Wadkin AGS 10 restoration

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Gremmy

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My AGS 10 table was in a similar state.

I found a Stanley knife blade and easing oil very effective, I’m sure WD40 would also work.
Hold the knife blade at 40 degree angle (you could make a wooden holder out of a piece of scrap if you are concerned about your hands) and a few passes should bring the rust right off, without damaging the table surface.
Not too time consuming or difficult.
I would think that sand paper of 180 grit might take too much material off the table surface?
 

Michal

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Ok i agree with this 180 grit. But will knife take all rust? And what about grooves?
 

Gremmy

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Ok i agree with this 180 grit. But will knife take all rust? And what about grooves?

Try it on a small area and see for yourself 😉
I finished off with wire wool.

To clarify for google translate errors - just use the naked blade (not in the knife handle)
 
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Michal

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i understood :p I dont use google translate to write or read. Just if i need some specialist words but sometimes it translate very bad.
 

MusicMan

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KingAether, I thought you didn't have the fence, or did I misremember? The pinion we are talking about is the fine adjuster on the fence.

The part you could sell to Michal would be the rise and fall gear (technically a segment of a wheel) and this would save him much hassle.

I think you should exchange pictures of what you have and what you expect before you do a deal!

And I think that pinion does need complete replacing.
 

KingAether

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KingAether, I thought you didn't have the fence, or did I misremember? The pinion we are talking about is the fine adjuster on the fence.

The part you could sell to Michal would be the rise and fall gear (technically a segment of a wheel) and this would save him much hassle.

I think you should exchange pictures of what you have and what you expect before you do a deal!

And I think that pinion does need complete replacing.
Your right, i assumed it was also called a pinion section but either way i believe we are talking about the same part; i think your right about both of us showing what we have and are after though would be a good idea! Im not sure how some of them get in the state we see them given this one looks like new other than a bit of greese and i would assume it has seem some use
143961124_418506936238395_3808719357484176389_n.jpg 144852201_155288949581272_4212716278181490013_n.jpg
 

MusicMan

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Oh and if it says 'do not post to' it sometimes means that you have to pay extra postage, ie negotiate with the seller.

Another reason why you and KingAether should check is that I think his Wadkin is a later model than yours. This probably only affects the riving knife design (his is the one that rises and falls with the blade, but I think that yours (Michal) is the fixed splitter. I don't think that this affects the rise and fall but best to check. Maybe Vann knows.

KingAether, I am probably interested in your riving knife holder!
 

KingAether

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Oh and if it says 'do not post to' it sometimes means that you have to pay extra postage, ie negotiate with the seller.

Another reason why you and KingAether should check is that I think his Wadkin is a later model than yours. This probably only affects the riving knife design (his is the one that rises and falls with the blade, but I think that yours (Michal) is the fixed splitter. I don't think that this affects the rise and fall but best to check. Maybe Vann knows.

KingAether, I am probably interested in your riving knife holder!
Again you are correct, this is a model that the riving knife rises and falls but i don't think it should matter for the rise and fall (y) Shoot me a message about the bracket, i have someone buying the rivets/bolts it moves on and the collar to attach it to the spindle but the bracket plate itself is still available
 

MusicMan

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OK I think that KingAether has the new style, in which the rise and fall rack is part 58, D1026M/15

Michal has the old style in which the part is part 39 which ia part 1026/15.

They look very similar and my guess is they will not have changed it but someone who has rebuilt several AGS10s (Vann?) may know for sure.
 

Attachments

  • Wadkin AGS (10 inch) Sawbench Manual & Parts List new style.pdf
    2.9 MB · Views: 20
  • Wadkin AGS (10inch) Sawbench Manual & Parts List old style (mine).pdf
    1.2 MB · Views: 9

deema

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I can only inform you about my experience, so caveat emptor!
When I’ve swapped them over they have fitted, the castings appear to be identical. However, do not assume the locating pins will fit and they may need redrilling after a little faffing around getting the worm and gear to mesh correctly. Be very very careful popping the trunion back in, it’s incredibly easy to break off a tooth on the rack if they don’t mesh properly.
 

Michal

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Your right, i assumed it was also called a pinion section but either way i believe we are talking about the same part; i think your right about both of us showing what we have and are after though would be a good idea! Im not sure how some of them get in the state we see them given this one looks like new other than a bit of greese and i would assume it has seem some use
View attachment 102449 View attachment 102450


Hello. Its in really good condiction. Today i was in one more shop and left mine there. Tomorow i will know how much will cost make new part.

Oh and if it says 'do not post to' it sometimes means that you have to pay extra postage, ie negotiate with the seller.

Another reason why you and KingAether should check is that I think his Wadkin is a later model than yours. This probably only affects the riving knife design (his is the one that rises and falls with the blade, but I think that yours (Michal) is the fixed splitter. I don't think that this affects the rise and fall but best to check. Maybe Vann knows.

KingAether, I am probably interested in your riving knife holder!

Ive created this thread to solve problems not make new one hahaha. I really hope that mine rise and fall will be same. But like i said i dont have atm my part.

Here is my name plate of saw. First two numbers after 10AGS are year of build?
20210201_193834.jpg



And here is from motor:
20210201_193846.jpg
 

Michal

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I added to basket on ebay some item. And that what i found there...

Item (1)
£45.00
Postage to 72-006
£11.77
Import charges
£13.68

Total
£70.45
 
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Michal

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I can only inform you about my experience, so caveat emptor!
When I’ve swapped them over they have fitted, the castings appear to be identical. However, do not assume the locating pins will fit and they may need redrilling after a little faffing around getting the worm and gear to mesh correctly. Be very very careful popping the trunion back in, it’s incredibly easy to break off a tooth on the rack if they don’t mesh properly.

it doesn't sound happy for me... But thanks!
 

Vann

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...Maybe Vann knows...
I regret that I know little about the AGS. My interest is concentrated on pre-Bursgreen machines and I have neglected Wadkin-Bursgreen machines (I'll go stand in the corner :()

...Here is my name plate of saw. First two numbers after 10AGS are year of build?View attachment 102472
...
We used to think the first 2 digits of the Wadkin (pre-Bursgreen) Test Number was the year of manufacture - but this was not the case. Wadkin Green Lane used a test numbering system that bore no relationship to the build date (except that co-incidently any Wadkin [Green Lane] machine with a Test Number in the 57xxx series was built in 1957).

However, it appears that the former Bursgreen factories (the AGS being manufactured in the Bursgreen [Fence Houses] factory) probably did base their Serial Number on the year of manufacture.

So I believe it's safe to assume this AGS was made in 1976.

Cheers, Vann.
 

KingAether

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@Michal I have a thread in the sale forum for the parts, let me know on there how it goes with the machine shop and if you still want it (y)
 

Michal

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Ohhh we break the rules. ups... sry

@Vann thanks for clearing about date of birth ;) my saw.

Today i got 2 little succes.

First i cleaned up main table. Thanks @Gremmy for tip with knife blade. It worked. First i cleaned up all with liquid for firepalces glass, then i used knife blade and deruster. Few posts up is photo before and here after cleaning:

This one after liquid

20210202_120743.jpg


This one after blade and deruster (i think that in real looks much better)
20210202_122852.jpg


And my next little succes is this:

20210202_185750.jpg


In machine shop where i was yesterday they give up with rise and fall but they rebuild my old micro adjustment for only 10£! First they welded and then cut again. Hope it will fit!

At finish half succes. I found next shop where they can make rise and fall. But they said price around 80£. In Poland when someone say around, that mean it can be 80 or higher. Never lower :p
 

Fergie 307

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My AGS 10 table was in a similar state.

I found a Stanley knife blade and easing oil very effective, I’m sure WD40 would also work.
Hold the knife blade at 40 degree angle (you could make a wooden holder out of a piece of scrap if you are concerned about your hands) and a few passes should bring the rust right off, without damaging the table surface.
Not too time consuming or difficult.
I would think that sand paper of 180 grit might take too much material off the table surface?
If you first remove any trace of grease then a weak solution of phosphoric acid will remove all the rust without damaging the surface. Ideally you want to immerse it, but appreciate the table is probably too big. I have had good results by soaking paper towels in the acid solution, then laying them over the surface. The has disadvantage that it will remove rust from any scratches or grooves, which purely mechanical methods wont.
 
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