Using a Hole Saw the right way

[Droogs]

The set on the saw teeth was too wide and the machine was trying to create too large a kerf. Also the drill may have had a low battery or just was not powerful enough for the type and thickness of wood. Or as a beginner you were applying too much downward pressure. When using a saw of any kind you are meant to let the saw do the work and it's own weight will make it go down.
So to me it appears to be and in no way to denigrate you the type of error seen in the IT industry everyday known as an EBCAD system failure. Error Between Chair And Desk.

Possibly an expensive lesson but one I am sure you will learn from and always remember. Don't force the tool ever, let it just do it's thing. If it takes time then it takes time. Also on holes that size it is best to use a static drill on a stand or a pillar drill.

edit typos

 

[Bloc75]

These pillar drills worth getting if I don't plan on doing that many holes? I think the previous posts about doing some smaller escape holes, and like you have said don't apply too much pressure, I should have better results and a drill that survives.

 

[minilathe22]

Many battery drills have a 2 speed gearbox, I find with larger holesaws the slower speed works better. Does your new drill have this? Agree with many others here, holesaws are a bit troublesome, a proper forstner bit will do it better, but at a higher cost. and They dont work too well unless held securely like in a pillar drill.

 

[Bloc75]

It does have 2 speeds and I had it on the slowest. But I know what happened, and it makes sense. It's a mistake I won't be making a 2nd time.

 

[RobinBHM]

A mate of mine cut slots in his hile saw when doing 79mm holes for desk cables

surprisingly it worked well, it helped clear the swarf.

 

[Droogs]

If you don't plan on doing lots of holes then follow the video. But you will be surprised at how often you end up using a pillar drill if you have a decent one. Especially if those holes must be at a certain angle and true

 

[Nelsun]

So to me it appears to be and in no way to denigrate you the type of error seen in the IT industry everyday known as an EBCAD system failure. Error Between Chair And Desk.

Not directed at the OP in any way but, as an aside, in my line of work I frequently have PICNICs - Problem In Chair Not In Computer.

Anyway... for times when only a hand drill will do, I've heard folk say to use the clutch to stop the bit if it catches and taking your wrists along for the ride. I've not tried that (my drill has some arcane wizardry in it that's saved my wrists a few times) but others may have and can comment of the effectiveness and how high to set the clutch?

 

[Bloc75]

Sorry to sound like a rookie, but where is their a clutch on my drill? I have 2 settings on the top 1 and 2. Then my hammer, screw and drill settings and then torque.

My day job is a computer programmer, and I know all about PICNICs, especially when working with computer illiterates.

If it's a problem with me I have no issue with accepting that criticism, it's how you learn sometimes.

 

[Droogs]

By clutch he means Torque settings. When you rotate the dial to one of the numbers you are setting the slip point for the internal clutch in the drill gearbox.

Each manufacturer has slightly different settings. When putting in a screw it will be on a low one and is increased as you want more pressure squeezing the 2 bits of wood together or you want the head of the screw to be at a certain point eg flush with the surface or just above or below by a bit or a bigger bit if you are going to use a wooden plug to hide the screw, when you are finally screwing them together. the drill should have a setting for drilling where the clutch is disengaged and the motor will continue to turn the chuck (which is now fixed and will not slip) no matter what and if the bit can't turn then Newtons kicks in and the drill will and wrench your wrist. I can be very painful at times. To help avoid that you can instead use on e of the slip settings to stop that happening

hth

 

[Bloc75]

By clutch he means Torque settings. When you rotate the dial to one of the numbers you are setting the slip point for the internal clutch in the drill gearbox.

Each manufacturer has slightly different settings. When putting in a screw it will be on a low one and is increased as you want more pressure squeezing the 2 bits of wood together or you want the head of the screw to be at a certain point eg flush with the surface or just above or below by a bit or a bigger bit if you are going to use a wooden plug to hide the screw, when you are finally screwing them together. the drill should have a setting for drilling where the clutch is disengaged and the motor will continue to turn the chuck (which is now fixed and will not slip) no matter what and if the bit can't turn then Newtons kicks in and the drill will and wrench your wrist. I can be very painful at times. To help avoid that you can instead use on e of the slip settings to stop that happening

hth

Yeah that helps massively. Thanks, I appreciate it.

 

[Nelsun]

My day job is a computer programmer, and I know all about PICNICs, especially when working with computer illiterates.

If it's a problem with me I have no issue with accepting that criticism, it's how you learn sometimes.

Not having a pop at you at all - I was just reminded of PICNICs from Droogs earlier comment. I'm a firm believer in asking questions when I don't understand something.

It's well worth having a play around with the clutch settings as it's incredibly handy for sinking screws just right - or leaving some slack to finish tightening by hand when doing something delicate.

 

[Bloc75]

Not having a pop at you at all - I was just reminded of PICNICs from Droogs earlier comment. I'm a firm believer in asking questions when I don't understand something.

It's well worth having a play around with the clutch settings as it's incredibly handy for sinking screws just right - or leaving some slack to finish tightening by hand when doing something delicate.

Yeah I know I didn't mean it like that. I just prefer to know its me and not something else.

Well as soon as my replacement drill arrives this week I'll have a go at the clutch settings.

 

[weekend_woodworker]

Yeah I know I didn't mean it like that. I just prefer to know its me and not something else.

Well as soon as my replacement drill arrives this week I'll have a go at the clutch settings.

Whilst it is by no means the best Pilar drill, I picked one up at Aldi a few years ago for £60, which has been fantastic and gets lots of use. You can set it for slow speed with lots of torque which is useful for large holes or drilling really hard materials.

 

[pe2dave]

Guess: Large hole, hard wood, 'deep' cut.
Unless the hole saw is vertical there's an aweful lot of friction, wood to hole saw? This may be why it worked
in reverse? Less friction.
In a pillar drill, you'd stay aligned better, longer and have more power behind the cut?
Is RTFM applicable? Quite possible the hole saw didn't have that manual.
HTH