Understanding MDF

[Mark18PLL]

Good morning,

I would be grateful of some advice on using mdf to make some furniture pieces, basically i would just like to get some pointers on which types to use and when its most suitable.

They different types i am aware of are
MDF
HDF
MR MDF - I know this is used in areas with higher moisture - bathrooms etc
Valchromat

If you were to make furniture using any of these and wanted it to be decent quality, what would you use. For example i know MR MDF is rated for moisture areas but is it also good for non moisture areas because it is stronger?

Thanks

Mark

 

[porker]

I'm not a pro like some on here but I only use MRMDF now. My local supplier stocks Medite which is far better than the fluffy non MR stuff from the sheds. No idea if it is stronger but it cuts far cleaner and is just generally nicer to use and costs just a little more.

There are a few people here that are dissmissive of MDF and that is fine, but used in the correct way and joined correctly it is a great material. Take a look at 10 minute workshop on Youtube if you haven't already. Peter (also on this forum) has done loads of videos of his built in furniture covering almost every aspect of building, joining and finishing.

 

[Droogs]

Of all the different types of fibreboard MDF is used in the vast majority of furniture that is mass produced. The cheaper end of the market uses chipboard, then it is types of fibreboard and then moving up to blockboard and then plywood and then finally solid wood.

Most bespoke makers (those making fitted furniture) use mostly MRMDF (if not using decent plywood) for the things they make as it is far superior to the ordinary MDF as the resins used make it much more durable. It also has a much cleaner edge when worked, is easier to seal and the face takes a finish much more easily and cleanly (smoothly) than the cheaper stuff.

If you do use regular MDF avoid that which the big box stores sell, it is sh 1 te. Look to buy Kronospan, Medite or buy from suppliers such as Meyer. Meyer will sell direct and deliver; their site below:

https://meyertimber.com/products/commodities/mdf?view=all

 

[billw]

Valchromat is basically MRMDF isn't it?

Whatever it's made of absolutely honks btw.

 

[Doug B]

This is worth a read @Mark18PLL , MDF vs HDF - The difference between MDF and HDF boards although it’s about skirting etc it has some good information & interesting links.

 

[Mark18PLL]

Valchromat is basically MRMDF isn't it?

Whatever it's made of absolutely honks btw.

Not as far as i am aware but i could be wrong

 

[doctor Bob]

I thought it was MR MDF as well, with a colour through it.

 

[Mark18PLL]

I feel quite confident making something that is not overly complex. The reason i have been looking at MDF is that i am working from my garage and like many people space is at a premium. Using wood there is some preparation involved in that, i may need to plane or thickness the material, glue lengths together to make larger pieces etc. I am aware that i can ask the woodyard to do this for me but it just adds to the cost, where as with mdf i can design my piece and cut to suit. Also wood can be quite expensive, where mdf is quite cheap.

Please fee free to correct me if you think i am wrong.

Thanks

 

[Mark18PLL]

If i wanted to make a decent quality media unit/Tv stand with space underneath for AV equipment, would making it out of MRMDF look the part?

 

[pcb1962]

If i wanted to make a decent quality media unit/Tv stand with space underneath for AV equipment, would making it out of MRMDF look the part?

You could use a veneered MDF and edge band the visible edges.

 

[AJB Temple]

If you use veneered MDF then you need a means of getting very clean cuts. Such as a track saw with a sharp blade. As for an AV cabinet in MDF, it depends on the design to deal with the weight loading. MDF is not the best material for making strong conventional joints. It depends what your view of "decent quality" is. Knock down units of Ikea type are cheap. easy to replicate if you can do accurate and clean cuts. If you want to better that, then I would be going down the solid wood route or 24mm birch ply and fit a solid wood edge band.

 

[Spectric]

Don't do what I did and confuse cheap and nasty chipboard with MDF, I had a moment that comes with being / getting older!!

 

[Bm101]

Iron on edge band is definitely my choice when making cupboards etc for my house. Definitely not commercially! I have this saw bought 2nd hand on here. Bosch GKS 12 V-26 (2 x 2.0 Ah, GAL 1230 CV, L-BOXX) 12 V Circular Saw With a couple of saw horses, clamps, a straight edge and care taken I can cut to a good degree of accuracy. A tracksaw would probably be better in some ways but I love that little saw. It's versatile. I use the iron on banding on any exposed edge and it's all painted. In my limited experience get a good supplier of meddite etc and cover any cut edge and even without a decent (pro) spray system you can achieve an excellent finish with care and good paint prep.

What no one has mentioned is the great advantage of mdf etc over real wood is its inherent stability. There's no seasonal, moisture movement. A huge consideration.

 

[screwpainting]

Make a bird box or something out of everything you think you could use, offcuts are easily available and cheap. That way you actually know what to expect rather than taking on board what others have found out.

Knowing is all with woodwork and you can't beat a good ponce about with stuff.

 

[DBT85]

I have a mrmdf boot (yes, boot) shelf drying from its first top coat as we speak. Also planning using it to make an av cabinet and plenty 9f other stuff. The likes of @petermillard and others made a good living from the stuff.

For painting the edges, just prime it, sand it, prime it, sand it and then paint as normal. The primer will raise the fibres and the sanding will smooth them back out and prevent the top coat from raising them further.

 

[MikeK]

Valchromat is basically MRMDF isn't it?

Whatever it's made of absolutely honks btw.

Valchromat is MDF-like, but it is not MDF or MRMDF. Here's a link to a description of Valchromat:

https://woodandwire.co.uk/what-is-valchromat/

 

[screwpainting]

These bits and bobs work okay.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/confirma...Ivw8yJtFnUKHN1gjlhgaAv_OEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.edgeband.co.uk/painting-mdf-edges.html

 

[Mark18PLL]

Iron on edge band is definitely my choice when making cupboards etc for my house. Definitely not commercially! I have this saw bought 2nd hand on here. Bosch GKS 12 V-26 (2 x 2.0 Ah, GAL 1230 CV, L-BOXX) 12 V Circular Saw With a couple of saw horses, clamps, a straight edge and care taken I can cut to a good degree of accuracy. A tracksaw would probably be better in some ways but I love that little saw. It's versatile. I use the iron on banding on any exposed edge and it's all painted. In my limited experience get a good supplier of meddite etc and cover any cut edge and even without a decent (pro) spray system you can achieve an excellent finish with care and good paint prep.

What no one has mentioned is the great advantage of mdf etc over real wood is its inherent stability. There's no seasonal, moisture movement. A huge consideration.

Yes i agree about the stability. I know the edge band would look nice but what i would like to do is make some things for home and hopefully word will travel through family and friends, you never know what can happen. With the edge band i would be concerned with it causing problems further down the line if someone wanted me to make something with it on and it came off.

I already have a track saw and some other useful equipment but the garage is slowly getting full lol

 

[Mark18PLL]

I have a mrmdf boot (yes, boot) shelf drying from its first top coat as we speak. Also planning using it to make an av cabinet and plenty 9f other stuff. The likes of @petermillard and others made a good living from the stuff.

For painting the edges, just prime it, sand it, prime it, sand it and then paint as normal. The primer will raise the fibres and the sanding will smooth them back out and prevent the top coat from raising them further.

Yes i have watched quite a few of his youtube videos.

I did study furniture making at college a year or so ago but like anything its a different game once you are out in the world.

Lessons to learn but thankfully forums like this help make things happen.

 

[MikeJhn]

No need for edge banding, if you seal the surface sufficiently then painting will look as good on the edge as it does on the surface, I spray paint all

of my MDF, high build primer and two or three coats of whatever I am using, you can see in the pic that the edges seal well.