Tyne Cub lathe issue

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Mick p

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You are very lucky to have a Tyme Cub wood lathe donated, it is a very good machine, very well made and extremely strong. Parts and upgrades to take modern head and tail stokes are all readily available. The standard Cub has just a 3/4 inch hollow centre thread, this hole takes a MT1 head stock. The tail Stoke is also MT1 - MT for Morse Taper. The Nova or SuperNova G3 would be a good scroll chuck to use and will come with the correct fittings for a Tyme Cub when you order it. Secondhand chucks are readily available but may have faults. This is a good strong machine, and the headstock rotates for bowl turning. I own such a machine and if yours has been well looked after will outlast many of the latest all singing and dancing machines from far off countries.
Regards
I
To avoid any confusion can we all agree that the standard headstock spindle is

20 mm x 2
yes it is
 

Lons

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20mm is 3/4" . Original spec as this is a vintage machine is pre metric, when we had Pounds, shillings and pennies, even half pennies and thru pence pieces. The thread is also originally quoted in imperial...
regards
A very strange comment to make when to the best of my knowledge metric measurements were introduced in the UK around 1965 and the Tyme Cub lathe came 13 years later in 1978.
 

Seascaper

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To avoid further confusion...

B82D454C-CE09-4D2A-8933-D2FA5685350A.png
 

J-G

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I can now see how you came to proffer inaccurate information @Seascaper !!

It seems that Tyne were somewhat 'lax' with their marketing materials (I assume that is what the image is of) Only one of the dimensions shown on the Lathe Diagram : 750mm = 29.527" : is close to accurate, so to 1 dec.place could be considered 29½" (I wouldn't do so)
 

Mick p

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The thread on a Tyme cub is 20 x 2.0 not 3/4". Mine was a vintage machine and was very definitely so, as I stated on another thread I bought a tap to make my own chucks etc and I still have that.
Lons i’d be interested in the tap if you no longer need it thanks mickp
 

Lons

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I can now see how you came to proffer inaccurate information @Seascaper !!

It seems that Tyne were somewhat 'lax' with their marketing materials (I assume that is what the image is of) Only one of the dimensions shown on the Lathe Diagram : 750mm = 29.527" : is close to accurate, so to 1 dec.place could be considered 29½" (I wouldn't do so)
Looks as if they were trying, unsuccessfully to pander to both metric and imperial buyers. From memory of the few we sold at the time however the price list was slightly different with the standard lathe having a 500mm bed and a 20 x 2.0 headstock thread and the OPTIONAL 3/4" x 16 was a separate I think no cost option. My machine btw was manufactured in 1980, we had sold it and took it back in as a part ex for a larger Record so I aquired it, ;) and before I bought the tap I had the spindle thread checked, I also tried one of our stock record chucks and it wouldn't fit.

Seascaper, my apology for misjudging your comments, it's easy to see why you came to that conclusion, Tyme clearly were a bit amateurish.
 
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Speak to Derek a nice guy to deal with he used to sell them i think
Company Name: Pyatt Woodworking

Phone/Fax No.: 01902 743973

email: [email protected]

Location:

We are located in Tettenhall, north west side of Wolverhampton, just off the A41.

6 miles from M54 junction 3 and 3 miles from M54 junction 2.


Visiting:

Contact should be made prior to visit.​
John, I can assist if you call me on the phone number mentioned above . I’m available seven days a week till 7pm . Derek
 

Paul Hannaby

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I used to have one of these and it was M20 x 2mm the same as on the Tyme little gem lathes (which I also owned).

If it's of any use, I know of a M20 x 2mm ISO backplate for sale which would fit either the old Axminster super precision chuck or Versachuck.
 

okeydokey

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I'm in the process of acquiring a Tyme Cub, haven't seen it yet but its said to be working and in need of a fair amount of TLC.
All of the above info will be useful but does anyone have a manual please?

Edit - subsequently lathe is now with me, the cable looks as if it has been nibbled by little furry things and is unusable until repaired. The square section bed bars are fairly rusty - surface - not deep, whats the best way to clean and make them a bit shiny/more attractive to use. Need to get them smooth so the tool-rest banjo will slide along.

Might have more needs once its up and running.
 
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Mick p

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I'm in the process of acquiring a Tyme Cub, haven't seen it yet but its said to be working and in need of a fair amount of TLC.
All of the above info will be useful but does anyone have a manual please?

Edit - subsequently lathe is now with me, the cable looks as if it has been nibbled by little furry things and is unusable until repaired. The square section bed bars are fairly rusty - surface - not deep, whats the best way to clean and make them a bit shiny/more attractive to use. Need to get them smooth so the tool-rest banjo will slide along.

Might have more needs once its up and
I'm in the process of acquiring a Tyme Cub, haven't seen it yet but its said to be working and in need of a fair amount of TLC.
All of the above info will be useful but does anyone have a manual please?

Edit - subsequently lathe is now with me, the cable looks as if it has been nibbled by little furry things and is unusable until repaired. The square section bed bars are fairly rusty - surface - not deep, whats the best way to clean and make them a bit shiny/more attractive to use. Need to get them smooth so the tool-rest banjo will slide along.

Might have more needs once its up and running.
Hi okey-dokey I’m a Tyme lathe enthusiast I’ve just acquired ttow cubs that im in the process of refurbishing the best way to clean the bedways is to completely strip the lathe down the bedways can then be first cleaned with a wire wheel on a grinder then emery cloth with light oil to a perfect shine then reassembled the lathe checking and servicing all parts .this is my process I’ve used many times . Ware abouts in West Sussex are you im in havant your welcome to come across and have a look
 

Seascaper

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Hello,
To match the original paint this would be Hammerite green, good luck, it is a wonderful machine, and made in the UK. This pi is not my machine, but mine is very similar, I have to fit a similar on off switch to mine. It took my Cub all apart about 15 years ago and did something similar wirebrushed and repainted. I also have a new scroll chuck and a new tailstock centre. Motors is wonderful and smooth and one can use it all day without it overheating.
ED5028E9-68EB-42FF-9213-EC2A17C03686.png
 

okeydokey

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Hi Seascaper
If your lathe looks anything like that picture that well great, mine looks similar to yours except for the rust and peeling paint.
About the paint colour, Ive just looked at the Hammerite page and there seems to be a gaggle of greens and smooth or hammered, if you still have the tin would you give me the details of exactly which one please. Mine still has the original switch and working well.
thanks
okeydokey



.
 

okeydokey

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Hi Mick p
I'm not at home for a few days so work on the lathe has stopped for a few days.
So far I have changed the power cable and removed the original Nova chuck that was well stuck - should it have had a spacer/washer between the chuck and spindle to stop it sticking? and thats it.
The Nova chuck has the funny bent lever but the round rod that is used in conjunction with the bent lever is missing must be just a 6" length of round steel bar (only makes sense if you know what the original Nova chuck looks like.
As I'm away I cant look at the lathe do the bed bars come out fairly straightforwardly - see seascaper comments maybe thats what I should do.
I live in Burgess Hill so about 50 miles to Havant and yes I might well visit if thats ok - daytime is best - are you working or like me retired.
Wonder where you picked up two Cubs to restore as don't grow on trees around here. I had a 50 mile trip each way to collect mine.
cheers
 

Seascaper

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Hi Seascaper
If your lathe looks anything like that picture that well great, mine looks similar to yours except for the rust and peeling paint.
About the paint colour, Ive just looked at the Hammerite page and there seems to be a gaggle of greens and smooth or hammered, if you still have the tin would you give me the details of exactly which one please. Mine still has the original switch and working well.
thanks
okeydokey



.
Hello,
Hammered dark green is the original colour, quite an easy one to get, because it is a thick covering paint you don’t have to remove all the original paint, just degrease with some thinners and paint. One uses thinners not white spirit. My original switch works fine, I am going to fit a more modern push button on off safety switch to the metal plate in front of the motor.
Regards
 

Mick p

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Hi Mick p
I'm not at home for a few days so work on the lathe has stopped for a few days.
So far I have changed the power cable and removed the original Nova chuck that was well stuck - should it have had a spacer/washer between the chuck and spindle to stop it sticking? and thats it.
The Nova chuck has the funny bent lever but the round rod that is used in conjunction with the bent lever is missing must be just a 6" length of round steel bar (only makes sense if you know what the original Nova chuck looks like.
As I'm away I cant look at the lathe do the bed bars come out fairly straightforwardly - see seascaper comments maybe thats what I should do.
I live in Burgess Hill so about 50 miles to Havant and yes I might well visit if thats ok - daytime is best - are you working or like me retired.
Wonder where you picked up two Cubs to restore as don't grow on trees around here. I had a 50 mile trip each way to collect mine.
cheers
Hi the I don’t have a washer behind the Chuck as it’s on and off frequently so no problem I use an old screwdriver through the spindle to lock it to remove the bed bars remove the headstock there’s 2 countersunk Allen bolts to remove and 2 bolts at the opposite end and it’s done I tend to not over refurbish as I like to see the patina and used appearance and normally only respray the motor as that often flake’s and rust’s your welcome to come over I’ve traveled a lot further this week Brighton I consider that local today were off to Minehead for collection and making a weekend of it and next week Hearn bay another weekend away yes I’m retired and loving it.
 

okeydokey

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Thank you Seascaper and mick p.
Mine has a little flaked paint on the motor as well, some came off in a 2" square sheet, the rest of the paint from memory should come up with a bit of wax maybe ultra fine wire wool and a bit of judicious buffing. Perhaps a little clear varnish used with artist paintbrush along the edge of the peeled bits might stick it back/stop further peeling.
I've used the fine or medium Garryflex blocks for this sort of derusting job before, it sort of non aggressively takes the rust off and gives more of a used finish rather than showroom sparkle which suits me best.
Mick which paint/colour do you use and aerosol can or do you have a compressor and spray set up?
 

Mick p

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Thank you Seascaper and mick p.
Mine has a little flaked paint on the motor as well, some came off in a 2" square sheet, the rest of the paint from memory should come up with a bit of wax maybe ultra fine wire wool and a bit of judicious buffing. Perhaps a little clear varnish used with artist paintbrush along the edge of the peeled bits might stick it back/stop further peeling.
I've used the fine or medium Garryflex blocks for this sort of derusting job before, it sort of non aggressively takes the rust off and gives more of a used finish rather than showroom sparkle which suits me best.
Mick which paint/colour do you use and aerosol can or do you have a compressor and spray set up?
I have a compressor bu I normally use rustolum black in a can for the motor it’s much more convenient this is one I’ve just finished.
 

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