Vintage No 6 Stanley Plane

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sparkus88":ai8hdgvk said:
just check those things, it does have stanley on the lateral lever, the wheel does advance the opposition to my other planes, and it doesn't have an adjustment on the frog. So I'm thinking it probably is a stanley, also because surely he wouldn't have 100% feedback if he was sending out dodge or fake planes etc. Can someone tell me whats wrong with the corners of the iron shown in the fourth photo I posted, it looks almost like its burnt?

I don't see how in Gods name the plane iron could be burnt. Grinding on a dry grinder is easy, just ask the old folks.

Though I think with a proper tool rest it could be ok. Just like using a chisel on a lathe

WH= workshop heaven

http://workshopheaven.com/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi
 
sparkus88":pxvpceky said:
..surely he wouldn't have 100% feedback if he was sending out dodge or fake planes etc. ....
Can be done as long as he deals "reasonably" with any complaints - as he has done. He's got a few neutral feedbacks which means they were pi55ed off, if not ripped off.

It's obviously a mongrel - later blade and lever cap even if the base is a genuine old Stanley (which you only have his word for). If he knows so much about planes he should have said. He's a chancer.
If you don't want to keep it I'd tell him you want to return it with return post included in the refund.
 
Plane body looks like a fairly early Stanley with a nasty coat of paint. Lever cap iron and chip breaker all latter replacements. Frog and base are the important bits.
 
Tom K":3bhh6typ said:
Frog and base are the important bits.
Can you unscrew the frog and post pictures. That way we'll be able to offer more informed advice (i.e. whether it's worth keeping or not).

Cheers, Vann.
 
some more photos
 

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Looks like your plane is 1888- 1901 so should be a good project.
 
Yes, it's the early type frog. The only gripe I would have with that Plane is the blade, even then you can regrind it and it may well be very decent Steel.
 
I admire how you ignore the obvious lack of experience and condescending attitude, I just can't stop myself making some sort of comment :x .chris
 
A question for Andy King: as i am in Canada i have never heard of " Hammerite Paint"...two questions...
I)..is this an acceptable replacement for japanning ? and
2)if so..where can I get some ?
 
cam":3p8cvlje said:
...as i am in Canada i have never heard of " Hammerite Paint"...
..where can I get some ?
Hi Cam. I can't speak for Canada, but it's available in this part of the Commonwealth (and you can't get much further from point of manufacture :D ). I got mine at the local big shed.

Sparkus. With regard to the sole and frog: I don't know much about pre-Bailey, Stanley planes, but it does seem to be the genuine article. However, as the seller has offered to take it back, you're now in a position where you can keep it, or return it if it's just too early a model for your taste.

Good luck with that decision.

Cheers, Vann.
 
Vann":1m891bag said:
Sparkus. With regard to the sole and frog: I don't know much about pre-Bailey, Stanley planes, but it does seem to be the genuine article. ............ return it if it's just too early a model for your taste.

Good luck with that decision.

Cheers, Vann.

It's not pre-Bailey Vann just pre frog adjusting screw.
 
cam":3ak7wgxa said:
A question for Andy King: as i am in Canada i have never heard of " Hammerite Paint"...two questions...
I)..is this an acceptable replacement for japanning ? and
2)if so..where can I get some ?

Its an anti rust paint containing small bits of glass I seem to remember. Suitable for user planes certainly and available worldwide with the exception of North America. Probably something similar available in your local big box or hardware store. Think Rustoleum is similar and available there.
 
Tom K":3ccmde21 said:
Vann":3ccmde21 said:
Sparkus. With regard to the sole and frog: I don't know much about pre-Bailey, Stanley planes, but it does seem to be the genuine article. ............ return it if it's just too early a model for your taste.

Good luck with that decision.

Cheers, Vann.

It's not pre-Bailey Vann just pre frog adjusting screw.
'suppose it depends on your definition of a "Bailey". I agree it's not pre-Leonard Bailey but, to me at least, a "Bailey" plane is one which has the stepped frog, supported both at the "I" rib and at the mouth (what the esteemed Mr Leach calls the "third design"). These were the first to have "Bailey" cast on the base.

The plane shown is supported at the rib, however the bottom edge by the mouth is not in contact with the sole, but cantilevered from the broad flat rib.

However on re-reading Leach, he refers to all four frog designs as "Bailey", and he being the leading authority on Stanley planes, I must concede - you are correct.

Cheers, Vann.
 
Just minor point of Hammerite, it contains silicon and basically spoils any further future attempts to use any other finish, I certainly do not use it because of this.
 
Hammerite does not need any other finish afterwards so I'm not sure if that matters.

It gives a very accurate colour finish on Record Blue planes and once it is hardened is fairly bulletproof.

Use the smooth version of course.... :wink:

Jim
 
jimi43":2hd0hqpq said:
Hammerite does not need any other finish afterwards so I'm not sure if that matters.

It gives a very accurate colour finish on Record Blue planes and once it is hardened is fairly bulletproof.

Use the smooth version of course.... :wink:

Jim


Just to add, Rust-oleum is an excellent finish (Colour matched to BS110 for Record hand planes) that I use and it's extremely robust in daily use on a number of my hand planes. No chipping, scuffing or flaking during the past 10 months since I began using it. Better still, it brushes out smoothly and easily and can be thinned for spraying. Clean up simply involves white spirit instead of having to use specialist thinners Hammerite tends to require.
 
GazPal":3rj3y3c3 said:
jimi43":3rj3y3c3 said:
Hammerite does not need any other finish afterwards so I'm not sure if that matters.

It gives a very accurate colour finish on Record Blue planes and once it is hardened is fairly bulletproof.

Use the smooth version of course.... :wink:

Jim


Just to add, Rust-oleum is an excellent finish (Colour matched to BS110 for Record hand planes) that I use and it's extremely robust in daily use on a number of my hand planes. No chipping, scuffing or flaking during the past 10 months since I began using it. Better still, it brushes out smoothly and easily and can be thinned for spraying. Clean up simply involves white spirit instead of having to use specialist thinners Hammerite tends to require.

I agree. I used to use Rust-oleum when I lived in the Americas...I think it is an American product...made of fish oil if I recall.

Being made of fish oil I'm surprised it doesn't have any chips! :mrgreen:

(Winter coat...at the ready.... :oops: )

Jim
 
jimi43":1v063a6z said:
I agree. I used to use Rust-oleum when I lived in the Americas...I think it is an American product...made of fish oil if I recall.

Being made of fish oil I'm surprised it doesn't have any chips! :mrgreen:

(Winter coat...at the ready.... :oops: )

Jim


Mink stole surely :ho2
 
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