Reading an article about wooden edge finishing from over the pond they used Spackling, what a name for filler. So in the UK what is an equivalent filler to spackling, in the article they used it and finished with Zinsser bin which is readily available.
UK equivalent filler
- Thread starter Spectric
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Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
polyfiller
So why use it on wood, apart from being cheap. I use P38 Isopon car body filler which dries fast and sands very well but not for making edges nicer.
P40, how do you use that on MDF as it is for bridging holes but I may have missed something here that I have never thought about.
Sgian Dubh
Established Member
Basically it's a gypsum based product primarily formulated for filling holes in plaster. As has already been mentioned a UK equivalent would be Polyfilla and other similar product brands.
People sometimes use it (gypsum based filler) for filling holes in wood, usually prior to painting because generally speaking it's white or off-white. It's not great for filling holes in wood because it shrinks and sometimes falls out of the hole leaving a void. Having just mentioned that it may be irrelevant to you because it's not at all obvious your question related to filling holes in wood. Slainte.
robgul
Barry Bucknell is my hero
. . . this is pretty much what the US people call "Bondo" - a putty and activator - works a treat on wood. Quick drying, excellent sanding results
Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
Putty, for anything painted
I think we are mixing up P38 which is just a grey filler and P40 which has the matting in it for bridging holes, great stuff for the Robbin Reliant brigade.
Ollie78
Established Member
I think spackle just means plaster in America.
The best version of a powder filler I have found is tout pret tx110 it dries quick and sands easy.
A quick note about the car body filler. It won't be quite the same as a dedicated wood filler version and because of this may produce cracking in larger amounts.
For small stuff probably fine but likely harder to sand than a wood specific one.
For smoothing mdf edges and stuff try "knifing putty" it's a one part filler that is very fine and comes in a tube, from car paint places. Or tout pret do a smoothing filler which is similar for grain filling.
Ollie
The best version of a powder filler I have found is tout pret tx110 it dries quick and sands easy.
A quick note about the car body filler. It won't be quite the same as a dedicated wood filler version and because of this may produce cracking in larger amounts.
For small stuff probably fine but likely harder to sand than a wood specific one.
For smoothing mdf edges and stuff try "knifing putty" it's a one part filler that is very fine and comes in a tube, from car paint places. Or tout pret do a smoothing filler which is similar for grain filling.
Ollie
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The P38 is an amazing product that works very well on both car bodywork and wood. It dries fast and sands to a glass finish and no shrinkage. I have seen it used on car doors and once done you cannot tell, plus even with all the closing it stays put, downside is the smell and not cheap. I will look at knifing putty as the more tools in the box the more problems can be solved. The stuff I have not come across since the mid eighties is a brush on primer filler, also used in automotive and was cellulose based but produced a really great finish, just not around anymore and it was thick gloppy and green.
Ollie78
Established Member
To be fair I have tried the p40 and found it excessively hard for wood.
When sanding it back it would leave a high spot as the wood was so much softer, I actually like the chemfix 2 part filler if using a styrene based one.
I think the only cellulose filler you can find still is Brummer which is excellent for nail holes and stuff.
The knifing putty is noticeably finer grained than almost anything else.
Ollie
bourbon
Established Member
The ONLY difference between P38 and woodfil, Is about £1 a tin
and wait for days for it to dry before painting.
Everbuild two part is excellent. If you use two part fillers go to a glass fibre supplier and get a small tin of styrene - mix a drop in once in a while and it's not only easier to use but will last for ages. I've one colour that I rarely use that's at least nine years old and still usable, I just float a teaspoonfull over the top when I put it away.
I know, I know, not if you use linseed oil paint.
Droogs
Not the Sharpest Moderator in the box
I can never remember if its P38 or 40 but that's what i have used for years on anything getting painted. As i've mentioned before when moulding MDF edges i get the shape I want and then give a skim coat of filler and then a final pass of the router and 99% of the time I get a perfectly smooth crisp finish ready for primer.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
It's a Scandinavian word which has been Americanised.
Spartel in Danish, spackel in Swedish. It's gypsum and adhesive stuff in a tube.
Spartel in Danish, spackel in Swedish. It's gypsum and adhesive stuff in a tube.
I used to use cellulose high build primer for spraying.
A google shows plenty of places still do it Clostermann Cellulose High Build Primer | Advanced Paints
I have used a few drops of oil to revive a tin of 2 part that was a bit dry ( worked well in a pinch ) and acetone works too
profchris
Established Member
I was wondering, Polyfilla with some PVA mixed in to make it less brittle? Then I read Adam's post.
Might that work? I can't have been the first to have the thought.
