Trend WRT router table

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Hello. I'm relatively new to the group and at 71 I'm rediscovering the love of woodworking that I had 50 years ago. After a lot of effort, I converted half of my garage to a workshop over the lockdown period. Although I've pottered around for the last year or two, I'm now considering a few larger projects. I've built up a fairly good stock of hand and power tools over the years but I would like to add a router table to my workshop. After extensive research, I've decided to go with the Trend WRT. The only problem is that the router that I will be fitting to the table is a SIP 01478 1500W. Now, drilling the plate to accept the router is not an issue, and I intend to negate the start button/lock so that I can use the NVR switch that comes with the table. What does concern me is how I will be able to adjust the cutter height without having to scrabble around on the floor. I would welcome any advice on this subject.
 

Spectric

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Hi and welcome to the forums. The subject of router tables is very common around here with much experience being shared and a search will turn up a lot of info. I think @MikeK may have had some experience with the Trend table, it rings some bells.

The one thing you really need is the ability to adjust the height without crawling on the floor and this can really only be done with a system using table top adjustment and is something that will make your router table experience more enjoyable. One of the common routers used is the Triton TRA001 which allows fast height adjustment with a knob and fine adjustment using the handle from above. The Trend T11 is another option which you may find a deal on as the T10 and T11 are being replaced by the T12 and T14, a 110 volt T10 (Dewalt 625 in grey) can be picked up for £225! The T12 will cost you £420 but not for a table. Then there is the Dewalt 625 but that needs the height adjuster fitting and then at the other end of the spectrum are the products from Jessem, Woodpecker and Incra but at a price. Bear in mind that the insert plate can be either metric or imperial with imperial being my choice due to the range available.

Do you have any idea on budget or what sort of things you expect from a router table, budgets go from sensible to extreme depending what you want and of course there are many good home made tables.
 

MikeK

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The Trend router table is one that I missed on my expensive journey. I struggled with the Triton table and router before making several detours to my current table.

My advice is to find a table and router that are made to work together, rather than modifying either to fit. If you will be using the router as a hand held tool in addition to the table, it could become tiresome removing and installing the router motor as required. Also, I think a 1500W motor might be a bit underpowered for a router table.

I'm not recommending this vendor, but using it as an example of a package deal with the Trend WRT and the 2000W T11 for £750. There might be other vendors with similar packages now that the T11 has been replaced by the T14.

 
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The Trend router table is one that I missed on my expensive journey. I struggled with the Triton table and router before making several detours to my current table.

My advice is to find a table and router that are made to work together, rather than modifying either to fit. If you will be using the router as a hand held tool in addition to the table, it could become tiresome removing and installing the router motor as required. Also, I think a 1500W motor might be a bit underpowered for a router table.

I'm not recommending this vendor, but using it as an example of a package deal with the Trend WRT and the 2000W T11 for £750. There might be other vendors with similar packages now that the T11 has been replaced by the T14.

Thanks for that, Mike. The point is that I already have 2 SIP 1500 routers (I won't go into how I ended up with 2!). I've been quite happy using them as hand-held tools but can see that I will be able to achieve more (both accurately and comfortably) using a table.

My plan was to mount one in a table and use the other as I currently do. I really didn't want to splash out on yet another router when there is nothing wrong with the one's that I have.

I guess that I'll just have to construct something that will do the job myself. I seem to remember seeing a post somewhere, recently, where somebody was using a small scissor jack for a similar purpose.
 
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Hi and welcome to the forums. The subject of router tables is very common around here with much experience being shared and a search will turn up a lot of info. I think @MikeK may have had some experience with the Trend table, it rings some bells.

The one thing you really need is the ability to adjust the height without crawling on the floor and this can really only be done with a system using table top adjustment and is something that will make your router table experience more enjoyable. One of the common routers used is the Triton TRA001 which allows fast height adjustment with a knob and fine adjustment using the handle from above. The Trend T11 is another option which you may find a deal on as the T10 and T11 are being replaced by the T12 and T14, a 110 volt T10 (Dewalt 625 in grey) can be picked up for £225! The T12 will cost you £420 but not for a table. Then there is the Dewalt 625 but that needs the height adjuster fitting and then at the other end of the spectrum are the products from Jessem, Woodpecker and Incra but at a price. Bear in mind that the insert plate can be either metric or imperial with imperial being my choice due to the range available.

Do you have any idea on budget or what sort of things you expect from a router table, budgets go from sensible to extreme depending what you want and of course there are many good home made tables.
Thank you for the welcome.

As I already have a router (2 actually) that I'm happy with, I'm not too keen on buying another. With hindsight, I realise that I should have thought about the possibility of acquiring a table in the future!

If that's the only way that I can achieve a working router/table set-up then I'll have to bite the bullet and buy a third - but I must consider alternatives first.
 

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The only alternative I can think of that would allow the use of one of your routers and give easy height adjustment from above the table would be the Jessem prestige lift but that is an imperial sized plate. I am using one with a Triton TRA001 mounted on it, a really well engineered lift and very precise but you need to ensure the table you have is imperial and not metric. The Jessem will state metric but that is for the height increments.

JessEm Rout-R-Lift Prestige (Metric)
 
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The only alternative I can think of that would allow the use of one of your routers and give easy height adjustment from above the table would be the Jessem prestige lift but that is an imperial sized plate. I am using one with a Triton TRA001 mounted on it, a really well engineered lift and very precise but you need to ensure the table you have is imperial and not metric. The Jessem will state metric but that is for the height increments.

JessEm Rout-R-Lift Prestige (Metric)
Thank you for that. I'm even more undecided now!! As far as I can see, the plate size of the Jessem is 298 x 235mm and the plate on the WRT table is 306 x 229mm. So, as an engineer, I think that I could make that work. However, I remember that I got my SIP on special offer and it only cost me £60 (and, as it turned out, I got two for the price of one). This Jessem lift would cost me five times that!! So I'm leaning more and more towards your and Mike's first suggestion of getting a Trend router with the WRT table. It's only money, after all! Thank you both for making my mind up for me.
 

MikeK

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It's only money, after all! Thank you both for making my mind up for me.

I've never seen a trailer hitch on a hearse, or as the Germans say, Das letzte Hemd hat keine Taschen (the last shirt doesn't have any pockets).

Seriously, it's very easy to spend someone else's money, and as you can see now, you are spoiled for choice when it comes to router tables. Before you make up your mind, search the UKW for some of the member's router table projects. If I can find the link, I'll include it here, but one member made a great routing station by fitting a router plate into a section of spare kitchen counter top.

Update...

 
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Sachakins

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Hello. I'm relatively new to the group and at 71 I'm rediscovering the love of woodworking that I had 50 years ago. After a lot of effort, I converted half of my garage to a workshop over the lockdown period. Although I've pottered around for the last year or two, I'm now considering a few larger projects. I've built up a fairly good stock of hand and power tools over the years but I would like to add a router table to my workshop. After extensive research, I've decided to go with the Trend WRT. The only problem is that the router that I will be fitting to the table is a SIP 01478 1500W. Now, drilling the plate to accept the router is not an issue, and I intend to negate the start button/lock so that I can use the NVR switch that comes with the table. What does concern me is how I will be able to adjust the cutter height without having to scrabble around on the floor. I would welcome any advice on this subject.
There's a Rutlands router table in for sale section today.
 

Seascaper

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Hello,
Take at look at the smaller Trend CRT router table, this one will sit on your bench and you will have better access underneath to make adjustments. I considered the WRT but this one takes up less space and the top is very similar. I have no regrets and using it higher up I find easier to use and one can simply tilt it get underneath. It is also cheaper but still great quality and good kit.
Regards
 

TomGW

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I have two hand held routers (Elu & Ryobi) and recently bought this:

So far I’m very impressed with it, considering the very modest cost. I have a small table for the Ryobi but wanted to try a more permanent table setup for an ongoing project. The intention was to use it for this project and let it go again. However, I can see it staying for the longer term.
 
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Hello,
Take at look at the smaller Trend CRT router table, this one will sit on your bench and you will have better access underneath to make adjustments. I considered the WRT but this one takes up less space and the top is very similar. I have no regrets and using it higher up I find easier to use and one can simply tilt it get underneath. It is also cheaper but still great quality and good kit.
Regards
Thank you for that suggestion. I was seriously considering the CRT, as the table top, although smaller than the WRT, is still a reasonable size and it still has all the attributes of the larger WRT: but then I saw some advice that the ideal working height for a router table should be 850 - 900mm and that one might find a bench-mounted table too high.

However, the more I think about the pros and cons, the more I think that the added height might be an advantage - particularly from the point of view of cutter height adjustment. Besides which, if I mounted the CRT on a permanent firm base, I would then have the option of using it on any one of three benches, one of which has variable heights.

So, I think that I may have made my mind up! The only problem is that, having previously plumped for the floor-standing WRT, I have already managed to shuffle my shelves and tools around to make a space for it in the workshop. That will now be a wasted space - unless of course I buy a table saw to fill it.....

Thanks to you all for the suggestions.
 

Spectric

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fitting a router plate into a section of spare kitchen counter top.
If you go down that route then I have an insert plate in the for sale area For Sale - Kreg router plate and inserts

The Kreg plate only requires a cut out in the top and not a steped one so easier to make. I would go for a floor standing model unless I was building the router into my workbench, having this then maybe easier in the future if you decide to use another top.

As far as I can see, the plate size of the Jessem is 298 x 235mm and the plate on the WRT table is 306 x 229mm.
That means the WRT is a metric insert plate wheras the Jessem being Canadian is imperial.
 

NewbieRaf

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I have the WRT floor standing table hooked up to my dewalt 1/2 router. I love it even though my “workshop” is half of my single cat garage. It came with the plate which fit the dewalt no issues but the only issue is table top depth adjustment. I bought the separate handle but for the lift of me can’t work out how to get the depth adjustment from the table top.

Hope this helps
 

MikeJhn

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That would be a bit too restrictive with a maximum cutter of 22mm but thank you anyway.
How did you come to that conclusion, my Lumberjack version can take all I throw at it, think about that version in post 11 built in motor, lift and speed control on the front, can't get much more convenient than that and at £175.00 you can't go wrong.
 
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How did you come to that conclusion, my Lumberjack version can take all I throw at it, think about that version in post 11 built in motor, lift and speed control on the front, can't get much more convenient than that and at £175.00 you can't go wrong.
I came to that conclusion because the Rutland table for sale has a maximum cutter diameter of 22mm and some of my cutters exceed that.
 

MikeJhn

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I came to that conclusion because the Rutland table for sale has a maximum cutter diameter of 22mm and some of my cutters exceed that.
That is only 11mm radius, something wrong there with the description, I have used a panel raising bit in my Lumberjack version that is way over that, the insert size can be limiting, but raising the bit up through the insert soon sorts that.

Can't find anything on the Rutlands site that says max bit size is.........
 
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That is only 11mm radius, something wrong there with the description, I have used a panel raising bit in my Lumberjack version that is way over that, the insert size can be limiting, but raising the bit up through the insert soon sorts that.

Can't find anything on the Rutlands site that says max bit size is.........
No, but one of the images attached to the sale notice shows a label with that info. But you're right, you can insert the bit above the insert. I hadn't considered that!
 
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