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CHJ

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Sorry I don't have any record of the build ups, I was too busy trying not to make a mistake on the cutting etc.
I do have a set of bits cut out for a lid similar to the pencil pot sides which may be prepared for glue-up later on today or tomorrow if I can get the gardening tasks completed.
I'll try and get some pictures in the can of the various stages.
 

János

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Hello,

I am not a great fan of segmented turning, anyway, but your "swirly things" almost changed my mind... :wink: That platter would be beautiful in any wood, as the shape is really elegant, and the swirl provided some real visual interest. It was quite a lot of pattern routing or pattern sanding to achieve such an immaculate fit, I think. You have got enviable patience. Your work deserves all my compliments.

Have a nice day,

János
 

CHJ

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Thank you János, I too am not a big fan of the over busy pieces from a visual point of view but I do admire the skill and patience of those that have the ability to assemble them.

The swirl profiles are sanded for fit, the only tooling used being a bandsaw, the lathe and a couple of home made sanding aids.
Solving the challenge of close matching a curved profile is what started the interest, easy with CNC or an overhead profile router but somewhat more interesting to achieve without.
 

CHJ

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Putting a Swirl together for Ryan, well a start anyway, may be a day or two before we get any further.
S1.JPG
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The resultant set ready for the interesting bit.
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The first 2 pieces with profiles sanded smooth, there were some 12.5 mins. between these two shots.
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Note that the sanded joint faces must be perfectly square to a common face.
S7.JPG

The resultant fit after profile sanding
S8.JPG


As these pieces are intended to have a central knob inserted then the segment width is not super critical, unlike the ones for the Space Platter.
 

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Wood spoiler

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I'm really enjoying seeing this theme of work and the various shapes and forms being created. Very inspirational.

May be jumping the gun but .... What glue do you use and how do you clamp it? Hope you can accommodate this in the next thrilling installment.

When I tried my basic fumbling down this avenue I had problems where the grains meet at 90 degrees on the box base. Any pointers on that element?
 

CHJ

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Wood spoiler":2nmzqsud said:
....... What glue do you use and how do you clamp it?........When I tried my basic fumbling down this avenue I had problems where the grains meet at 90 degrees on the box base. Any pointers on that element?
For the majority of my pieces I use Casamite, some smaller ones I use CA.
Have a browse of my web site for Laminated Pencil Pots in the projects area to see how you get the joins perfect with the squeaky rule trick, you will never forget the feel of a perfectly flat surface once you have felt the resultant vibrations on a steel rule.
 

jorgoz

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I'm not a woodturner and don't think i'll ever be a woodturner as such, but have been thinking of making a small treadle lathe somewhere in the future.

The swirl pattern really looks nice and could be used for making a really nice little table top. I'm a total noob when it comes to square sanding and will be making a 12" disk-sander soon for a segmented drum i'm working on. Could you tell a bit more on how you got such nice tight joints in the swirl pattern ? How do you sand the concave surfaces ? Do you use a spindle sander to achieve this. I pressume sandpaper stuck to the convex surface would work too, but take quite a while.
 

CHJ

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jorgoz":wmlzj5l2 said:
.....The swirl pattern really looks nice and could be used for making a really nice little table top.
Very difficult to do by hand in solid wood if you want close joints, would be far more practical and a more stable job done with veneered MDF.

jorgoz":wmlzj5l2 said:
.....How do you sand the concave surfaces ? Do you use a spindle sander to achieve this.
It would be virtually impossible to achieve the concave surface required with a standard spindle sander, no control of the precise radius and the drum would be too flexible.
jorgoz":wmlzj5l2 said:
.....I pressume sandpaper stuck to the convex surface would work too, ....
That's the only way I have come up with so far. I'm working on an alternate
jig method but jigs tend to be rather restricting on component size.
 

johnny.t.

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CHJ":1q27l3nr said:
And something a little different; done basically as a design/process proving excersise, 220mm dia.


Space Platter in Walnut and Ash.


I think I might have had the lathe spinning a bit too fast.
Steady on Chas, didn't anyone tell you segmented stuff was made from little square blocks? :lol: Very clever work and very nice too. Getting the fit between parts deserves a =D>
 

CHJ

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Check fit before glue-up, this set is easier as it's for a lid and central knob will be fitted therefore the segment width dimensions don't have to be precise.
S9.JPG
 

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CHJ

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The associated segment ring for the box body, segments as cut on chop saw, no sanding.
S10.JPG

Base and top ring slices of Oak mounted on scrap screw chuck blocks.
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Truing up the central segment ring.
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It is essential that the end faces of the ring are flat and true across the diameter.

Now the Base.
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Marking the foot ring, mounting socket and the outer diameter of the segment ring.
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Sanded to 240grit and sealed.
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Reversed on socket.
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Face trued up and bonding area checked for flatness.
S20.JPG


Although assembly can be done off the lathe, however if you don't have enough clamps and time and other tasks allow, the glue up can be done on the lathe using the tailstock as the clamp.
S21.JPG
 

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CHJ

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This is a good time to check and true up the inner and reduce wall thickness if required.
S22.JPG

True up joint surface of top ring slice.
S23.JPG

And glue up, again using tailstock to align and apply clamp.
S24.JPG
 

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CHJ

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Clean up the outside and sand to 240 grit.
S25.JPG

Seal to check for sanding or tooling marks.
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Using parting tool remove central waste, (leaving screw chuck block attached means it's ready for use later.)
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Undercutting and blending in inner top edge.
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Reverse on cole jaws and remove chucking recess.
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Box Body finished.
S33.JPG


The whole of this sequence took 35 mins, including changing chucks and taking pictures.
 

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loz

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Pic S29 in reverse Chas ?

Sorry rephrase that - is the lathe in reverse ?
 

Blister

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loz":78mr7see said:
Pic S29 in reverse Chas ?

Sorry rephrase that - is the lathe in reverse ?

That's what I was going to say :p
 

CHJ

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Yes, lathe in reverse, saves me bending over the lathe and gives me better view of what's going on.
 

CHJ

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Now for the lid,
Need to mount the segmented disk on a glue block to give access to rear.
S34.JPG
S35.JPG
S36.JPG


Shape lid to fit Box top recess and drill hole for knob fixing.
S37.JPG

And start top surface shaping.
S38.JPG

Part off from Glue chuck and mount in Cole Jaws to start finishing top surface.
S39.JPG

And finish off, sanding to 240grit.
S40.JPG

And seal to check for sanding and tool marks.
S41.JPG

Now for the knob.
S42.JPG

Form good fit spigot to fit lid rough shape knob.
S44.JPG

And Glue on Lid.
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Clean up inner spigot.
S47.JPG

And remove knob from lathe.
S48.JPG

Remount in Cole Jaws and finish off knob.
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A quick Buff inside and out.
S50.JPG


And there we have it, yet another Box but with a swirly lid this time.
S51.JPG
S52.JPG


175 mm dia. Walnut, Ash and Brown Oak.
 

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CHJ

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The follow on from a hint that a local event needed something for the fund raising.

Very dry hunk of Walnut and with its selection of knots and drying induced fissures as hard as nails to turn.
365 mm diameter, sealed, buffed and finished off with Microcrystalline wax.
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