Ulmia 348 Mitre Saw binding/stopping issue

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city17

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Hi all, have a question about my Ulmia 348 mitre saw. A while back I replaced the blade on it, but it seems to bind an awful lot. Never had this with any other saw. No matter how little force I put, it almost always binds in the workpiece (seems to grab it and stop the blade, as if making an extremely aggressive cut), making it very hard to use.

Only if I barely touch the workpiece with the blade does it move smoothly, but then there's almost no cutting action going on.

Was wondering if I'm doing something wrong, or if there could be another reason for the issue?

Demo of the issue (exaggerated due to one hand on the camera):
 
I have no real experience with these saws , but many frame saws are set up to cut on the pull stroke. Is the fact that it is a fairly new blade mean that the blade is grabbing the work and flexing the blade so causing it to jam. Perhaps with a not so sharp blade it's much easier to cut on the push stroke.
 
I have a hand miter saw but the top guides are a bit different. Blade tension may be one factor and those guide collars may be out of alignment or the nuts holding them loose. In fact check all threaded connections are tight. Bit of wax on the top rail would not hurt either.
Regards
John
 
I have no real experience with these saws , but many frame saws are set up to cut on the pull stroke. Is the fact that it is a fairly new blade mean that the blade is grabbing the work and flexing the blade so causing it to jam. Perhaps with a not so sharp blade it's much easier to cut on the push stroke.
Interesting, I've tried reversing the blade, and cutting on the pull stroke, but that didn't really work. From what I could find it seems these saws are meant to cut on the push stroke.
 
What's the set like on the blade? Or what's the width of blade compared to the kerf?
Don’t know how well you can see it, but here’s an image of the kerf. The blade is 0.75mm thick, kerf is bit hard to measure but maybe 1-1.2mm side to side.
IMG_4189.jpeg
 
Not sure it would count that much esp on the superficial strokes Could it also be racking slightly?
I noticed when you tilted the saw it seemed to be smoother amd there could be some chatter in the mount foe the saw?

Just spitballing I've no real experience BTW. Just wanna help understand it
 
Are you trying to force it down to cut quicker?

It seems to me that yer seemingly trying to force it to cut. I dunno how many times I've told hand-saw users to relax and just let the saw do it's work.
That ws advice from my grandfather and uncle whom were both cabinetmakers/contractors

Try ight/fast strokes, no downward forcing

But where did the replacement blade come from 348' mitersaws ain't common, and although yu have a later s348, I suggest that you consider that that blade was sharpened by a a neohyte sharpener

Strongly suggest you take mitre box and saw to a professional saw sharpening shop for diagnosis...
 
Not sure it would count that much esp on the superficial strokes Could it also be racking slightly?
I noticed when you tilted the saw it seemed to be smoother amd there could be some chatter in the mount foe the saw?

Just spitballing I've no real experience BTW. Just wanna help understand it
I'm definitely getting better results with better technique (not forcing it down, finding the right angle, letting the saw do the work), that makes it just about usable. Still much more finicky than any other saw I've used.

Don't know who made the saw blade, but bought it from a reputable source. I think there's only one company that makes these replacement blades (except for the Japanese one) since they seem to be identical wherever I look?
 

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