Trying linseed paint - £141.68 for 1 litre

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OK. So we just bit the bullet and ordered three litres of linseed paint, colour matched to "The Bosses" favourite colour. This is for all our exterior windows and doors which I will be stripping, repairing and finishing in the summer. However, we have a new door to paint asap so I was wondering what the best way to store the paint will be as it is coming in one bloody great 3 L tin and I have read that if stored incorrectly it can skin over on top.
 
Shake tin upside down a few times to seal the lid joint.
Decant enough to use into a jam jar and keep the big tin shut. Always open very carefully so as to not bend the lid and spoil the seal.
If not tight shut it can skin over but it stops at that. Lift the skin off and its OK underneath. No VOCs so it won't dry out like solvent based paints. Very long shelf life even if it skins over.

I did quite a lot of old work but without stripping. It took really well to old paint cleaned down. Seems to stick to anything - did a wrought iron gate - brushed off loose paint and rust without going to a lot of trouble, and painted straight on top.
It's a mega labour saver!
 
This reminds me I need to do the samples ! I ordered a sheet of exterior mdf (not tricoya) so that's one more thing to try it on when the time comes.

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Halo Jones":zzho92be said:
OK. So we just bit the bullet and ordered three litres of linseed paint, colour matched to "The Bosses" favourite colour. This is for all our exterior windows and doors which I will be stripping, repairing and finishing in the summer. However, we have a new door to paint asap so I was wondering what the best way to store the paint will be as it is coming in one bloody great 3 L tin and I have read that if stored incorrectly it can skin over on top.
What brand linseed paint did you get ?

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Halo Jones":tcdm4f1i said:
We ended up going with Oricalcum who seem to be UK suppliers for Ottosson Fargmakeri in Sweden.
I'm yet to try my oricalcum paint but have a good feeling that it might be better than the first lot of paint I tried. Keep us posted.

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Been doing a bit of linseed oil paint on doors and windows this week. By and large its been on top of old paint that was not flaking but had to clean out the rot in some areas and fill before painting.

Its damn good stuff. Even if its not so good as a top coat on old paint as it would be if used on bare wood I think it still pretty bloody good. I now have about 30 windows and doors all the same shade of Allback Sage green and didn't even use a litre of paint and only one coat. And if I just check them once a year for rot or a bit of peeling I'm pretty sure thats going to be a lot easier than repairing flaking external paints. Also in the summer sun it dries in 24 hours

I went back on the gloss to touch up a few internals and I hated it - heavy, gloopy, spreads poorly. Yes the finish is a bit more mirrored but that is its only potential positive. Linseed is a joy to use in comparison - much lighter on the brush.

I'm now going to order some "old white" to do the internals of the rest of the windows on top of the old eggshell thats peeling again. It will only flake off when the underlying paint does but even then touch up will be easier as the linseed paint will last in the pot.

So I'm a mega convert. It is slightly dull shade wise but I actually think its cheaper in terms of labour and coverage.
 
Selwyn":2g8ohixs said:
Been doing a bit of linseed oil paint on doors and windows this week. By and large its been on top of old paint that was not flaking but had to clean out the rot in some areas and fill before painting.

Its damn good stuff. Even if its not so good as a top coat on old paint as it would be if used on bare wood I think it still pretty bloody good. I now have about 30 windows and doors all the same shade of Allback Sage green and didn't even use a litre of paint and only one coat. And if I just check them once a year for rot or a bit of peeling I'm pretty sure thats going to be a lot easier than repairing flaking external paints. Also in the summer sun it dries in 24 hours

I went back on the gloss to touch up a few internals and I hated it - heavy, gloopy, spreads poorly. Yes the finish is a bit more mirrored but that is its only potential positive. Linseed is a joy to use in comparison - much lighter on the brush.

I'm now going to order some "old white" to do the internals of the rest of the windows on top of the old eggshell thats peeling again. It will only flake off when the underlying paint does but even then touch up will be easier as the linseed paint will last in the pot.

So I'm a mega convert. It is slightly dull shade wise but I actually think its cheaper in terms of labour and coverage.
Sounds like a good experience !!! Don't suppose you've got any pictures of the freshly painted windows ?
My blotchy sample window has been sat on a shelf on display in the workshop. You have to get real close to notice the patchyness. Unless you were looking you'd just notice the main colour - far more likely to notice the window rotting away lol !

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I'll get some but I know what you mean by patchiness I don't see it as a problem but that can be areas where the reflection is a bit duller than other patches. I also painted a pvc window to good effect. Probably needs 3 coats for pvc.
 
Has any of the patchyness evened out now it's had a few days to dry ? I'd have never thought of using it on upvc !

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Yeah its not patchy its just a bit "dull" but I like it. Admittedly its sage green not white and may work better with darker colours.

Need to a 3rd coat for pvc but to be honest 2 is fine. I'm going to get some grey and black next and use it on some cast iron downpipes and some metal windows next
 
Sounds good ! A bit dull is much better than rotten isn't it. If you get chance to take a few pictures I'd love to see them.


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Needed to replace a rotten porch post so decided to softwood with linseed paint. No solvents this time so I was quietly confident.
This is how it's looking after the second coat.
a703c2a75ea3b2f577b401fb4d476ffc.jpg

That's really not good enough !! Paint brush hung in linseed oil between coats.
9d8e6030398c5651d05fc455ebff0469.jpg

Perhaps it's just this colour. ........?

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Thanks for the updates Coley. Will never need to use as much as you pros but great to see your findings.
 
What brand are you using?

I've used Oricalcum and Allback and I preferred Allback.

I can live with a bit of blotchy if knowing its better for the wood personally
 
ColeyS1":2lydzowu said:
Needed to replace a rotten porch post so decided to softwood with linseed paint. No solvents this time so I was quietly confident.
This is how it's looking after the second coat.
a703c2a75ea3b2f577b401fb4d476ffc.jpg

That's really not good enough !! Paint brush hung in linseed oil between coats.
9d8e6030398c5651d05fc455ebff0469.jpg

Perhaps it's just this colour. ........?

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I drill a hole through the brush and hang it through a hole in the top of a jam jar or milk bottle with a nail or pin through the hole. You can leave them like this for months and then use the oil itself as a primer. Zero waste!
Normal brushes like the above are better when worn out but you can fake this by giving them a shave with a beard trimmer, into a rounded shape.
 
Bm101":2w7h6923 said:
Thanks for the updates Coley. Will never need to use as much as you pros but great to see your findings.
No worries. I really thought it would have been better this time. I will persevere lol

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Selwyn":1h3mrboj said:
What brand are you using?

I've used Oricalcum and Allback and I preferred Allback.

I can live with a bit of blotchy if knowing its better for the wood personally
This is all back. The only thing left to try is to skip the first coat with the added zinc, perhaps that's causing the issue. The softwood was peppered with knots so I treated them with knotting solution, I don't think that could be the problem as they mention using it for glass rebates......? I could live with a little blotchyness but I'd say this is past that and it's almost two different colours !! Perhaps the final 3rd coat will even it out. It does cover well but I think it would be a limited number of people that would accept the colour differences. Final test with this tin on softwood is zero knotting and zero zinc.

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Jacob":152zul6m said:
ColeyS1":152zul6m said:
Needed to replace a rotten porch post so decided to softwood with linseed paint. No solvents this time so I was quietly confident.
This is how it's looking after the second coat.
a703c2a75ea3b2f577b401fb4d476ffc.jpg

That's really not good enough !! Paint brush hung in linseed oil between coats.
9d8e6030398c5651d05fc455ebff0469.jpg

Perhaps it's just this colour. ........?

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
I drill a hole through the brush and hang it through a hole in the top of a jam jar or milk bottle with a nail or pin through the hole. You can leave them like this for months and then use the oil itself as a primer. Zero waste!
Normal brushes like the above are better when worn out but you can fake this by giving them a shave with a beard trimmer, into a rounded shape.
Thanks Jacob. I need to see that I'm making a tiny bit of progress with the paint colour before drilling a hole in a brush ! Ha. I will not be beaten, I will not give up. I've still got the different brand to try, still got various colours. I need some samples of timber to try various ways of applying it to see if that makes a difference- with zinc, primed with oil, no knotting etc etc.

Roger over on the a different place has had some success using white linseed paint on sapele. Don't think he had any colour issues, but did get a bit caught out handling it a little too soon after painting.

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