I have to say that Deemas suggestion of keeping the whole thing largely together and rolling it into the back of the van sounds like the way to do it, he's moved these things before and says that its a relativly easy 2 man job, and you end up with the saw sitting nice and stable on a bit of any old sheet material where it cant come to much harm once its strapped down.
Its a lovely looking saw,,
From memory...Would be interested in seeing how that sliding table works/is attached to the saw/bar....
The carraige is bolted onto a long circular bar at right angles. The moves backwards and forwards on two large V-rollers attached ton the side of the saw. Above the bar, are two smaller bearings which have bent brass scrapers attached to them. Remove those two (metric Allen key) and the bar lifts off. At each end of the bar is a circular steel stop. Take the back one of those off and it should be possible to pull the bar off towards the front of the saw if takingbthe top bearings off doesn't work. Either way take the table off FIRST before removing the bar
At the front of the machine there is a swing arm supported on a casting. I seem to recall mine had a threaded pin top and bottom which could be wound out to get the arm off
At the outer end of the support arm should be a black plastic rod about 4 to 6 inches long x maybe 1-1/2in diameter which fits over a spigot on the arm. At the top of this is a ball besring on which the table is supported. These are easy to lose.
When the auxilliary table is lifted to rhe working position and supported on the arm the extruded aluminium fence can be dropped on and locked in position (captive screwsxon the table?). It can be locked either onto the front or the rear of the table and should have one sliding flip stop and one fixed to the pull our section at the outer end (left end) on the fence
The rip fence generally runs on a large steel bar bolted at two places onto the front lip of the top casting (if the saw was fitted with the optional sheet metal RH extension there is a longer bar and a third attachment stud on the rip fence bar). Mid way down the right side of the saw there should be a second rip fence support bar which is also bolted onto the apron at the side
Hope that isn't too turgid and that it helps. Please bear in mind, though, that it is 30+ years since I owned one of these and my memory may not be 100%
I did reread that and I've taken some of the spelling errors out plus added a few minor details. Those steel bars, for the rip fence and the sliding carraige aren't light so for safety's sake I'd recommend a second body to help you
In terms of dating a mate if mine reckons that it may be older than I thought. He reckons the boxy body version is an earlier, very early 1980s for a couple years and was available for a short period until.the "definitive" model which replaced it. Hence no manuals. Only the maker's plate would confirm this
Good luck with your saw
Pete, you really need to get the carraige and its' associated gubbins off, partly because the bar that the carraige traverses on is about 7 ft long and the swinging arm sticks out about 3 feet. Similarly the rip fence front bar, rip fence rear support bar (if present) and the optional RH extension table (if present (along with the rip fence itself) need to come off to reduce the footprint, and reduce the liklihood of damage to both the vehicle and saw in transit. The suggestion about taking the crown guard, riving knife and blade off are also valid given that, as I stated, these machines are top heavy. That said they are fairly light and easy to move - I twice moved mine on my own in a tail lift Transit 3.5 tonner (but needed help to put it together again afterwards)
Ah, i sssumed sliding csrraige, not trunnion. The only other bits there which can cause issues might be the handle at the front, and the sheet metal dust exhaust at the rear (if fitted - that was another option)
Never tried it TBH. For starters you still need to get the sliding gear and the rip fence stuff off (almost all bolted to the top - the swing arm gets in the way and needs to be tied back or removed). Then you need to disconnect all the wiring snd take the handle off
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