Troubleshooting plane.

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1275gt

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It may be an optical illusion from the camera angle, but that looks more than 25° on the primary bevel. If you use an eclipse honing guide, then 38 mm projection is about right for honing.

Cheers
Richard
Thanks for the reply Richard,
I'm using an older original eclipse guide, I believe it was 2 inch projection for 25 and 1¹/² for 30, I may be incorrect as I don't have it in front of me.
 

1275gt

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My tip is to stretch the paper you are laping on tight, otherwise you can get a wave pushed up before and after the plane which takes more off at the ends.

60 grit is the minimum for a seriously out sole.

Pete
I'm using a large piece of float glass larger than the no 4 and attached the sandpaper with some low tack spray adhesive.
 

1275gt

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I'm going to see if I can refine the edge even more so tonight and see if I can get hold of some different timber and report back.
 

JohnPW

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It looks like the sole is concave which is preventing thin shavings. Concave is much worse than convex but at least with concave you can lap it out.

A convex sole needs scrapers/files to flatten.
 

johnnyb

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looking at the photo of the blade bevel it looks a bit blunt ie not enough angle. it may be a trick of the lens though. also the photo of the back of the blade looks a bit ragged. can you shave with the blade? I've seen really rough planes cut fine though. put you pine board on edge retract the blade so it take no cut. begin planing with the plane skewed at 30 odd degrees and gradually advance the blade until you get a cut. tell us what happens BTW.
 

1275gt

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Success.

I followed up with quick 240 grit on the sole across the float glass.

Ditched the diamond stones and used 800 then 1200 wet and dry on the glass and used Mr Charlesworths ruler trick on the back.

Ditched the pine board and picked up some Sapele which I've been saving for my first project which is PAR with a machine finish.

I planned at a 30-45 degree angle to the board and I got wispy shavings, I didn't manage to get full width but it's almost 1am and I'm happy leaving this here. I did get some tearout leaving a slightly rough finish, but I feel with the advice I've had in this thread alone will help my combat it.

Going forward I've realised that my 1200 diamond stone isn't up to scratch and I'm going to need something a lot more refined.

Again thank you all for your replies (I would of still been messing with frog)
 

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AndyT

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Good news. Now that you have got the plane working, can you get fine shavings from the pine board you started with?
 

johnnyb

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I'd suggest that if its planing ok at 30 degrees its probably a problem with the sole. skewing will in effect shorten the plane length. (it also effectively lowers the cutting angle by the shavings going across the face of the blade.)
 

Ttrees

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What's missing maybe is a good lamp for the workshop.
It makes things obvious if you have a reference.
See the light shining light underneath to show the error up.

It will make bad habits like nose diving off the ends with through shavings obvious
quickly
sam_2180-jpg.66432


This is what happens without taking stopped shavings, resulting in a banana that pivots around in the middle when flipped over.
See Charlesworth demonstrating planing straight edges to fix this.

I suggest if your straight edge is not long as the bench, to make a pair of long parallel straight edges,
A pair because you can flip one over and see if both aren't following a curve, flipping one over will double any gap present.

Once you do that, then it might be an option to take a look at the bench or planing board and get it flat, be it planing it or shimming a door whatever makes sense for your bench.

Now plane down the timber where it is touching the straight reference, and don't try and plane into a low spot where the light is shining under.

You could even get a dark crayon and scribble it on the work surface to shine the high spots when the work is rubbed on it.
These are the high spots to remove with the plane, until all the timber is
laying down on the reference without any gaps.

See Charlesworth demonstrating the work pivoting from the ends on another video.

All the best
Tom
 

aebersold

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I’m with Johnyb, from the picture your iron doesn’t appear sharp enough to get the wispy shavings you’re after. The sharpest blade is the meeting point of two polished surfaces. To achieve that, as you have wet and dry and float glass, polish the back of the iron flat finishing with an 8000 grit waterstone or the like, then with your eclipse produce a polished land with 8000 after your 1200. HTH
 

David C

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Glad things are improving.

Just a word of caution, Ruler trick should not be done on anything other than a polishing stone. Say 6.000, 8,000 or 10,000 grit.

Best wishes,
David Charlesworth
 
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