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pip1954

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hi i have put this in metal work as well as it is related in a way
i am looking for a new spindle for this lathe running out of ideas i have tried the usual places but no one seem to have or beable to get hold of one does any one have any ideas
it is thinking cap time
many thanks :deer
pip
 
If the G&m solution won't work then disassemble the spindle, take spindle to a machinist and see what they will charge to make one. the G&m spindle does not look too difficult to make.

Alan
 
thanks for all replys have tried them them no go have tried several machine shop no go so far one said he could do it but can't do the mt1 in it
what would you put on trhe bowl end as far as thread which face plate is most easiest to get and what would thread be .
i to have thought 3/4 16 on lathe side i have a chuck plate that will fit that thread from when i changed my lathe to jubilee
so it is just the the bowl so looking for very popular size thread
many thanks to all
pip
 
M33x 3.5

there are way to make the mt taper i would make the a MT 2 taper any way you should be able to find some were
 
pip1954":1b2wnfbj said:
... one said he could do it but can't do the mt1 in it
..

If it was Mike who said he could do apart from the Morse taper in the spindle bore, do you envision using the Morse taper in the Bore, is it essential?

I personally have only once had cause to try using the headstock taper in my lathe in 7 yrs. and that requirement would not occur again as I have alternate tooling.
 
Hi

Is repair of the old spindle out of the question? Where is it at fault? - most things can be repaired / rebuilt nowadays.

Regards Mick
 
thanks guys the old spindle only has thread on one end . bearings have movement not sure where the movement is i assume bearings but while i was changing them i thought i would find a new spindle with thread both ends

i use taper for pen mandrel is there another way to do pens?
no it was not mike who said they could not do mt inside don't think i have heard from him yet.
pip
 
Hi Pip,
I know of a guy who does metalworking jobs for people. He has a well equipped workshop, but no CNC, so there may be a considerable time element involved. I'm not sure about making the MT, but he'll probably give it a go. I can get in touch with him for you if you like. As has been suggested, I would go larger than 1MT, in which case 3/4" spindle thread may not be ideal - not much meat left. Perhaps an alternative commonplace thread (1" x 8 or M33?). I would avoid 1 1/2 x 6 as in union graduate, as accessories are much sought after and so quite pricey.
Let me know if you want me to ask him - no guarantees of whether he'll be interested, or of time scale, but if you don't ask then you won't know.

K
 
hi like you say nothing to lose yes you can ask and see what he says.what time span and idea of cost was thinking mt 1 because have kit that fits and same with 3/4 16 as have back plate it is just bowl side not sure about just one that is easy to get hold of spares cheap :lol: .
it has 1" 1/8 bearing internal and 2"1/2 external dia .
cheers
pip
 
hi as stated above it has only thread on one end and is movement so while changing bearing i want to change to double ended so i can turn larger bowl sizes :oops:
cheers =D>
pip
 
pip1954":78i2ydcl said:
hi as stated above it has only thread on one end and is movement so while changing bearing i want to change to double ended so i can turn larger bowl sizes :oops:
cheers =D>
pip

Remember that the rear thread will need to be left handed.

This will severely restrict which thread size you choose as not many chucks and faceplates are available in the various current standard threads in left handed versions.
 
Hi,
I will ask my pal and see what he says. Will post again in a few days.

Regarding LH thread, Union graduate uses 1 1/2" x 6, same as the RH thrad (and Axminster amongst others sell chucks with a dual LH and RH thread). My ML8 has a 7/8" x 12. Have a look at the Peter Child site for a list of threads of various lathes.

A possible alternative could be to use a RH thread both sides, but have a locking grub screw to prevent things from unscrewing. Just make sure you remember to tighten it each time. This means you can use the same thread on both sided (obviously), but it does keep the costs down. Doubling up on chuck / faceplate costs isn't so very funny. I'm OK on my Graduate, but on the ML8 I have a fairly old fashioned chuck on the LH side and a metalworking chuck, together with the early peter child ring "chuck" - not sure of the proper name. Not ideal, and one day I'll get a decent woodworking chuck for the RH side. Meanwhile my metalworking chuck holds things like drill bits, and homemade screw and pin chucks so it does get used. It's not so good for holding wood directly as the jaws crush the wood fibres and the wood comes loose quite easily, but it's good enough wwith tailstock support.
 
hi come lads what left hand threads do you have on your lathe i need to know so i can get an idea which is best to go for IF i can find some one to make me a new spindle :shock:
pip
 
I have chucks with both right and left options 1-1/2" X 6tpi but this is not a common current thread on new lathes, I know of only one chuck with this option other than special order.

Your best bet is to research the popular chuck brands and see who provide left hand thread versions.
With the advent of swivel or sliding head lathes the need for left hand rear headstock configuration has largely disappeared.

You also need to consider the overall diameter of any thread and whether it will allow assembly through your bearings and fixings, the reason for some older machines having a smaller thread form on the rear.
 
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