Using a flush trimmer help

[garethharvey]

I have been using some MDF templates to cut some 20mm hardwood in my table router. I have been using a flush trimmer with a top bearing. The hardwood has been cut approx. 2mm wider than the template.

The issue I have is starting the piece in the table router, quite often it just grabs the wood and rips a bit out. When it does work it's great, no further issues.

I have tried approaching the cutter very slowly but just can't overcome this issue

 

[marcros]

have you got a starting pin on your table?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sDHctfXS1M

 

[sunnybob]

Sounds like the bearing is larger than the cutter. Is it an old cutter that has been re sharpened?
But you need a new one anyway.
And yes, the starting pin makes it very easy. Just be ultra careful of your fingers, routers dont take prisoners, they take large lumps and fling them across the workshop

 

[garethharvey]

Thanks, I am sure I have a starting pin, never used it, to be honest, I didn't know what it's for. I do now =D>

The cutter is a new one, it's a trend 1/2" with a flush bearing. I believe the starting pin is the issue

 

[worn thumbs]

Be very careful with a table router.I freely admit that they scare me and I regularly use an overhead router,which I believe to be safer.In both instances it is essential to feed the work against the cutter rotation and I hope you won't feel insulted if I ask whether this is the case?You also need to approach the job with a sense of purpose and a very firm grip so that the work is positively fed in the necessary direction.

 

[sunnybob]

Using push sticks and feather boards greatly reduces the danger of router tables, but yes, after a lifetime working with machinery that could kill or maim, the router table is the one I approach with care and respect.
They are just too useful not to use though.

 

[skipdiver]

I don't like router tables either, much preferring a hand held action with the work piece firmly clamped, although i do use a router table for some tasks. I like to have a practice run with the machine turned off, so i know where i am going to place my feet for the correct position and balance relative to the table and also where my hands are going to be at each stage. Just to be sure, make use of the router pin and have a guard fitted above the blade, so if anything does go awry, your fingers don't go anywhere near the blade. Take your time and think it through before you switch on the router.

 

[Adam9453]

Use a starting pin or fence set to lead into the bit (fence should be flush with bearing).
It usually grabs when trying to freehand a sharp corner into the bit, a hair too quick with not a firm enough grip and it bites a chunk out of your piece.
How big is the piece, if it's small then I'd attach it to a larger piece so you can keep your hands well out the way.
Routers certainly deserve respect as they do maim without discrimination.
Also if you haven't got a guard covering the router bit then I'd suggest making or fitting one

 

[garethharvey]

I have used the table a lot, just never freehand though. The pieces are up to 500mm long, looking at the youtube video I can see where I am going wrong. He makes it look so simple

Worn Thumbs: Yes, feeding in against the router cutter the correct way.

Need to have some practice runs with the starting pin.

It's always the first corner that snags.

 

[custard]

The best way is when you can arrange for a "run-in and a run-out" section on the template. That's an area at the beginning and end of the cut where the template overhangs the workpiece rather than the other way around, this allows the cutter to be spinning free without cutting while the bearing is hard against the template, you then advance the template and workpiece into the cut, so that the actually cutting begins gently and gradually. For something like a shaped edge that's by far the best solution.

Sometimes however that's not possible, the template might be a circular shape rather then one edge (for example something like an electric guitar body), so you can't have a run-in section. In that case the starting pin is your friend, but you should also make sure the cut starts and ends on long grain, never on end grain. Also your 2mm overhang is the absolute maximum, personally when I'm band sawing out a blank for copy routing I aim for 0.5mm to 1.0mm of overhang.

Another useful trick is to use a copy bit that has a bearing at both the top and bottom, then if the template and workpiece are fastened together (screws, double stick tape etc) you can flip it over to ensure you're always routing with the grain.

Good luck!