey. I'm trying to screw up the courage to buy a fence advancement screw from them...three figures too!

You could just live with the backlash, always going above the blade height you want, then lowering gently back down to final height?

At nearly sixty years of age, these two Wadkins of ours are bound to be decrepit in some ways. You should see the state of my fence...

No, the colour I used ain't Hammershite; it's worse, Wickes metallic green. Really soft, easily chipped, don't recommend it.

Sam

 

[SammyQ]

Here's a close-up of the forward gib strips to show the Wickes colour, with a wee tip about neodymium magnets to hold the gib strip securely.

Sam

 

[Krysstel]

OK so there's no other cheaper source for spares I haven't found ?
I think I'm going to bite the bullet and do it now while I'm doing everything else :shock:
After all, if I leave it and come back to it in a couple of years it'll probably cost £150 to fix !!

Think I'm going to paint mine in machine enamel. Some dark green colour. Seems lkke a better option than these hammer finishes that I've never really liked the look of despite their authenticity.

Mark

 

[MusicMan]

A buddy with a robust screwcutting metal lathe, experience in screw cutting and 2-3 hours to spend on it ... you're unlikely to pick one up secondhand.

Yes the weight will hold it down. My worm/whell gear has backlash but it gives no issues. There'll still be a little backlash with a new one.

 

[Krysstel]

So all I have to now is screw it back together :roll:

Despite not being touched for 55 years every nut and bolt unscrewed without problems, all bar one. The main bolt holding the riving knife bracket on. The one with the big head and a locking nut on the back - on the left in this picture.
Is there any special procedure involved or is it just probably seized due to corrosion ?

 

[SammyQ]

seized due to corrosion

I used Gunk for cleaning, then WD-40 and heating oil (diesel ) to marinade mine for 24 hours. I got lucky and it came off with only a little wrassling and no threads chewed. Mole Grips helped, but the bolt was in a really grimy state.

This was my pile at your stage:

Sam

 

[Krysstel]

But once the nut's off it's only a bolt loose in a hole ? The hole's not tapped as well ?
I attempted driving it out from the nut side with a large punch and rotating it from the head side with a hammer and chisel but it didn't budge. Got it soaking in WD40 overnight now and will try again this evening.

 

[deema]

If it’s the bolt I think it is your having trouble with you will find that the threaded end has a slot for a screw driver. You unscrew it out. The locking nut is to secure it in poisition after you use a screw driver to adjust. You may have caused a few problems with the persuader.

Worm gears are two a penny if you google search, I’d expect to pay c£10 plus delivery for a new one. If you can’t find an exact match you can get a worm screw set for significantly less than Daltons are quoting.

As an example RS components sell them.....they are normally very expensive compared to everywhere else and I’m not saying they have the right one.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumati ... orm-gears/

 

[deema]

I would personally change the bearings, I always change all the bearings and belts on all the secondhand machines I buy.....it’s amazing for often it uncovers issues that would have led to real problems if I’d not done it. The belts may have been over tightened or the machine left standing for a long time without the spindle being rotated to avoid the bearings ‘denting’ the race which causes noise, vibration and leads to them failing. The machine will also almost certainly run quieter with new bearings. The official bearings have elongated inner races and are expensive (about £40 for the pair) however you can use jelly bean bearings 6203RS or ZZ and a couple of shim washers which are pennies at total cost of c£10. Belts are c£1.50 each!

 

[Krysstel]

If it’s the bolt I think it is your having trouble with you will find that the threaded end has a slot for a screw driver. You unscrew it out. The locking nut is to secure it in poisition after you use a screw driver to adjust. You may have caused a few problems with the persuader.

Worm gears are two a penny if you google search, I’d expect to pay c£10 plus delivery for a new one. If you can’t find an exact match you can get a worm screw set for significantly less than Daltons are quoting.

As an example RS components sell them.....they are normally very expensive compared to everywhere else and I’m not saying they have the right one.



https://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/pneumati ... orm-gears/

Think we're talking about 2 different bolts.
The one in question is one of the main bolts that hold the sliding riving knife frame/bracket to the trunnion. Mine definately doen't have a screwdriver slot in the threaded end.

Good idea sourcing a non orginal worm gear. :wink:
But unfortunately worm gears is not something I'm an expert on. How does one measure them to get the correct item ?
In the examples at RS they talk about things module, number of starts, pitch diameter, gear direction and pressure angle. All of which mean little or nothing to me :?

Mark

 

[Krysstel]

I would personally change the bearings, I always change all the bearings and belts on all the secondhand machines I buy.....it’s amazing for often it uncovers issues that would have led to real problems if I’d not done it. The belts may have been over tightened or the machine left standing for a long time without the spindle being rotated to avoid the bearings ‘denting’ the race which causes noise, vibration and leads to them failing. The machine will also almost certainly run quieter with new bearings. The official bearings have elongated inner races and are expensive (about £40 for the pair) however you can use jelly bean bearings 6203RS or ZZ and a couple of shim washers which are pennies at total cost of c£10. Belts are c£1.50 each!

Could you give me a link to a possible supplier ? Both for bearings and belts.
Thanks

Mark

 

[deema]

For bearings, belts and gears I use these chaps.

I’d give them a call about your worm gear. Pressure angles etc are only critical in drive systems with loads, for this application where your winding a handle by hand to adjust an incredibly light load anything that meshes will work.

If you have a retailer of such things locally if you take the worm and drive gear into them they should be able to sort you out a solution.

https://www.bearingsrus.co.uk.