Wabbitpo is strugglng with acrylic, I can't do beech & a

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TobyB

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FRUSTRATED!

Had the opportunity to try to make a couple of Xmas presents, and not happy with what I have achieved ...

Got given a couple of 100 x 40 cms beech logs from a branch off a friends tree. Chainsawed in half and made up some rough blanks for a number of bowls ... have tried natural-edge and centre=bowl-rim versions based on various books advice about wood shrinkage, etc.

It's been terrible to work. End-grain tear-out +++. Tried various with different bowl-gauge grinds from different directions (going back to Rowleys Foundation Course amongst others). Tried scrappers (plain and shear) - made it worse. Sharpened tools repeatedly - probably wasted a lot of metal. Ended up using buckets of sanding-sealer and very light cuts gouge to get anything even poor, and then doing a massive amount of sanding, starting at 60 then 80 grits, to end up with a moderately acceptable surface ... but very disappointed with result.

Fed up, pulled out an olive-ash blank to try to make a 45 cms diameter platter. Initially seemed fine, when I did the outside. Then worked down the inside - bit at a time to support the rim - then it started to rattle around. Went back to the books - and tried very slow (eg Raffan "drop speed to 15-20%) and very high ("wood can't react against the tool" speeds, various gouges and angles, scrapers, etc (Raffans bowls & Chapmans new approach seemed to have helpful advice) - think the surface was flexing around or had hard/soft-regions to deflect things ... used a cotton glove on my left hand to support behind to no avail, scraping maybe flattened the ripples but the tear-out was awful (worse than the beach!), attempts at very light gouge cuts were fine for a bit until it dug in on a ripple/ridge leaving to even more damage to repair ... sadly it all went terminal when trying to sand it out as salvage-job when a terribly minor catch of the 180 grit in a tear-out resulted in the whole thing shattering!

So - NOT my greatest efforts

Letting off steam (as you can all tell) ... but finding turning bowls/platters of more than about 25 cms diameter extremely difficult.

Any sage advice, etc to be had?

Cheers

Toby
 
was the beech wet? as wet beech cuts so easy its a real pleasure to work.

sounds like you need a day with a tutor?. as it sounds like a mixture of technique and wood adding up to a frustrated turner.
 
As George says much easier to demonstrate/show how, if it was possible to see how you approach the cuts, which is where a tutor fellow turner can help.
Sounds very much about not having correct bevel contact, and this is a relational thing between the bevel you have and the angle of the tool approach, either could/maybe not optimal.

But every turner is likely to use the same tool in a differing way so there is no magic 'perfect' way, it's a case of finding the way that suits you and a tutor should be able to guide you in this.

On a safety note, I strongly advise that you do not wear gloves of any type whilst touching a rotating piece of wood, if ever the glove catches as did your abrasive it could well be your fingers that are detached not just the bowl from the chuck.
 
As Chas said every turner does things differently but I find that the ripples usually occur for me when I am too far away from the wood on the tool rest. Usually when I am roughing down and am too lazy to move the rest in as the wood gets smaller. I resort to a scraper to get rid of them ad stop being lazy. Can't say I have ever had them on the enside however.

End grain can be a sod in many woods. It's all a matter of practice. (I'm still practicing and sometimes get it right. What I did was get hold of some pine (lumps of 4x4) and practiced getting as smooth a finish as I could with that.

These are end grain in pine.



Believe me if you practice getting a good finish on pine from the tool you are on the right track and it's a lot cheaper than doing it with beech or olive ash.

Pete
 
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