Vase on a tool budget WIP

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Established Member
31 Dec 2004
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Cotswolds UK
__________Tall Vase without specialist hollowing tools.______click on images for larger view

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Prepare Blank, locate centres, hammer drive centre indent.
__________Select stout tool to rough round blank, spindle roughing gouge or bowl gouge.

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Remove corners by working Towards Edge from centre,
__________to avoid catches and splitting of wood, re-adjust rest closer as you work
__________As soon as you have a cylinder, select a spindle gouge or skew to obtain improved finish
__________and achieve basic shaping, you may find a better finish is achieved
__________dependant on direction of cut, especially with the skew.
__________notice the improved long shavings using the skew.

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Shape spigot on end to suit chuck jaws & define base limit, leave a good shoulder
__________to rest up tight to jaw face to aid sideways pressure stability.
__________Turn piece around and using tail centre to align, locate spigot in chuck jaws.
__________Finish shaping and final rounding do not undercut base too much at this time.

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Use a Flat sanding block to blend any tool marks you may have.
__________Form a cone in tail-stock end, removing centre at last minute.
__________This will aid natural alignment of forstener drill bits that will not have centre location.
__________Use a brush to remove debris they get hot, a small flat ground on the side of the shaft aids spin prevention.

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Use masking tape to mark drill depth on shank.
__________Open up the bore by working through the drill sizes.
__________Work drill in and out of bore several times after reaching full depth,
__________to remove trapped shavings.

__________Now comes the dilemma if you don't have any specialist hollowing tools.
__________I use narrow but thick (stiff) scraper or for the deeper items a home made tool with a Ci1 tip.
__________Set the tool rest height (flat is good) so that the cutting corner is above centre and giving clearance for lower edge.
__________Plung cut, small cuts at a time, angling tool to follow outer shape as necessary.

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Using a split stick or taped abrasives sand inside bore.

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Finish off base definition, finish sand in line with grain by hand.
__________Seal inside & out & burnish with split stick in bore
__________Denib & remove those scratches you missed.

_________ ___ ___ ___

__________Apply wax finish and buff.

_________ ___ ___

__________Using slim parting tool remove piece from chuck spigot.
__________Once past base outer rim angle tool to form a hollow base on piece.
__________Steady end of piece with right hand and catch it as you complete parting.
__________If not confident parting fully finish cut with narrow pull saw with lathe stationary.

_________ ___ ___

__________Using a sanding disc mounted in the lathe (I use my metal lathe for convenience.)
__________Sand the base, seal, wax and buff.

__________Hopefully all being well you will end up with something like this.


__________With tall vases remember to leave sufficient wood mass in base area to avoid tipping.
__________On wider vases I use a stiff curved scraper to clean the bottom of the bore sides.
__________I have a long reach flat rests to act as support down the bore.

__________Safety Note Link:
__________On Deeper or less secure Vases I use a Lathe Steady.
A really nice job Chas and great WIP shots.

What was the overall size of the finished piece?

hey chas, thats brill. i think even i can do that. infact i will give it a go at the weekend :D :D thanks.
Thanks for taking the time with the pictures, one to keep returning to, to make sure I am doing it right!!! :roll: :wink:
THOMASB":3ac2ubn0 said: make sure I am doing it right!!!
Assuming I did it 'right' in the first place Thomas, as with most tasks there are endless ways of tackling it, hopefully if anyone spots a real No No they will shout up.
The above is just a method I have adopted as giving me the least risk when reaching deep.

One thing that is obvious the more I reach into deep items is that the thicker and hence stiffer the tool shaft the better, anything that can be done to reduce chatter is a bonus.
Chas, thanks very much for posting this. Makes it very clear. What size was the square blank? Looks about 4" ?
wizer":2foq746f said:
....What size was the square blank?
70-75mm Tom,
If you have not tackled reaching deep in end-grain before I would suggest you aim at a finished piece no more than three times as deep as it is wide, it's unsupported tool overhang that's the challenge.

Make sure the boring cutting edge is always above the centre, then any tendency to catch drives the tool down and into space away from the wood.
Brill WIP Chas,

Thansk for the Time in doing this.