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Triton 1/2" router

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Knot Competent

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I bought one of these routers three months ago, and love it for it's power, smoothness and accuracy, and also for the ability to wind it down into the wood rather than having to plunge. I don't like the noise level, or it's weight when hand-held.

However, this wasn't intended to be a review. I have a problem with the depth stop. There are two thumbwheels which allow adjustment of the depth of cut, and lately they have started self-adjusting up or down during use. A blob of Blu-tak will probably solve the problem, but could easily be dislodged accidentally. Does anyone have a method for preventing them moving during use, but which still allows easy adjustment?

John
 

Knot Competent

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Thanks for the advice DW, I've now registered and done that. I'll let you know if I get a concrete reply.

John
 

CYC

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I don't understand the problem, is the plunge lock loose?
Any picture of what you are talking about?
 

Knot Competent

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On the depth stop turret there are two threaded rods, each has a plastic thumbwheel which you can adjust to control depth of cut, and the depth stop descends onto whichever of the two you've swiveled the turret to engage with it. The plastic thumbwheels have taken to vibrating down the thread slowly but inexorably during use, which means that the depth of cut slowly increases. This is a Bad Thing, and must be stopped at all cost!

Sorry, I'm not knowledgable enough to grab a picture from the Triton website and paste it here.

John
 

Argee

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This is what's being discussed:



The two thumb-wheels give the option of setting two different plunge depths. This is quite an ingenious and simple-to-use feature and I've never had any problems with my router.

However, once you've reached the plunge depth on the first plunge, couldn't you then reset the plunge bar to reference off of the datum stop - it's spring-loaded so I can't see why that wouldn't work - unless I'm missing something (bearing in mind the time and that I've had one hell of a day!).

Ray.
 

Knot Competent

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Nice picture! Yes, that is where my problem is. As you say, it is ingenious and simple to use. However I often cut thirty or more tenons at a time using the Trend M & T jig, and during this time the plastic thumbwheels travel downwards due to the vibration.

If I were to use a locking nut it would make the original simple adjustment into a more complex one. So I'm looking for a simple solution to my problem.

John
 

devonwoody

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To KC

In fact after having my router in the table for a while in use I later found one of those thumbscrews on the workshop floor when cleaning up.

So bluetac is definately a possibility to consider
 

Neil

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John,

Can't you just put small springs under the existing nuts? OK, you would lose a small amount of adjustment, but it would fix the problem and would leave the system as easy to adjust as it is now?

Cheers,
Neil
 

Knot Competent

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One of the things I love about this forum is that it brings together so many people of both sexes from a wide variety of experience and training, all prepared to contribute freely for the common good. So when I posted this problem of mine, I was optimistic that a solution was out there, and would be offered in a way that wouldn't make me feel what my son delights in calling a "dumb-ass", his expression for anyone less computer-literate than him.

Neil, thank you for a simple solution to the problem. I'm sure that will be the answer.

Regards, John
 

Neil

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John,

You are more than welcome - its a nice change for me to help on this forum rather than be helped! :D

Cheers,
Neil
 

CHJ

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John,
If the spring idea still does not hold it try bonding a fibre washer to one or both sides of the nut (smaller bore size) and let the stud cut itself a tight fit, like a nylock nut principle.
Also try a star washer against the nut in conjunction with the spring.
 

Argee

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John,

Let me re-iterate the second part of my reply, expanding it into a step-by-step:

Set plunge depth as required in the normal way.
Plunge to the set depth, then lock with the thumb-operated cam lock.
Release the plunge bar lock.
Turn the turret so that the solid datum bar is engaged.
Set the plunge bar to reference the datum bar, then lock the plunge bar at this new setting.
Release the cam lock.
Now plunge to the new setting.

As the datum bar has no adjustment wheel anyway, I don't see how that could fail. I'll try it when I next get the chance, but I think it's the way to go if all your tenons (or whatever) are at the same depth. :)

Ray.
 

Knot Competent

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Yep, that works Ray, and thank you for taking the trouble to expain in more detail. I've just been back to the workshop and tried it out. It's like so many of these things, why didn't I think of that? That should ensure that all my tenons come out exactly the same length.

Thanks again. John
 

Argee

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John,

You're most welcome and thanks for raising the problem in the first place.

The Triton router is such a good tool, yet it doesn't get much exposure. I can't tell you how impressed I am with mine - but being forewarned of a possible problem allows me to keep an eye on it, whereas without your post I wouldn't necessarily have even considered it.

By the way, the only thing I've had vibrate loose is the plunge depth bar locking knob when not locked - and that's got a spring on it! If I've got a lot of routing to do and don't require the plunge bar, I retract it and lock it - problem solved. :)

Ray.
 

Jokerman

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Have you tried putting a second nut on the threaded rod with a spring washer between them. I did this with a little bosch 500 which I made a fine depth adjuster for and it compensated for the vibration from the machine. Can't see why it shouldn't work with a bigger more powerful machine.
Cheers, M.
hh.
 

CYC

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Ray, rest assured the Triton IS getting some exposure. I have recently been looking into the router table thinking I was going to have to spend a fortune as I really wanted a router lift. With more research and the good info from this forum I have decided the Triton is the way.

It's now just a case of gathering the money to buy this router along with a plate and the incra. No point getting one without the others :wink:
 

CHJ

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Knot Competent
I have just spoken to someone else suffering with 'creeping adjustment nuts' and he solved it by placing a couple of electrical Rubber Grommets on the threads (the type used when passing cables through metal sheet)

unfortunately they just came out of his 'bits' box so could not recommend a source.
 
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