Two unanswered questions for a dull afternoon.

[ankledeep]

personally i recon conVEX bevels are "so last year" what about conCAVE bevels as produced fresh off the grindstone.

seriously, unless too severe, is it a problem?

I cant see as the shape of the bevel(or how you achieve it) matters one bit...at the end of the day ...does it cut wood, cleanly and efficiently is all that matters.

 

[Jacob]

.......
I cant see as the shape of the bevel(or how you achieve it) matters one bit

The rounded bevel makes freehand honing much quicker and easier - non of that 'locking elbows, rocking bodies' stuff. Except for that it's pointless as you say.

..at the end of the day ...does it cut wood, cleanly and efficiently is all that matters.

And yes it does.

 

[ankledeep]

okaaayy now lets be sure we are talking the same "bevel here"

assumption.....we are NOT talking about the sharp bit at the very end
if that is so, surely when sharpening, the longer bevel will never touch the stone????? <<<shrugs>>>>

if we are talking about the short sharp bit, having a curve on that would............ hmmmmm???????

strange isnt it....when there is more than one way of achieving your intended purpose (cutting wood) it really does come down to "whatever works for you".....me ...I just grab the chisel and rub it up and down on a suitable stone....I have never been formally taught to sharpen chisels.planes etc.....but I still get an edge that can split atoms.

personally, I recon all these "sharpening systems" are just big business tapping into some sort of collective paranoia about "how" you should do what is actually a quite menial task

 

[Jacob]

okaaayy now lets be sure we are talking the same "bevel here"

assumption.....we are NOT talking about the sharp bit at the very end
if that is so, surely when sharpening, the longer bevel will never touch the stone????? <<<shrugs>>>>

if we are talking about the short sharp bit, having a curve on that would............ hmmmmm???????

Not sure what you mean exactly, but it's the whole bevel from sharp edge to heel. Like Paul Seller's snaps here:

strange isnt it....when there is more than one way of achieving your intended purpose (cutting wood) it really does come down to "whatever works for you".....me ...I just grab the chisel and rub it up and down on a suitable stone....I have never been formally taught to sharpen chisels.planes etc.....but I still get an edge that can split atoms.

That's the way to do it!

personally, I recon all these "sharpening systems" are just big business tapping into some sort of collective paranoia about "how" you should do what is actually a quite menial task

Spot on. Encourage the idea that it's difficult and sell the solutions.
Like quack medicine and dodgy remedies.

I wrote it up here http://www.owdman.co.uk/howto/howto.htm due for revision any day now.

Or for Paul Sellers version google rounded bevel Paul Sellers

 

[Corneel]

Maybe it is just the camera distorting things, but these bevels from Sellers look awfully obtuse?

Further I completely agree with everyone on every sharpening regime. Convex, if it works for you, perfect!

 

[vally bar]

Get one of these job sorted.

 

[Racers]

Hi, vally bar

I used one at work for a badly nicked A2 plane blade and managed to grind it not square, the peripheral speed is higher so you take more metal off at the outside edge.

Pete

 

[vally bar]

They take a bit of getting used to as you don't set the tool square to the wheel but once you have cracked it they are the mutts nuts.
Last used one at tech in the 70s found mine on eBay about 6 months ago.

 

[Racers]

Hi, vally bar

It did remove the metal quickly, and next time I know what to do.
60 grit and a honing guide is quick, and now I have a hand powered grinder that's even quicker.

Pete

 

[woodbrains]

Hi, vally bar

I used one at work for a badly nicked A2 plane blade and managed to grind it not square, the peripheral speed is higher so you take more metal off at the outside edge.

Pete

Hello,

I think this may be the wrong explaination for another problem. You cannot grind the outer edge any faster than the inner edge will let you go, so I think your angled edge problems are more likely to do with inaccuracies with the jigging device. I use one of these machines and the jig is not without it's problems. I think the stem is the probable source as, if it is not perpendicular to the stone's surface (in 2 dimensions) it will add an unwanted cant to the blade holder. I think you can adjust the stem locking assy, which may be a fuss, but once done, should fix the problem permanantly. I had a head wrecker with the machine, which produced hollow grinds across the width of plane irons! (with a flat stone?). It turned out that the tool holder was ever so slightly dished across the width and exaggerated by the locking bolt, which raised the tools edges slightly, making the blade convex temporarily. When the blade was released from the jig and sprung back to flat, hey presto, it was hollow in the middle. A bit of fettling with a file corrected everything.

Mike.

 

[vally bar]

Wowze I just set the chisels up on the gimp and no problem I only use the tool holder for chisels and free hand plane blades because of the flex problem.

 

[woodbrains]

Wowze I just set the chisels up on the gimp and no problem I only use the tool holder for chisels and free hand plane blades because of the flex problem.

Hello,

For freehand grinding, you will, of course, have to compensate for the peripheral speed difference. Maybe this was the problem the other chap had, after all.

Mike.